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Old 12-04-2017, 12:20 PM   #1321
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The rear upper link uses a set screw as a stud and the ball end threads onto that does it not?
If you overtighten the ball on top you can start to pull the threads out of the hub.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:09 AM   #1322
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No the rear just screws into plastic.


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Old 12-05-2017, 10:07 AM   #1323
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I'm going to paste my last 2 setups (wet tarmac and carpet car), but I'm not suggesting these are great setups and you should ask follow them.
I've started this year and although my driving and setups have been improving, I have a long way to go, so I'm posting them as a start of a discussion.
So feel free to comment on how they could be improved.

My carpet car has mostly been on grey carpet, but I have ran it black carpet once or twice, but it was a little too pointy. However, I have some plans to improve it such run more screws in the top deck and possibly fit a larger insert to raise the roll centre. Or maybe run stiffer springs. I'll let you know how I get on.

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Old 12-05-2017, 10:08 AM   #1324
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Wet/cold tarmac. Tight course.
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File Type: pdf Sakura XI Sport_Wet Car - Coastal 3rd Dec 2017.pdf (1.10 MB, 5 views)
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:09 AM   #1325
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Carpet setup. Very twisty/tight track
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:17 AM   #1326
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Here is the setup from the last time I drove the car in the dry.
The wet setup was derived from this (it was supposed to be dry)
The wet setup was being adapted from this setup... but there will be plenty of more opportunities to develo[p teh wet car further over winter (am in the UK)

Like I said before, I'm not suggesting these are great setups, but it's more to start the discussion. Maybe we can all develop the car together if we share what we are up to?
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File Type: pdf Sakura XI Sport_Dry Car - Coastal October 2017.pdf (1.12 MB, 6 views)
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:30 AM   #1327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buroz888 View Post
No the rear just screws into plastic.


I have never had this problem before. I learned to race with this car in VTA and hit everything you can imagine. Maybe that ball stud threads are too short. Or maybe try using a thread tap before putting it in. I broke the rear bulk head cover before, but never that
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:41 AM   #1328
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I have never had this problem before. I learned to race with this car in VTA and hit everything you can imagine. Maybe that ball stud threads are too short. Or maybe try using a thread tap before putting it in. I broke the rear bulk head cover before, but never that
Most people will fill the empty hole with a grub screw, to give better wall thickness and support for the long ball stud.
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Old 12-05-2017, 01:40 PM   #1329
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I just sent the picture. I've done it once, but only once (my car has had a lot of abuse).
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:59 AM   #1330
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Sure I will post it tonight. I had the same issue with 3Racing and Turnigy parts. So we have broken 4 of them.

Here is the picture of one of my broken hub thread


Any idea of the root cause?

For next week end, I will use the inner position. What's the impact on the car handling?

Thanks
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:13 PM   #1331
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Just to be clear you are using the stock ball stud right? It measures 5mm long on the thread and even with a 1mm shim is plenty to hold onto the hub. I am also running a 1mm shim on my rear outer hole still on the stock kit hub, I have the spare composite ones too as backups. Are you having any other vibrations or loose fitting components in the rear such as wobbling hub on the hinge pins or excess slop on the arms causing vibrations? I use a drop or 2 of blue medium thread lock on mine just to be safe.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:20 PM   #1332
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I use a drop or 2 of blue medium thread lock on mine just to be safe.
Thread lock into plastics? That usually hurts more than it helps (it has the tendency to soften some kinds of plastic) - I do not recommend that in general.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:57 PM   #1333
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Thread lock into plastics? That usually hurts more than it helps (it has the tendency to soften some kinds of plastic) - I do not recommend that in general.
Haven't had any issues on any of my cars yet. Been doin that for almost 5 years.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:05 AM   #1334
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Just to be clear you are using the stock ball stud right? It measures 5mm long on the thread and even with a 1mm shim is plenty to hold onto the hub. I am also running a 1mm shim on my rear outer hole still on the stock kit hub, I have the spare composite ones too as backups. Are you having any other vibrations or loose fitting components in the rear such as wobbling hub on the hinge pins or excess slop on the arms causing vibrations? I use a drop or 2 of blue medium thread lock on mine just to be safe.
No vibration. The screw were not loose and not over tightened (2 fingers approach to screw)
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:52 AM   #1335
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Haven't had any issues on any of my cars yet. Been doin that for almost 5 years.
That's why I said some kinds of plastic. Not all.

But, as much as I think it's generally not a very good idea, just as I said earlier, I also don't see it being very useful either (no offense). Unlike screws that go into metal (where you have almost zero resistance in turning the screw until you hit the end of the thread), putting screws into plastic usually offers quite a lot of resistance to turning the screw form the material itself - all the way in, not just at the very end. And they take quite a bit of force on the screwdriver to get in all the way (compared to metal). Usually that's what keeps them in - securely. With the exception of some screws holding dampers in arms, I've rarely seen screws into plastic that have just come loose somehow, without being ripped out or the plastic part being at least damaged or destroyed (in which case thread lock would not help either).
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