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Old 11-10-2002, 05:35 PM   #196
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I mean psycho.......sorry.
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Old 11-10-2002, 07:33 PM   #197
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The scews in the ball diffs have a tendency to loosen or break (so I hear) and the front arms are also very prone to breakage if abused. It isn't as tough as any of Tamiya's touring car chassis and therefore requires more care when driving to avoid breakdowns. In a recent race meet, I managed to break both bottom front arms and I had to use a splint to hold them for the finals.

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Tnx pysho, are all the stock parts of the f201 durable?
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Old 11-10-2002, 08:08 PM   #198
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Yeah I can echo those points he say about the weak spots.I think if Tamiya wants a bit more strength in the arms they should eliminate the holes for the plate to screw into and find another means of attaching a sway bar or plate.The diff screws are simple to fix by going with the other diffs offered.The lightweight diffs should be far sturdier.
I finished first overall in our F201 class today with the West McLaren limping along the last couple laps with broken lower suspension on the right from clipping the boards in a high speed sweeper.(Too tight of a line I guess )
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Old 11-11-2002, 02:44 AM   #199
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I know exactly what you mean about driving with broken suspension.

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Yeah I can echo those points he say about the weak spots.I think if Tamiya wants a bit more strength in the arms they should eliminate the holes for the plate to screw into and find another means of attaching a sway bar or plate.The diff screws are simple to fix by going with the other diffs offered.The lightweight diffs should be far sturdier.
I finished first overall in our F201 class today with the West McLaren limping along the last couple laps with broken lower suspension on the right from clipping the boards in a high speed sweeper.(Too tight of a line I guess )
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Old 11-11-2002, 10:15 AM   #200
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I haven't had the problem with the diff screw breaking, and I figured it might back out, so I put some loctite on it when I built the car originally. My guess is that the guys that are breaking the screws have them back out on them and over torque them to try to keep them tight, but it's just a guess. I wrote an article on www.formula1-rc.com on how to beef up the lower suspension arms. It works really well. I haven't broken one since I did the mod. Pick up some carbon tape from your lhs and some 5 minute epoxy. Use the tape to wrap the lower arms over the weak area where the hole is. A buddy of mine did it too, but I found a way to make them look better. He took electrical tape and wrapped the carbon tape/epoxy mess and removed the tape once the epoxy had set. A lot of guys in my area are cutting out small pieces of aluminum and bending it around the arm and epoxying it in place. One unfortunate side effect to doing this is that you place more stress on the bulkhead during a crash. I haven't broken a lower arm since I reinforced mine, but I have cracked a bulkhead. Wheel to wheel contact doesn't take me out any more, but a nice whack on the boards cetainly can! I guess I should learn how to drive!
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Old 11-11-2002, 03:45 PM   #201
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I have been thinking of the carbon tape idea as well I have been thinking of going with a long flat head 2.0mm screw right thru the arm pivots top to bottom using a tapered nut on the other end to hold the arms to the bulkhead as I find using the stock screws just rip out.
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Old 11-11-2002, 04:29 PM   #202
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You're running the stabilizer plate? You should try running it without! The car has much more steering, which is great when you run a hotter motor (19T.) You can also get the ride height down to 3 or 4mm. If you run that low, you'll definitely need to increase steering.
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Old 11-11-2002, 04:57 PM   #203
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So, based on your experience, the suspension arms needs reinforcement, are there any hard hop up arms available in the market? are the stock shocks race worthy?
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Old 11-11-2002, 05:18 PM   #204
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I have not seen any hop-up or aftermarket lower arms. I'd like to see someone come out with delrin lower arms. The kit shocks are definitely race worthy, just put some heavier oil in them.
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Old 11-11-2002, 10:49 PM   #205
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I have not run the plate in some time now because I run the car low and do need more steering.I love the way the car handles without the plate in place in fact I have E-mailed Tamiya about lower arms without holes in them to add some much needed strength.
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Old 11-12-2002, 05:13 PM   #206
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Psycho: how heavy? 60-80? am still waiting for the kit to arrive this Dec.
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Old 11-12-2002, 06:06 PM   #207
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try diff oil.`/.
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Old 11-13-2002, 08:12 AM   #208
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Hi Guys,

Just want to let you all know, we had a great weekend of F201 racing last Sunday. A total of 8 cars lined up on the grid (it was awesome just seeing 8 F1 cars line up on the grid) and we ran 6 minute qualifying and 6 minute main (i think we can push 7!) with 19T spec motors and stock gear ratio. After the race we had about 3-4 more racers that will be joining us next time.

I am also working on a point series and a new website for the F201 class, and that should be able to draw more racers to this new and exciting class I'll keep you guys posted on when the series and the website is starting up!

Wilfred,

as far as oil for the shocks, we are running anywhere from 3000wt to 5000wt silicone diff grease (stuff for the 1/8th scale) in our shocks.

Thanks

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
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Old 11-13-2002, 01:33 PM   #209
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So who has some tuning tips for the Chameleon 2's?
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Old 11-13-2002, 05:20 PM   #210
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Wilfred

Like was previously suggested, use silicon diff oil. Most everyone in my area uses Mugen 3000 weight diff oil. I have the Square (brand) teflon piston/shock shaft sets, so I run with 60 weight oil.

Steve

That's great that you guys have a points series for F201. They are fun cars.

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Most guys in my area are either running 4499 brushes with green pos/red neg springs or they're going with the P94 brush hoods and the oversized 4383 brushes with the same springs. The original Chameleon is a pos. It's no comparison to the Chameleon 2. I'm running the Reedy Spec19 w/bearings, so I don't have any personal experience with the Chameleon 2.
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