Stupidass

I own a slash chuck works a3 lcg chassis. Any tips anybody has to share to help me succeed in creating something formidable. Castle 3800 2s. No rules I have to follow. A buch of work buddies racing At work at the airport.

Stregone

I raced my slash on road last year, did pretty well with it. I had front shocks all around. STRC lcg kit. Protrak suspension, but with the stock front shock tower. I used some touring car springs on the shocks (with alot of spacers). The ride height was about 5mm. Ran proline street fighter tires soaked in sticky kicks. Don't use sticky kicks in the summer if it gets really hot. Makes the tires TOO soft and they wear out super fast. For fall and spring its awesome.

Other than that make sure the driveline is free spinning and have at it.

Stupidass

5mm. Nice. I have heard to use fuel line tubing in the shocks. But would limiting straps possibly be better so that the fluid level in the shock is still at max capacity? And has anyone ever heard of putting a piece of tape on one of the holes on the valve in the shock and creating a one way valve. So that dampening and rebound are at a different rate?

Stregone

I got some fuel tubing to limit the rebound of the shocks, but never got around to putting it in the shocks (its kind of a pain). Worked fine without it.

Don't use fuel tubing or limiting straps to lower the ride height, you will not have any droop and it will not handle well. Use shorter springs.

bpalmer

iTrader: (1)

after i drilled my shock towers and moved the shock mounts, 3 degrees rear toe in, and a set of worn out goose bumps it ran great. won 3 out of my last 4 races of the season. we are limited to running offroad sct tires and wheels

Stupidass

You make a very good point stregone. Droop never even came to mind. That's why I like forums. It gets my mind out of the box it is stuck in.

urban

bpalmer
do you have any pics?

Stregone

I just remembered I had a thread at URC with some pics. Check it out: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=122633

bpalmer

iTrader: (1)

unfortunately ...no it is 100 % disassembled, most likely till april as we start racing in may...
however...by leaning the shocks in you can get pretty creative on new mounting positions as well as using a little fuel tubing on the shock shafts. and as the other poster mentioned ..a little tire dope and it handles pretty well..

rnelias

iTrader: (11)

I've assembled a Slash (in fact, an extended Rustler) to race onroad.









I raced this car last year and only did some mods from the previous car.

Changes I've made:

Motor:

Velineon 3500 sensorless => Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored. Not sure if it's better or not... (because Velineon is a beast!!). Geared 56/14 with aluminum gearbox (note: I live in Rio de Janeiro and, here, in the summer, the temperature is around 40 Celsius!!!!)

Shocks:

Last year:
Flex tubes inside the shocks, 1 hole pistons, piece of aluminum to make the shock tower higher. It worked like a charm but I decided to eliminate the tower extenders this year.

This year:

Now, I'm using stock shocks (with aluminum caps and TiNi shafts), 3 hole pistons (70/80, front/rear silicon), Losi springs and those small plastic spacers that comes with the shocks. I've put them inside the shocks (like I did with the flex tubes) and, apparently, it's working pretty well. I'll test this setup tomorrow and return here to leave my feedback.

Here's our track here in Brazil:

+ YouTube Video

rnelias

iTrader: (11)

Some tests and changes:

Yesterday, I finally had the opportunity to test my car. Here goes some changes I did and conclusions:

1). Gearing (MMP + Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored)

56/14 (4.00) was not a good choice. After changing to 52/15 (3.47) the car started to give me a good final speed and responsive accelerations. Top temperature was 75 Celsius in other very hot day here in Rio (rounding 38 Celsius). I also adjusted my timing advance to the "high" level in MMP (not tested the highest yet).

2). Suspension: nothing to be changed in the shocks. They are working really great as I planned. I only changed my rear camber and put -10 degrees.

What do I think that can be improved?

Speed: Redline 10.5T proved to be enough to push a Slash 2WD, but I'm not sure if I can go further with gearing/timing settings. Maybe a 13.5T or the high torque rotor would help to squeeze more speed in this car.

Rear hubs: when turning, it's easy to note that the rear hubs are hardly required due to tires traction and suspension work. In some cases the tires vibrate laterally so hard that my hubs, protrac/plastic, are starting to get loose where the bearings are placed. I'm planing to change these hubs for aluminum.

cmarcan167

iTrader: (13)

I've been searching and found a few threads but have a question still. How do I get the ride height down to get the truck lower to the ground? If anyone has done this any setup info or pointers would be appreciated.

rcgen

Zipties on each shock or fuel tubing as spacers inside the shock.

flat4

If I was going to run on road with no jumps, I would be using fuel tubing in the shock shaft to lower the CG of it too. what kind of tires are you running?

Johnnysplits

iTrader: (1)

I'm converting mine to a drag car. Parma '55 chevy body and the wheels/tires from the traxxas 1/8 funny car.