Pedmar007

You could try the clear gorilla tape as that's strong and it wouldn't be noticeable. I use it on the side panels of the body and on the inside front of the body as well. It's pretty strong and wouldn't easily come away from the chassis after you put it on.

snowman49

will try that! kind of have an issue now though, for some reason under much power, it pulls pretty good, but when coasting it tracks straight, going to re-visit my ride height and droop again and see what i can do. i put on a different servo and it seems to have some play back and forth, at the end of the servo horn it has about 1-2mm of play, dont really like that. i dont think its the servo horn loose on the servo nub either.

Pedmar007

Before the new servo horn were you having this issue? Check to see that all measurements are correct from left to right. If all are correct then try removing the play in the servo arm and revisit adjusting the steering track via the link itself from the horn to the rack and not the transmitter trims. Try adjusting under some power and not coasting. When all the links, c-hub checks, ride height and droop checks have been done you can try that to see by eliminating anything that's not as it should be. That's all I can think of regarding the car not tracking straight under power.

snowman49

i at this time am still using the stock servo horn, initially i was using that traxxas servo, but had another servo thats spec showed a bit quicker so i swapped it out. that one turned out it had some forward and backwards play as well as a little bit of side to side. swapped out for another different servo i had and still just a little bit of side to side. it seems its in the servo where the movement is i think.
will look into the turnbuckle lengths tonight and see what i can see. i really havent adjusted them much after the initial build. (i got them all to kit length as called for in the manual.) but in case something got weird from an impact or something.

really appreciate the advice!

Pedmar007

👍👍 Np at all. Just lending a hand as best I could from the very limited knowledge I have.

snowman49

got the rid height and the droop adjusted aprox 2mm over ride height, double checked my camber/toe link lengths, still having some pulling issues, pretty good dart off to the right side on power and left side off power. seems that a bump really upsets its control as well, is this most likely a weight thing? too much weight off to one side (didnt seem to notice it with the brushed setup, but i was also running a heavy 7 cell NiMh battery, motor was definitely less torquey though so may have just not noticed it?) or maybe a camber/toe adjustment i need to tune out?
sorry pretty new to setup, most of my experience was off-road and bashing so not as susceptible to as minor adjustments being an issue.

Pedmar007

If all measurements are equal, it does sound like a weight distribution issue. I may be off with that but you could check the balance by lifting the rear/front to see which tyre lifts first/last. Whichever side lifts first the video I saw said to lessen the opposite side to either front or rear depending on which end you're checking. E.g. if you're checking the rear and the rear left wheel lifts last then you would lessen the front right shock ring with a couple turns and then stiffen the front left with same equal turns. This is done until both rear tyres lift at same time. This is repeated for the front with the same concept. Whichever tyre lifts last you adjust the opp side diagonally from it and then stiffen the other side(shock adjuster rings. same process as when you're adjusting ride height by turning the adjuster rings). This is a way to see if the car is heavier on one side to the other and make the kit balanced. This is a process that's done with or without a tweak station. There's 2 small holes one in the front and one to the rear of the chassis that the 1.5mm hex driver is used to lift the car from under the chassis. You'd need to do this off the edge of a table where you can position the driver under the car and lift slowly to see which tyre lifts last/first. Was going to tell you about the toe out in the front but if both steering links are of equal measurement then you're good regarding toe out as both would read the same. Make sure your belts aren't tensioned too tight as well. My 2 cents worth.

snowman49

i have a hard platform i was using more or less like a cutting board but a bit stiffer and harder (think its an acrylic panel?) that i was using for that (saw a video of someone explaining that) got that pretty close. the 1.5mm screw is far enough out the tires were still able to rest and adjust from there. thank you for the tips/tutorial man! will double check the tension, at the moment i have them set up box stock setting, might try loosening that up as i think the box stock is set for faster 10.5T motors.
again appreciate it! will get this figured out eventually lol i really need to invest in a true setup station, but spending about as much or more as i did on the kit itself, kinda putting that off for now.
again i appreciate any and all advice/tips man!!!

Pedmar007

👍 anytime. I'm a beginner myself so anything I'm saying and can be corrected by another more experienced person is more than welcomed. Sometimes that's what I'm looking for is to be corrected. Any advice I can give that actually works then great. Hope you get that issue sorted and just get out there and enjoy this hobby we call RC.

kufman

iTrader: (6)

I do balance and tweak is a totally different way. I start with balance right to left. I then use a tweak station to set the tweak. I then set the droop screws by lifting the front and back end from the middle and set the screws so that the tires leave the ground at the same time with the droop (always measured above right height) the same. Started doing this back in the tub chassis days (TC3, TC4, XXXS, Ta-05) because the chassis where never straight so we had to tune around it.

Pedmar007

I thought using a tweak station or using the hex driver under the chassis to raise it and adjust by opposite shocks from front to rear was the same thing. I may have gotten the translation/understanding wrong. Never too late to learn something in RC. Thanks.

Pedmar007

Hi Guys,

My question for those who may have some experience with this regards using traction compound on an outdoor parking lot that's being used as a nitro 1/8 and 1/10 plus electric 1/10 touring car race track for yrs. The level of racing consistency hasn't been enough to accumulate the black line marking that is normally seen on major nitro tracks. My question is would using traction compound in 1/10 touring car racing 13.5 Blinky be beneficial given all that's done for track maintenance is using a gas air blower to clean the track before any racing is done? I'm new to this, so seeing that traction compound is commonly used on purposely built RC tracks, I wanted to know if using compound on a such a track would be of any great use? What I should also mention is the area is solely used to race RC, there's no allowance for vehicles to be parked in that area.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Double posted? See my response elsewhere.

snowman49

really loving my car, do think i need to get a larger spur gear or smaller pinion by a tooth or two as motor is starting to get warm after long periods.
till having issues pulling to the left on acceleration, but in reverse and off-power, tracks straight as can be. pulling pretty damn hard too. i dont know if i should chalk it up to that little bit of play in the servo gearing or if its something else?

Pedmar007

Could be the play but if the play is very slight then it might be something else. May have to try letting another racer take a look and see. Could be something very simple that's just missing your eye. Just a question but are all the screws still in? Really referring to the ones under the front arms that go into the steering arms through the king pins. I find that those tend to loosen a bit too easy.