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Old 10-25-2003, 11:29 AM   #916
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Well, I just finished getting my (god, I can't believe I did it) F201 ready to run, and this thing has more slop then a Mini! I threw it on my Integy setup systey, and toe-in changes 1-3 degrees from when you slide the gauge from one side to the other. A couple of things that are really annoying about this car too:

Why did they have to put the antenna on the wrong side of the car? After putting a body on an F103 for 7+years, they go and screw me up everytime I go to put this body on.

This thing is louder then a TA03/TL01 car! Is that normal? I have the lightweight gears coming, I hope this will quiet the car down.

Do you guys change the length of the control rods to alter rideheight more precisely then just using preload clips?

This is an old oval trick, but has anyone tried using rubberbands between the the turnbuckle ball studs to remove slop?

Sigh, I can't believe I have an open wheel sedan. Hell, if Steevie W can run one
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Old 10-25-2003, 12:12 PM   #917
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Good job Gary, welcome to the world of F201 where the settings are never the same twice.
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Old 10-25-2003, 12:55 PM   #918
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Yeah, I've found that to definately be the case.

Here's a better pic then the first one, with the new magazine decals on the sidepod and wing.
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Old 10-25-2003, 03:30 PM   #919
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Gary,

The pushrods are not for adjusting ride heights, they are for droop settings. I usually measure all the shocks out to be the same, and before putting them on the car, measure the push rod to the desire droop that I want for my car. Then I put on the shocks and adjust the ride height with preload spacers. It might be tricky to get the right pre-load/ride height you want because the preload spacers are a bit thick. One trick I found out is that the outdrive retaining rings (the aluminum rings that goes on the light weight outdrives for the F201) will fit over the shock bodies as a pre-load spacers, and these are about half the thickness of the thiness one that is included in the kit. Give that a try

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Old 10-25-2003, 05:51 PM   #920
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But if you remove droop through the pushrods, it can reduce ride height to an extent, and the same thing goes for increasing the lenght to add droop. At least, that what it's looked like on the setup board for me
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Old 10-26-2003, 09:16 PM   #921
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guys im calling for a bit of first hand experience here:

for the Tamiya worlds in a few weeks time, F1 are allowed to run 2400 nicads (part 55074), or Sanyo 3300 HV (part 55084)

in your experiences which would perform better with the sportstuned 540...

Im leaning towards the HV..as the voltage may stay higher longer...whereas the Nicad may peak with higher, but rapidly drop off during the race.

I need everyones opinions asap, as I have to order them today.....
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Old 10-26-2003, 10:37 PM   #922
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since thewy are not matched packs I would say go with the 3000's since they should have a higher voltage longer but they do weight more
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Old 10-26-2003, 10:39 PM   #923
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Hi Guys, I'll be getting an F201 in a trade in a few days (trading my dusty Micro for it). Anyway, was wondering what upgrade you all would suggest first? I'm thinkin chassis from 3 Racing. Then what?

Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:25 AM   #924
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JitsuGuy,
I'd say 1st upgrade is competion tyres. then high speed gear set (unless you have the williams), alloy motor mount (unless you're buying the 3-R chassis) then alloy shocks, 5th the lightwieght counter gears and then the 3 Racing Carbon Fibre Chassis.

You can get alot of information (and parts) forom Formula1-rc.com
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:55 AM   #925
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Quote:
Originally posted by JitsuGuy
Hi Guys, I'll be getting an F201 in a trade in a few days (trading my dusty Micro for it). Anyway, was wondering what upgrade you all would suggest first? I'm thinkin chassis from 3 Racing. Then what?

Thanks!
J
Well the 3Racing chassis is a major upgrade. If you are looking to upgrade but not spend alot, then maybe tires, and drivetrain components. And get extra lower A arms.
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Old 10-27-2003, 12:11 PM   #926
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On F201 in general...
THe new re-enforced arms are kick-ass great. No more stablizer bar to limit the fron end set-up. It can take a hit and keep on going and takes some of the flexible arm ( as in bent but not broken upper arms). The 3 braces that come with the kit make the F201 really hug the corners while carrying the speed at the same time. A little more camber is needed but for the $$ ( less that $10) it is worth that as many of use learned the hard way replacing the "old" arms and throowing away the rest of the tree parts.
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Old 10-27-2003, 10:51 PM   #927
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Check with your chaperone King-G, but in the past you were given these packs to use, but you weren't limited to these packs. Just one of the many things done to give the locals an advantage at these races....

Well, my 201 is almost ready to go. The Arms are backordered through the LHS, so going to take my chances with the kit arms. All I need now is to rebuild the front diff and install the low-friction counter gears, and the car should be pretty dialed. God, an open wheeled sedan.....sigh
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:14 PM   #928
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F201 is so much fun that it should get more popular in the next few years. Hopefully.
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:23 PM   #929
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
But if you remove droop through the pushrods, it can reduce ride height to an extent, and the same thing goes for increasing the lenght to add droop. At least, that what it's looked like on the setup board for me
Yes, then you've gone waaay too far with removing droop (the same goes with touring car) The two does affect one another, but the bottom line is you don't want different length pushrods left and right.

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Old 10-27-2003, 11:26 PM   #930
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Some people use o-rings in the shocks to limit droop.
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