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Old 08-29-2005, 02:16 PM   #271
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Has anybody used the 3800's in 12th scale on-road? And What was the out come on the performance wise?
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Old 08-29-2005, 03:10 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
PUlsar comp will do a fine job. New batteries will have a far greater impact on laptimes than a Charger ever could. It might get your packs a IB's a bit warm-sp keep an eye on them. ONce they hit 120 or 130 deg-shut it off and race it.

ON the deadshorting-everyone has to understand it comes at some risk to those who dont take precautions and deadshort batteries in the correct way-which is the ONLY WAY. Does it increase the performance of a pack? 100% you bet it does. But is it worth it-in some ways no. Forget running, discharging and putting your pack away.

Now you have to unsolder the deadshort bar-let rest for 20 to 30 minutes, set long lockout on charger and/or change charge profile drastically, charge, watch for false peaks, race, discharge, tray for 45 min. to 2 hours depending on tray, resolder the deadshort bar. Is it worth it???? YOu be the judge!! Just be sure you know what your getting into. I can back this up with info off my T35, deadshorting loses 20 to 30 sec of runtime and adds about 0.012 voltage or more. Also-a deadshorted battery is still an a-main capable pack long into its life-whereas a non-deadshort batteries voltage and runtime both continue to drop and drop and drop and ir rise.

Ray


Could not have said it better myself.


Also to note in the Promatch comment, the idea is to solder the wire while the pack is still in the tray ( 0 volts) it's common knowledge that the pack if left to sit will build voltage.. the idea is to DS it while @ 0 volts under a slight load from the tray.

Some of the newer trays ( Integy) will DS each cell rather then the full pack for people that wish to do each cell instead of the full pack.

GFX's and race results don't lie.. DS'ing works, just as Ray said there is extra work involved and you need to be prepared to do it to see the results.


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Old 08-29-2005, 07:37 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Has anybody used the 3800's in 12th scale on-road? And What was the out come on the performance wise?
yes-so far so good. I have found gearing a tooth less than a GP3300 is good. I have run only GP3300 and IB3800 and the IB;s are faster. I have NOT tried new batch 3600's or GP3700 though-sorry.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:26 PM   #274
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Wayne,

How are things north of the border? You guys still racing at Cleveland? Let me know where else so maybe I'll bump into you in the near future. I think I owe you about 5-16 beers

Say hi to Scott too
Greg
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:43 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Has anybody used the 3800's in 12th scale on-road? And What was the out come on the performance wise?
5 of us have been running them for 2 months now. some of us run the same packs twice a week. they make killer run time. the only complaint i have heard is that they seem very flat the last 2 min of a 8 min race. that hasn't bothered me because i don't dump. i have been able to run 2-3 teeth higher than i did with 3300's

i use a Novak Mil-pro at 4.5a charge using the NIMH program. don't know what novak uses for the threshold/cutoff (you can't change it) but
the packs have never false peaked or get hot as i have read in other threads.

the other racers use the LRP Pulsar Comp, only one racer has the new Orion Advantage charger

the guys running GP3700's are also having no problem completing the 8 min races, they seem to be just as fast at the 6-8 min mark. which seems odd to me (that's why i got some to try) since their packs show 444 to 460 seconds on the stickers and the IBs show 480 to 510 seconds both at 30amp discharges. 12th scales never come close to draining at that rate. a 40sec difference in packs should almost equate to 120 more seconds in a 12th car.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:47 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
5 of us have been running them for 2 months now. some of us run the same packs twice a week. they make killer run time. the only complaint i have heard is that they seem very flat the last 2 min of a 8 min race. that hasn't bothered me because i don't dump.
As Danny has suggested to me-try gearing down a tooth. The lower ir an higher voltage of the IB cell heats up motors more. In other words-more juice is getting to the brushes and heating up the motor. Gearing down doesnt hurt you as you have voltage to give you rip and top speed.

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Old 08-29-2005, 08:57 PM   #277
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none of us have had any problems with the motors getting hot. we started running the same gearing we ran when we ran 3300's and have been experimenting from there.
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:15 PM   #278
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I really don't see why you should gear up. Keep the same gear or drop. Extra power/voltage equals to more rpm so gearing up shouldn't be needed.

The motor tuners will figure out how to use the extra power provided by the cells.
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:34 PM   #279
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fast-ho-cars- your problem might be that you are charging on the NiMH profile. That profile was not intended for NiMH race cells. It was included simply for rx and tx packs. There really isn't a NiCD or NiMH profile in normal mode because all of the settings are adjustable. You just need to start chargin at 6A and 4mv/cell delta peak setting. This will give you a 16mv or .016v overall peak detect.

On the above quote taken from Pro Match's website- I think a lot of Jeff and I feel he produces great packs, but in this case he as mostly wrong. I say mostly b/c you could argue that if a cell can regenerate power then it must have energy left in it. Yet, after bringing a pack down to 0V, you solder a piece of wire (I use solder, cut it a little too long and quickly let it melt to the posts- this is the safest method b/c the solder will melt and break the connection if there's a problem) then the wire would get hot or warm, or even if there were a small amount of energy flow you could connect one end of your DS wire and use a DVOM to test the mA from the opposite post to the wire (he states the current is flowing backwards). In all actuality, the cells only regenerate voltage at rest. And the amount of wattage regenerated is minimal at best. Say given cell starts to show .4V but if you put a 1A load on it the voltage is gone in less than a second, so V*A=W (.4*1=.4)- that's >.4 watts- practically nothing. The human body has more wattage stored in it than that.
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Old 08-30-2005, 03:28 AM   #280
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Wahooo , my buddy brought me three packs SMC IB3800 from Hong Kong, here is the sample data :

Pack #1 : 419 second - 1.175V - 1.494 Peak Voltage
Pack #2 : 417 second - 1.175V - 1.504 PV
Pack #3 : 420 second - 1.176V - 1.499 PV

I'm ready !!!!
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:16 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Wahooo , my buddy brought me three packs SMC IB3800 from Hong Kong, here is the sample data :

Pack #1 : 419 second - 1.175V - 1.494 Peak Voltage
Pack #2 : 417 second - 1.175V - 1.504 PV
Pack #3 : 420 second - 1.176V - 1.499 PV

I'm ready !!!!
those numbers are defo wrong for ib3800.
ive got longer runtimes and voltage on my gp3300.
on my lrp ib 3600 ive got 512 runtime and 1.2+ for average numbers.
this si at 30amps true value.constant 30amp discharge]
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:37 AM   #282
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HI,
i got IB3800's and im happy with them. I just i want to know what methods are needed to keep batteries in good condition when leaving them for over a week or long periods of time?
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:40 AM   #283
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HI,
i got IB3800's and im happy with them. I just i want to know what methods are needed to keep batteries in good condition when leaving them for over a week or long periods of time?
if you dont want to deadshort,then after your race discharge them down to .9v per ceell then leave them.
when you race next take them down to .9v again then charge them as usaul
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:22 AM   #284
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whats a good discharger to use with these batteries?
im thinking a smart tray?
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:44 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IN10CT
whats a good discharger to use with these batteries?
im thinking a smart tray?
use a high amp discharger then use the smart tray to take them to .9v cut off.
if not just use anyone with .9v cut off.
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