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Old 01-14-2003, 11:39 AM   #316
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Gemballa: Yes, I've seen the pictures, very nice; though I won't be affording anything new for a while. I'll just need to stay content with my regular WRX.

On topic stuff:

For now I'm planning on running the kit black can motor, until I get the feel of the car and driving again, but I plan on upgrading pretty quickly. I've gathered that a lot of people feel a 19T spec motor is perfect for the stock gearing of the car. With that in mind, I've been looking at picking up a Chameleon 2 Pro, which seems to be the most popular spec right now. However, for the same price (online), I can get a 19T triple Team Orion Orbital Pro, which is their top-end machine wound modified motor; the same as their Core modifieds except for the armature. This at least sounds like it may be a better motor, and also allows me the possibility of messing with the timing (though I'd probably do more harm than good w/ my current level of knowledge in that area).

Will a 19T modified machince wound motor have similar performance to a 19T spec motor? i.e. are they comparable because of the same wind number?

I realize that the Orion motor wouldn't meet spec-class rules, but considering that I think I'm the only person within a 100 mile area with an F201, I don't see that being a big problem.
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Old 01-14-2003, 11:41 AM   #317
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19T spec motor timing is fixed. other machine wind mods have adjustable timing.
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Old 01-15-2003, 10:34 AM   #318
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Another couple of questions from me to those who've built the kit:

Last night I finally completed the drivetrain on the chassis, and I have some concern about the amount of friction that seems to be present. Nothing seems to be binding, but there's still a surprising (to me) amount of resistance when I turn the spur gear. I'm most used to direct-drive 2WD cars though, so maybe this is just a fact of 4wd systems? I'm used to a chasis which will rool freely if pushed on a flat surface with no motor installed, I'm pretty sure this car won't do that, though I haven't mounted the shocks or wheels yet to try, and the motor's already installed and looks to be a pain to remove.

I didn't blow the grease out of all the bearings, as I'd rather have lubrication and durability over sheer speed, but I didn't expect this much resistance in the end. Will things "break in" as I run the car and loosen up a bit, or do I need to tear down and mess with the bearings to make this better?

I also have a question about radio gear. I'm running a standard Futaba receiver with a Tekin Formula 10 ESC. This combination is just millimeters short of fitting in the electronic bay, but close doesn't really cut it here. So instead I'm looking to mount my receiver on the top deck. To get it to fit under the body though, I need to remove the top half of the case of the receiver leaving the electronics more exposed. Has anyone else ever run like this? The receiver case isn't sealed to begin with, and just seems to be plastic, so it doesn't look like the top really protects very well against water or interference but I've never tried running like this.

I know I could get a micro receiver like the Novak XXL, but for now I'd just like to get running without spending the extra $50; am I just setting myself up for trouble?
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Old 01-15-2003, 06:50 PM   #319
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WRXpilot

The drivetrain is pretty ineffecient on this car. There's not a lot you can do about it if you don't want to get rid of the heavy grease in the bearings. You can try using White Lightning or some type of bike chain wax to lube the bevel gears. That will also quiet things down a bit. If you want to spend some money, Kose makes a really nice drive shaft set with delrin outdrives. The best part is that it has a delrin gear for the rear bulkhead instead of the alum one. It seems to reduce the drag quite bit. Also, try loosening up the bulkheads a bit to see if the bearings are binding up on the plastic from the bulkheads. You may have to do some subtle trimming.

As far as the reciever goes, pick up some of that heat shrink plastic that you use for batteries. It should fit over the circuit board and you can use a hairdryer to shrink it down. Then, just poke holes for the crystal to plug in and trim enough away for you wiring to connect to. This also saves some weight. Otherwise, you can try a balloon or two. That's an old offroad trick.
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Old 01-16-2003, 09:33 AM   #320
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psycho

just got the Cross chassis for my F201. when I use the stock plastic motor mount..the motor is not flat with the chassis. do you have any problems with yours? waiting to get the Tamiya motor mount. I have the tech-racing...but does not fit.

