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Old 02-08-2019, 09:00 AM
  #1846  
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Originally Posted by Snooginz View Post
And what about the turnbuckles?

I see 3Racing has nice PINK onces? Or should I rather get Titanium.
Schumacher has Pink Titanium ones
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
OMG !!! for decades I have been using the wrong screws on my toy race cars

Thank you Bert for that very important information ... oops sorry Nero you are starting to sound alike

FYI I even use SS bolts on my real autox car I don't know how i'm still alive
Perhaps you have been. Lots of people get away with the wrong thing in the wrong place forever and never get bitten by it. Good for you.

Stainless work hardens. It galls. And tends to crack instead of neck or bend. It's a choice you can make, but not one I'd make.
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
Perhaps you have been. Lots of people get away with the wrong thing in the wrong place forever and never get bitten by it. Good for you.

Stainless work hardens. It galls. And tends to crack instead of neck or bend. It's a choice you can make, but not one I'd make.
Stainless Screw Kits Cars/Trucks

OMG run for your lives!!! they are putting our lives in danger !!! lawsuit anyone ?? lol
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Snooginz View Post
Would you recommend Alum screws for the top deck or rather steel screws M3x6 Buttons?
I use 3x8 on the stock plastic bulkheads, longer screw better grip without stripping, I use both alum and ss on my cars without any problems. With aluminum bulkheads ur fine with 3x6.

Originally Posted by Snooginz View Post
And what about the turnbuckles?

I see 3Racing has nice PINK onces? Or should I rather get Titanium.
What kind of driver are you ?? do you crash alot ?? I have yet to break a aluminum one but that doesn't mean it cant happen.

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Old 02-08-2019, 10:36 AM
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I am about to race my car for the first time in VTA tomorrow. What's the ballpark for amount of weight I will have to add and how? Thanks
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
I am about to race my car for the first time in VTA tomorrow. What's the ballpark for amount of weight I will have to add and how? Thanks
No magic number here, you need to be at 1450g, body and battery play a huge role on how much you will have to add, most I have added is around 50g

3RAC-BW03
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
No magic number here, you need to be at 1450g, body and battery play a huge role on how much you will have to add, most I have added is around 50g

3RAC-BW03
ok thanks!
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakeracer81 View Post
ok thanks!
If you dont have a scale at home head to your local usps, fedex or ups. Tire shops and harbor freight have stick on weights if you dont have a local hobby shop. But I wouldn't worry about it too much, im sure you will get all the help you need at your local track
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:20 PM
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Race report time, this has been the busiest rc week in my life, spent 9 days straight racing rc cars not sure how I still have a woman in my life
Sunday at Deans, last chance to get my VTA and 25.5tc dialed in for the birds, deans is around the same size and a very close layout so got my gearing set as close as I could, also goofed around with the RCGT car.


Monday night at Quaker, cant miss monday night ... way too much fun



Tuesday through Sunday .... SNOWBIRDS !!! First practice and qualifying were a disaster my DSM equipped M11 was glitching like crazy, guess all these new radios were crossing over onto my dsm receivers, nothing I did resolved this so for the final rounds I bought a new spectrum dsmr radio ... oh boy what a mistake, felt nothing like my m11 so instead of concentrating on driving I was trying to feel out the radio. Friday night went back to the Snowbirds hobby shop GS HOBBIES and picked up a new M12RS, what a difference, Qualified 4th in the B main, not too bad(13th overall). Start of the b main I quickly moved up to 3rd and waited for a mistake, around lap 6 he overshot a 180 turn so I took the inside and never looked back, quickly caught up to the leader and followed Eddie for the rest of the race, one of my funnest races in a long time, Eddie bumped up to the A and ended up finishing 4th overall ... I finished 11th overall, not bad for a budget car




Monday night back at quaker, the 9th day of rc racing ... yeah I think I had enough.
Am really happy to say 9 days of continues racing and zero issues with the 3racing cars
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:00 PM
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Wow, what an intense race !!! I thought you had the leader beat many times over: very good 3racing platform that will only get better over time !!!
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Old 02-10-2019, 06:20 PM
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Questions... building a NU today. Am at the assembly instructions for the anti-roll bars (front and rear stabilizer).

1. On the front anit-roll bar, the stabilizer bar sticks out through the Ball Cap by a couple of mm. I have the Ball Cap vertical. Is this the correct position? Should I have the Ball Cap at an angle so that none of the stabilizer bar protrudes out past the ball cap? I can post a pic if this doesn't make sense.

2. The behavior of the setup prior to shock installation acts like a solid axle. As I raise one arm, the other arm follows, raises as well. This occurs on both the front and rear.

3. As the instruction manual says, I tightened the set screw on the mount just tight enough to touch, but enough to allow the arms to flow up and down freely. If I tighten too much the arms aren't free to move. Assuming this is the correct behavior.

TIA
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Old 02-10-2019, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by aERonAUtical96 View Post
Questions... building a NU today. Am at the assembly instructions for the anti-roll bars (front and rear stabilizer).

1. On the front anit-roll bar, the stabilizer bar sticks out through the Ball Cap by a couple of mm. I have the Ball Cap vertical. Is this the correct position? Should I have the Ball Cap at an angle so that none of the stabilizer bar protrudes out past the ball cap? I can post a pic if this doesn't make sense.

2. The behavior of the setup prior to shock installation acts like a solid axle. As I raise one arm, the other arm follows, raises as well. This occurs on both the front and rear.

3. As the instruction manual says, I tightened the set screw on the mount just tight enough to touch, but enough to allow the arms to flow up and down freely. If I tighten too much the arms aren't free to move. Assuming this is the correct behavior.

TIA
1) I haven't built this kit, but generally, part of the setup is the amount it sticks out. Might check out some setups, but generally, you make the endlink straight up and down.
2) that is the sway bars. They limit travel left to right and you can think of them as "Additional spring tension only in the corners." This is normal, and will be far less once the shocks are installed.
3) IF you're talking about the sway bar, yes, the set screws will simply snug up play. It should flop freely.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:28 PM
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Default Avout servo mounts.

Hi all.

I have a question that I would like to ask. It is related to the servo mounts. What are the advantages of the floating servo mounts (SAK-U112) with respect to the 2 pieces kit original?

Best regards and thanks in advance.
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Eotz View Post
Hi all.

I have a question that I would like to ask. It is related to the servo mounts. What are the advantages of the floating servo mounts (SAK-U112) with respect to the 2 pieces kit original?

Best regards and thanks in advance.
It allows the chassis to flex equally
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
It allows the chassis to flex equally
Thanks for the info. Finally I found another thread talking about it. Im going to try this system, but not with the part from 3Racing, that is almost impossible to find.
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