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Old 11-03-2003, 10:40 AM   #961
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Originally posted by Ooj
I never really had any problems with the f103. It is still by far my favourite car ever. The only things I ever broke were front arms and rear wings. I have a completely hopped up car with 3mm carbon fibre decks. I even had a kid acccidentally ride over the chassis on a bike by accident and nothing was broken except the body. Gears and spurs were the only items that needed to be replaced for wear but that is expected in any car.

I have been looking closely at the FDR 5.88 or 7.15 and am wondering why i keep hearing of burnt up monster stocks? Even though the FDR is the same or a bit higher as in a TC, the rollout is not the same as a TC because of the smaller tyres. So would I be correct in saying that heat is an issue in any motor because of the airflow? Also is the drivetrain really that inefficient?
The monsters will burn up if you use the high speed gear set. The stock gearing is near perfect for the applications here in the states, track dependent of course. True, heat and heat dissipation is a huge factor, especially in a plastic chassis. Some people have tried fans to help with cooling, but the drawback is the drain of power from the batteries (less power to the motor) plays a significant role in stock racing, even 19T or 23T.
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Old 11-03-2003, 03:13 PM   #962
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So, would loose front and rear diffs make the car unload at speed I tightened both up today and reworked the shocks a bit. How long are you guys running the rear turnbuckles and shocks?
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Old 11-03-2003, 03:25 PM   #963
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
So, would loose front and rear diffs make the car unload at speed I tightened both up today and reworked the shocks a bit. How long are you guys running the rear turnbuckles and shocks?
How loose or tight the front and/or rear diffs are doesn't have alot to do with loading and unloading of the car. Just so long as the diffs aren't so loose that the diff gear spins between the diff halves. True, there is some loading effects due to the universals rotating at its efficient angle, but how fast or slow the loading or unloading occurs is dependent on the shocks.
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Old 11-03-2003, 04:09 PM   #964
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Totally correct RCInfinity. The idea of an adjustable ball diff is that you use it to control how well the car will turn (loose for more turning) and to some extent, how much power is going to be applied initially on acceleration. However, It is much better to use you esc and trigger skill to control acceleration rather than the diff because if you let it slip too much you will melt the outdrive to the diff plates. I have seen 2 novices do it because they made their diff too loose and its not a pretty sight........an entire diff assembly is destroyed!!

When building a diff, it should be only loose enough at its extreme that when you hold down both outdrives and try to turn the diff gear, it will only slightly move under heavy force. If after that you feel the diff action is still too tight, it means you havent packed enough grease into the thrust bearing..... the secrect is to pack the thrust bearing with grease and use minimal amounts on the diff balls and diff plates.
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:40 PM   #965
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No, it was just my stupidity. I built it and never readjusted it once it was run in. Like I said, it was about 1.5 turns too loose on each end of the car. It was the first night I ran the car was running 2 classes. With only 7 heats and no breaks between rounds, maintence was put on the back burner. I suspected the front diff after the main, because my 04 unloads the same way when the diff was too loose as well. It also explained why the car felt like it didn't have any punch out of the hole. Tomorrow I am heading to the track much earlier, so I should be able to try a lot more things.
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:42 PM   #966
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Oh, Neil, I meant my question about the shock and turnbuckle length was unrelated to the diff thing. I was just curious.
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Old 11-03-2003, 08:56 PM   #967
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Oh, Neil, I meant my question about the shock and turnbuckle length was unrelated to the diff thing. I was just curious.
The shock end is screwed all the down until the shock shaft cannot screw further. The pushrod is adjusted for ride height. I run about 5mm ride height.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:13 AM   #968
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Heads up for people who want to install the new re-enforced arms!!!!

If you have the titamium bent bump steering arms it will take you
a little time to get the front gear case installed....
I tried to go it with the bump arms attached to the steering arm and then after the gearbox installed.... No easy task.....

It took me about 15 minutes to get everything just right to it
installed..... Next time I'm gonna remove the upper deck....
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:10 AM   #969
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I didn't have problems mounting my set. The play was the factor. It's almost like the balls were too small.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:21 AM   #970
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Neil, are we good to go tomorrow for F1RL at TA?
It's been so quiet lately!
I wanna drive in the rain.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:21 AM   #971
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even though those new reinforced arms are beefier... very dissappointed in the material choose... it's just more plastic to break... I was hoping for arms similar to the Cross Fireforce arms with the plastic/fiberglass combo... Can't complain too much...at least it's better than the stock arms... do hope they come out with new upper arms as well...
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:26 AM   #972
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Quote:
Originally posted by izzyracer
Neil, are we good to go tomorrow for F1RL at TA?
It's been so quiet lately!
I wanna drive in the rain.
Yea, I'll be there Izzy. Hopefully the threat of rain goes away. But damp track was fun to race in.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:27 AM   #973
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
even though those new reinforced arms are beefier... very dissappointed in the material choose... it's just more plastic to break... I was hoping for arms similar to the Cross Fireforce arms with the plastic/fiberglass combo... Can't complain too much...at least it's better than the stock arms... do hope they come out with new upper arms as well...
Yea, they are really beefy. I like them if you can get the play out. I definitely feel more comfortable if the car gets in a crash.
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:29 AM   #974
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCInfinity
Yea, they are really beefy. I like them if you can get the play out. I definitely feel more comfortable if the car gets in a crash.
Aren't the arms made of Carbon Reinforced Plastic? Like the Ta04-R Tub Chassis!
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:34 AM   #975
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I have no idea. All I know is it is more rigid and holds it shape. Unlike the stock arms where breathing on it will cause it to bend.
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