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Bodyshell mounting question

Bodyshell mounting question

Old 04-25-2013, 06:59 AM
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Default Bodyshell mounting question

I was reading in the Bodyshell handling thread lately and I was going to post this there only I think it should be it's own thread.

Here is what I don't get about the list/documented handling characteristics....

It all depends on how you mount the body right? What I mean is, if I mount a Speed 6 body on my car and then mount an identical body, only this time I move it forward 2mm, or back for that matter, wouldn't it completely change the handling of the car as the weight CG moves around?

What is the proper position for mounting a body? Should the front wheels centered in the stock cutout? I have seen a few how-to videos and they all say you don't have to use the stock cutouts, just cut them to match your car.

I never use the stock cutouts anyway but everytime I cut a shell there is the moement of doubt, am I mounting this in a way to adversely influence the handling of the body?

Additonally, it seems I get crazy body tuck when bumped from behind. There a lot of point and shoot drivers that drive fast into the turns and slam the brakes at our track. This doesn't go well with my style as I like to smooth things out a bit. I think I may be cutting my wheel wells too large which allows the body to tuck too much.

So my quesstions are...

1) Where should you mount the body?

2) How big should the wheel cutout be?
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:13 AM
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Mounting the body forward or backwards will affect handling. It will vary how depending on the body and how far each way. Personally, I center the front wheel cutouts on the front wheels, and then adjust everything else from there. It is consistent if nothing else. In general, shifting the body boackwards will add front steering. This can be a problem with bodies like the LTC-R with a lot of steering already in them. It comes down to setup and how you want the car to feel though.

If you are body tucking (body pushed/pulled in and caught in the wheel/chassis) I would think more trimming is needed. I make sure that I can push in on the body in front of and behind each wheel without it touching the tire. If things can fold in enough to catch the chassis, I probably would not worry about it, but with the tire it is another issue. I cut out as little as possible until the tires are clear, and then call it good. The only thing I end up having to do (most of the time) later is trimming the front spoiler so that it does not rub the ground under braking.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:22 AM
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All the protoform bodies have a square in the wheel location (dont know how else to explain it) you mark the center point of that square. Now there are two ways of doing it, you either do it by eye or do some markings on the body to try and center it up, you want the front drive shaft to line up with that making in the square ( for the front, the rear will line its self up more or less), check by feeling or measuring that the there is the same distance between the outer edge of each front and rear wheel . This will get the body centered. Now, if you want to get the posts lined up straight with the body, find an approximation point of both and draw a line of best fit across the bonnet and boot to go from (try draw this from somewhere you know is straight (eg edges of the wheel square) mark the holes, ream them( before or after painting it doesnt really matter) and then get some masking tape and cover the square from the inside of the body so you can see through it after painting (front AND REAR,). After painting mount the body and make any adjustments to the marking of where the drive shaft meets the box in the front, and also now mark the rear.
For the cutting of the wheel wells, youll neet a circular cutter, make the radius 68 mm, for the front, go 1mm down and 1mm back from the point, for the rear go 1mm down from the point.
Then score a line with the circle cutter and cut the peices out of the body with sciscors.
This ensures neer perfect body position with no wheel tucking since the cut out is round and contours the wheel nicely.
I wrote this in a bit of a rush, if I havent made anything clear enough just let me know.
Id be happy to post pics when I do my next shell.
I learnt this off someone when I was eager on getting a nicely mounted shell and wheel whells, just passing on the information.
Hope this helps!!
Also the idea is that once you know the holes arw neer right on one shell, if they are a little bit out, make small adjustments to the body hole positions on your next one. (Stick one shell inside the other and make markings) this saves time and improves consistency between shells. If YOU mount them the same every time then you willl have consistent handling in regards to your setup and the you will not have the issue of the body being a factor.
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