I have a machinest working on a full set of delrin arms. hopefully alot more durable than stock. I'll let everyone know when I get them in and how much they will cost.
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Old 01-16-2003, 05:44 PM   #321
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Default Williams FW24

I'm not sure if the news has been posted here or elsewhere (so apologies if this is old).

I was surfing the Rainbowten website and saw that Tamiya will be releasing the F201 sporting the FW24 body at the end of February. Presumably, there will be news of this at the German Exhibition which is being held at the end of this month.

Let's hope a Mclaren, Toyota or Jordan is also in the pipeline.
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Old 01-17-2003, 08:44 AM   #322
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I just read this news too over on formula1-rc.com. Even though I'm a Schumie fan, it is good to see them coming out with more body sets. It does surprise me that they didn't come out with the Toyota version next. Its certain to sell well in Japan, especially if Toyota does well this season.

I hope they come out with McLaren, Toyota, and maybe a Sauber set.
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Old 01-19-2003, 05:32 PM   #323
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Thumbs up First Run

Well, I got everything I needed to finish building yesterday, and took the car out for a shakedown today. I was surprised at it's speed with just the kit black can motor, I guess my drivetrain concerns were unfounded. It's not as fast as my HPI Super F1, but that has a 15T motor in it. It's also MUCH easier to drive through the corners.

The rear diff did manage to completely unscrew itself after 5 minutes, but the screw didn't break, so I just retightened it to a pretty firm setting and it didn't seem so come loose again after driving it for 12 minutes.

What was a pain was getting to the rear diff, how does everyone else on here usually do it? I looked for an easy way, but eventually I just had to pull the rear of the car apart. Luckily, the suspension all attaches to the upper half of the diff case, so I didn't have to pull it apart.

I also have the car set up close to DJ's setup, with about 4mm of rear ground clearance, soft springs, 3000wt oil and the 3mm spring clip. It seems to be able to bottom out really easily though; it the car is sitting on a flat surface, it takes almost no effort to push the rear to bottom out. The front feels much stiffer (It has Tamiya's olive/firm springs). It seems to handle alright though, so are scratches on the chasis just going to be a fact of life here?
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Old 01-20-2003, 02:31 PM   #324
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WRXpilot

Try a little (I mean little!) dab of blue loctite on the threads of the diff screw. I did that when I built the kit, based on past experience, and mine have never backed out.

Try using a couple o-rings over the shock shafts before you screw the end on the shock shaft. So, they will be underneath the spring on the outside of the shock body. You'll have to play around to figure out how many you need to have an effective bump stop without limiting the shock's ability to do it's job. If you plan to race at TCS, make sure they are orange or black o-rings!
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Old 01-20-2003, 04:40 PM   #325
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Yahoo!! A Tamiya Williams is coming, hope its the 2003 Williams with Montoya's no. 3.
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Old 01-20-2003, 06:32 PM   #326
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Very cool.I hope to see a few more teams available from Tamiya.
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Old 01-20-2003, 06:33 PM   #327
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hey guys, whats the best handling body for the F103RS 2wd tamiya cars?
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Old 01-20-2003, 10:59 PM   #328
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The best handling body for the F103 would be the Lotus 107B body set. It's one many TCS nationals and is the body of choice for the fast guys
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Old 01-21-2003, 06:30 AM   #329
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THanks I'll look into that one

but just wondering... what about the F type and M type...they look really cool. (just bites that they're prepainted) are they any better than the lotus?
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Old 01-21-2003, 11:15 AM   #330
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WRX: I had mine losen up on me when I first ran it, but the locktite will solve that problem. What I did was put just a dab on the actual diff screw, but put a full drop on the locking screw that goes in the opposite side.

As for an easy way to get to the rear diff.......there isn't one. What you had to do is pretty much how it has to be done.

The rear end is bottomed out quite easily when you push it by hand, but while running mine outside on a parking lot track, I went for quite a while befoe I ever got a scratch on the bottom of the car. So I don't believe the back end bottoms out all that often during actual racing.

Wilfred: Don't worry, Tamiya always includes the decals for both drivers on its sheets, so the Williams set will have Montoyas stuff there.
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