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3 Racing Sakura XI Sport

Old 05-14-2020, 05:54 PM
  #2251  
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Originally Posted by snowman49 View Post
swear that RaceVTA is gonna make me go broke looking at all the parts they have on there!
for now just ordered some extra OE replacements though. planning on getting some wider offset hexes, and bulkheads at least, eventually.
wanting to make something up to protect the bottom of the chassis though as there are still the occasional pebble where i run, would it be a bad idea to cover the holes under the belts? thinking either some tape or a sticker type of deal, or a thin sheet of lexan/plastic.
You could try the clear gorilla tape as that's strong and it wouldn't be noticeable. I use it on the side panels of the body and on the inside front of the body as well. It's pretty strong and wouldn't easily come away from the chassis after you put it on.
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Old 05-14-2020, 09:07 PM
  #2252  
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will try that! kind of have an issue now though, for some reason under much power, it pulls pretty good, but when coasting it tracks straight, going to re-visit my ride height and droop again and see what i can do. i put on a different servo and it seems to have some play back and forth, at the end of the servo horn it has about 1-2mm of play, dont really like that. i dont think its the servo horn loose on the servo nub either.
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Old 05-15-2020, 05:11 AM
  #2253  
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Originally Posted by snowman49 View Post
will try that! kind of have an issue now though, for some reason under much power, it pulls pretty good, but when coasting it tracks straight, going to re-visit my ride height and droop again and see what I can do. I put on a different servo and it seems to have some play back and forth, at the end of the servo horn it has about 1-2mm of play, don't really like that. I don't think its the servo horn loose on the servo nub either.
Before the new servo horn were you having this issue? Check to see that all measurements are correct from left to right. If all are correct then try removing the play in the servo arm and revisit adjusting the steering track via the link itself from the horn to the rack and not the transmitter trims. Try adjusting under some power and not coasting. When all the links, c-hub checks, ride height and droop checks have been done you can try that to see by eliminating anything that's not as it should be. That's all I can think of regarding the car not tracking straight under power.
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Old 05-15-2020, 07:54 AM
  #2254  
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i at this time am still using the stock servo horn, initially i was using that traxxas servo, but had another servo thats spec showed a bit quicker so i swapped it out. that one turned out it had some forward and backwards play as well as a little bit of side to side. swapped out for another different servo i had and still just a little bit of side to side. it seems its in the servo where the movement is i think.
will look into the turnbuckle lengths tonight and see what i can see. i really havent adjusted them much after the initial build. (i got them all to kit length as called for in the manual.) but in case something got weird from an impact or something.

really appreciate the advice!
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Old 05-15-2020, 08:44 AM
  #2255  
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Originally Posted by snowman49 View Post
i at this time am still using the stock servo horn, initially i was using that traxxas servo, but had another servo thats spec showed a bit quicker so i swapped it out. that one turned out it had some forward and backwards play as well as a little bit of side to side. swapped out for another different servo i had and still just a little bit of side to side. it seems its in the servo where the movement is i think.
will look into the turnbuckle lengths tonight and see what i can see. i really havent adjusted them much after the initial build. (i got them all to kit length as called for in the manual.) but in case something got weird from an impact or something.

