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3 Racing Sakura XI Sport

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Old 06-25-2018, 09:44 AM
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Default Motor and servo mount.

Iíve upgraded to the carbon fibre upper and lower deck but the servo and motor mounts donít fit. What are my options?
Cheers in advance
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven_vanh View Post
Iíve upgraded to the carbon fibre upper and lower deck but the servo and motor mounts donít fit. What are my options?
Cheers in advance
I would contact whoever you purchased the chassis from.
FYI only SAK-XS302/WO & SAK-XS301/WO from 3Racing are for the XI Sport. Carbon chassis from the zero, ultimate and advance don't fit.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fermanracer View Post
We have been running 88 to 92 spur on vta. Good speed and torque. 47 to 52 pinion. With vta. We run big carpet track black carpet. I have found that leaning shocks all the way in on stock springs and 35wt oil works really good . If you're running proline tires make sure you scuff them in good.
Thanks for the info - our track runs the grey carpet and is on the small side, so I was aiming for 2:1 looks like you run less? Should I be going for a little under or send it and gear for temp?
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:00 AM
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Just finished building the big bore shock kit .... the caps come drilled from the factory
SAK-U314/PK Big Bore Aluminum Oil Damper Set(Coated Teflon)

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Old 06-28-2018, 07:25 AM
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Hey Mopar.. Does the NU have any options for Aluminum steering knuckles. I ripped mine out at the last race. I'm considering going with a screw and and ball nut versus the ball stud to not rely on threads in plastic to hold. I was trying to run a 13.5T motor for our open class, but looks like I need to reduce it to 17.5. The 13.5T is just so much fun though. The rack gave out last time and then the knuckle failure this time. Both with no impact.. just driving.
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:07 AM
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So i'm about halfway through the build of my car. Maybe 3/4? Boy am I starting to have opinions on this car.

Highlights: The plastics are good. Almost no flash, no inclusions, no cold mold marks. It's mostly really soft.. but that's what you want in a noob car, bend.. not break. However, it would be nice if the instructions were clear on shaving parts for free movement.

Lowlights: Fasteners. They're not quite cheese grade, which is good.. but they're painted, so hexes are full of schmoo, and the hexes aren't precisely 2mm.

If my plan were to live with this car long-term, I'd be replacing fasteners. And finding a m2.6 thread forming tap, to go with my usual m3 thread forming tap.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
So i'm about halfway through the build of my car. Maybe 3/4? Boy am I starting to have opinions on this car.

Highlights: The plastics are good. Almost no flash, no inclusions, no cold mold marks. It's mostly really soft.. but that's what you want in a noob car, bend.. not break. However, it would be nice if the instructions were clear on shaving parts for free movement.

Lowlights: Fasteners. They're not quite cheese grade, which is good.. but they're painted, so hexes are full of schmoo, and the hexes aren't precisely 2mm.

If my plan were to live with this car long-term, I'd be replacing fasteners. And finding a m2.6 thread forming tap, to go with my usual m3 thread forming tap.
Interesting comment on the fasteners. Mine were all good. Fit well with my hex driver. It's a pretty fun kit to get together. If you have any questions just ask. I'm sure one of us has already encountered it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:31 AM
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I have no fear asking. :-) There will be something after I get it on the setup plate. the front swaybar left me questioning some things. But... we'll wait till i'm done to address that.

About the fasteners, this is a sample of one. Maybe my screws came from a different manufacturer. Were yours painted? This set is black painted instead of black oxide coated. And they are softer than Tamiya or Team Associated screws. If my plan were to keep this car, long term, I'd be replacing the screws.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by triguy1975 View Post
Hey Mopar.. Does the NU have any options for Aluminum steering knuckles. I ripped mine out at the last race. I'm considering going with a screw and and ball nut versus the ball stud to not rely on threads in plastic to hold. I was trying to run a 13.5T motor for our open class, but looks like I need to reduce it to 17.5. The 13.5T is just so much fun though. The rack gave out last time and then the knuckle failure this time. Both with no impact.. just driving.
Don't know if 3racing makes one but sure one will fit from something else, although I doubt the sheer power of a 13.5 shredded it, probably just hits over time ... swap it out and try again.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
Don't know if 3racing makes one but sure one will fit from something else, although I doubt the sheer power of a 13.5 shredded it, probably just hits over time ... swap it out and try again.
if you add boost like robert
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:04 AM
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I finished the build tonight. My son helped ("helped") assemble two of the shocks. Roughly 5.5 hours to build the car, without hurrying.

It feels just like the TC7.1 I helped build, I mean the whole construction method is "just about the same" At least, once you use a thread forming tap on the plastic bits, the screws go in almost the same as into aluminum.

The fiberglass makes the screws land funny. The holes are never smooth in fiberglass. It makes me miss the plastic from tamiya, or the smooth holes you get in carbon.

I still kept running into a few screws that were really quite crappy. All of the setscrews were of good quality.

The shocks are the usual I'd expect from 3 Racing. But the fact they came in a $110 package, that's darn impressive.

The electronics are still in the mail... And I haven't finished building my test jig. More to follow!
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:02 AM
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Had some fun racing VTA oval on asphalt last night, changed the setup a bit, close but not there yet, rear end felt a little more loose then I wanted. Finished 3rd on the same lap but had issues with a loaner i-lap transponder so ordered a new one to use just at that track ... guess not all tracks run amb

Front shocks 32.5wt oil, rear 30wt oil, stock pink springs
3* rear toe in, short rear upper link with 2mm spacer on hub, 1k diff, everything else left the same from my carpet setup.
For next week will lose the rear sway bar and go to a softer rear spring, might also try shortening the rear wheelbase.

Open tire rule, was the only one on protoforms lol 1st place had HPI vta, 2nd was running TC tires ... next week will try some hpi tires.


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Old 07-10-2018, 07:15 AM
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Another fun Monday night racing oval on a old worn out parking lot, played around some more with setup changes, went to a softer rear spring, no shim under the inner turnbuckle in the rear, played around with rear shock positions but didn't seem to affect the car much on the slippery surface. Tried a new set of HPI vintage tires but ended up runing Protoforms in the main ... seemed like the car was more drivable. Think its time to build a designated VTA for asphalt, too much work going between setup changes


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Old 07-10-2018, 09:35 AM
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Ran my TD10 with a mod motor over the weekend with the expected result, broken spool lol! Car felt good up until the time it became 3wd.

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Old 07-10-2018, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kufman View Post
Ran my TD10 with a mod motor over the weekend with the expected result, broken spool lol! Car felt good up until the time it became 3wd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWQrauAMz20
love it. Looks great. What mods have you done?
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