really appreciate the advice!
👍👍 Np at all. Just lending a hand as best I could from the very limited knowledge I have.
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:36 PM
  #2256  
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got the rid height and the droop adjusted aprox 2mm over ride height, double checked my camber/toe link lengths, still having some pulling issues, pretty good dart off to the right side on power and left side off power. seems that a bump really upsets its control as well, is this most likely a weight thing? too much weight off to one side (didnt seem to notice it with the brushed setup, but i was also running a heavy 7 cell NiMh battery, motor was definitely less torquey though so may have just not noticed it?) or maybe a camber/toe adjustment i need to tune out?
sorry pretty new to setup, most of my experience was off-road and bashing so not as susceptible to as minor adjustments being an issue.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:48 AM
  #2257  
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Originally Posted by snowman49 View Post
got the rid height and the droop adjusted aprox 2mm over ride height, double checked my camber/toe link lengths, still having some pulling issues, pretty good dart off to the right side on power and left side off power. seems that a bump really upsets its control as well, is this most likely a weight thing? too much weight off to one side (didnt seem to notice it with the brushed setup, but i was also running a heavy 7 cell NiMh battery, motor was definitely less torquey though so may have just not noticed it?) or maybe a camber/toe adjustment i need to tune out?
sorry pretty new to setup, most of my experience was off-road and bashing so not as susceptible to as minor adjustments being an issue.
If all measurements are equal, it does sound like a weight distribution issue. I may be off with that but you could check the balance by lifting the rear/front to see which tyre lifts first/last. Whichever side lifts first the video I saw said to lessen the opposite side to either front or rear depending on which end you're checking. E.g. if you're checking the rear and the rear left wheel lifts last then you would lessen the front right shock ring with a couple turns and then stiffen the front left with same equal turns. This is done until both rear tyres lift at same time. This is repeated for the front with the same concept. Whichever tyre lifts last you adjust the opp side diagonally from it and then stiffen the other side(shock adjuster rings. same process as when you're adjusting ride height by turning the adjuster rings). This is a way to see if the car is heavier on one side to the other and make the kit balanced. This is a process that's done with or without a tweak station. There's 2 small holes one in the front and one to the rear of the chassis that the 1.5mm hex driver is used to lift the car from under the chassis. You'd need to do this off the edge of a table where you can position the driver under the car and lift slowly to see which tyre lifts last/first. Was going to tell you about the toe out in the front but if both steering links are of equal measurement then you're good regarding toe out as both would read the same. Make sure your belts aren't tensioned too tight as well. My 2 cents worth.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:07 PM
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i have a hard platform i was using more or less like a cutting board but a bit stiffer and harder (think its an acrylic panel?) that i was using for that (saw a video of someone explaining that) got that pretty close. the 1.5mm screw is far enough out the tires were still able to rest and adjust from there. thank you for the tips/tutorial man! will double check the tension, at the moment i have them set up box stock setting, might try loosening that up as i think the box stock is set for faster 10.5T motors.
again appreciate it! will get this figured out eventually lol i really need to invest in a true setup station, but spending about as much or more as i did on the kit itself, kinda putting that off for now.
again i appreciate any and all advice/tips man!!!
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:23 PM
  #2259  
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Originally Posted by snowman49 View Post
i have a hard platform i was using more or less like a cutting board but a bit stiffer and harder (think its an acrylic panel?) that i was using for that (saw a video of someone explaining that) got that pretty close. the 1.5mm screw is far enough out the tires were still able to rest and adjust from there. thank you for the tips/tutorial man! will double check the tension, at the moment i have them set up box stock setting, might try loosening that up as i think the box stock is set for faster 10.5T motors.
again appreciate it! will get this figured out eventually lol i really need to invest in a true setup station, but spending about as much or more as i did on the kit itself, kinda putting that off for now.
again i appreciate any and all advice/tips man!!!
👍 anytime. I'm a beginner myself so anything I'm saying and can be corrected by another more experienced person is more than welcomed. Sometimes that's what I'm looking for is to be corrected. Any advice I can give that actually works then great. Hope you get that issue sorted and just get out there and enjoy this hobby we call RC.
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Old 05-20-2020, 07:05 AM
  #2260  
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I do balance and tweak is a totally different way. I start with balance right to left. I then use a tweak station to set the tweak. I then set the droop screws by lifting the front and back end from the middle and set the screws so that the tires leave the ground at the same time with the droop (always measured above right height) the same. Started doing this back in the tub chassis days (TC3, TC4, XXXS, Ta-05) because the chassis where never straight so we had to tune around it.
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:02 AM
  #2261  
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Originally Posted by kufman View Post
I do balance and tweak is a totally different way. I start with balance right to left. I then use a tweak station to set the tweak. I then set the droop screws by lifting the front and back end from the middle and set the screws so that the tires leave the ground at the same time with the droop (always measured above right height) the same. Started doing this back in the tub chassis days (TC3, TC4, XXXS, Ta-05) because the chassis where never straight so we had to tune around it.
I thought using a tweak station or using the hex driver under the chassis to raise it and adjust by opposite shocks from front to rear was the same thing. I may have gotten the translation/understanding wrong. Never too late to learn something in RC. Thanks.

Last edited by Pedmar007; 05-20-2020 at 11:14 AM.
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