Schumacher Mi5
#1786
Tech Regular
In response;
1) the optional rear hub plates can help with freeing the car up on tighter tracks. I tend to flick between the two groove on a track with tight hairpins, and the kit plates on a track that is more flowing. On a flowing open track, the two groove can make the car over rotate on exit a little, but does help with initial stability too. Honestly, best thing to do (as they aren't expensive) is try them. The two groove moves the outer rear link in towards the car centre 2mm, and the one groove 1mm, so shorter links than the kit plates. One good thing is that one full turn of the camber link tie rod equates to 1mm... So changing the plates is pretty quick and painless, and don't even need to use gauges (I have checked this against gauges mind)
2) I assume you mean the top deck mounts that go against the shock towers? If so, the aluminium mounts are a little stronger and stiffer, and this is more so in higher ambient temperatures, as the plastic mounts soften in heat. They also do away with any need for lock nuts, as the alu mounts are all threaded.
3) For modified, I tend to use 2000 or 3000 oil. I do have a diff with 4k ready to go. I tend to find that a thicker rear oil really helps with on power steering, although needs a better trigger finger in mod. Lower than 2k, and the car tends to diff out, IMO.
HiH
Ed
1) the optional rear hub plates can help with freeing the car up on tighter tracks. I tend to flick between the two groove on a track with tight hairpins, and the kit plates on a track that is more flowing. On a flowing open track, the two groove can make the car over rotate on exit a little, but does help with initial stability too. Honestly, best thing to do (as they aren't expensive) is try them. The two groove moves the outer rear link in towards the car centre 2mm, and the one groove 1mm, so shorter links than the kit plates. One good thing is that one full turn of the camber link tie rod equates to 1mm... So changing the plates is pretty quick and painless, and don't even need to use gauges (I have checked this against gauges mind)
2) I assume you mean the top deck mounts that go against the shock towers? If so, the aluminium mounts are a little stronger and stiffer, and this is more so in higher ambient temperatures, as the plastic mounts soften in heat. They also do away with any need for lock nuts, as the alu mounts are all threaded.
3) For modified, I tend to use 2000 or 3000 oil. I do have a diff with 4k ready to go. I tend to find that a thicker rear oil really helps with on power steering, although needs a better trigger finger in mod. Lower than 2k, and the car tends to diff out, IMO.
HiH
Ed
I tried the 2 groove link, and thought that it made the car very hard to steer, almost to agressive for my taste. When I changed back to the standard ones, I thought that the car was more easy to drive.
And regarding the top deck mounts against the shock towers, then I don't think I will spend money on them, after hearing your thoughts.
I also tried the 1000CST in the gear diff, and think the car rotates better through the corners, but on power it seems to just spin the wheels.
I can also see, that on most of the setup sheets on petit rc, the diff is with 2000 and above.
#1787
#1788
Tech Addict
#1789
Hi All,
Does anyone have a guide to making center steering on a Mi5, or is there a part you can buy .....?????
Does anyone have a guide to making center steering on a Mi5, or is there a part you can buy .....?????
#1790
Try Hard has made it
I made them myself. The ackerman plates, I just cut up a buggered chassis plate that I had from a previous car, and drew up in cad a template to mark out the new hole positions.
The rack, was also pretty simple. Firstly filled in the cut-out in the rack, by cutting a strip of carbon to size, and sanding it down to the right thickness, before Aralditing it in place. Then I drilled and tapped new holes in the middle of the rack, 8mm apart.
HiH
Ed
The rack, was also pretty simple. Firstly filled in the cut-out in the rack, by cutting a strip of carbon to size, and sanding it down to the right thickness, before Aralditing it in place. Then I drilled and tapped new holes in the middle of the rack, 8mm apart.
HiH
Ed
#1792
How many Shuie drivers going to the BIRDS?
#1794
#1795
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
Good Morning fellow mi-5 freaks......i have a question for you. I just picked up the Front true cv's for my schuey. The instructions however confused me as it says to take the retaining clips off and face them in the opposite direction. Can anyone tell me why? They seem to be nice and snug, and seem to be retaining the pins just fine. They also look like I'd have to pull them off with pliers and I'm worried it will ruin the clips.
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
#1796
Good Morning fellow mi-5 freaks......i have a question for you. I just picked up the Front true cv's for my schuey. The instructions however confused me as it says to take the retaining clips off and face them in the opposite direction. Can anyone tell me why? They seem to be nice and snug, and seem to be retaining the pins just fine. They also look like I'd have to pull them off with pliers and I'm worried it will ruin the clips.
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
..p
#1797
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
.. I would recommend doing it. It can happen that the retaining spring(s) (when mounted opposite of the direction of rotation) can briefly become 'unsprung' to the point that they move off the channel that they lay in, therefore allowing the pins to drop out , disconnecting the shaft. When the springs are mounted with the direction of rotation, they will stay in the channel as any forces applied then will serve to 'tighten' ( if you will ) the spring and keep it secure in the channel, therefore keeping the pins in place.. I usually use a small flat blade or the tip of an Exacto knife to lift the tail of the spring over the side of the outermost channel and peel it off with my thumb.. pretty easy and quick once you get it down.. hope it helps
..p
..p
#1798
#1799
Good Morning fellow mi-5 freaks......i have a question for you. I just picked up the Front true cv's for my schuey. The instructions however confused me as it says to take the retaining clips off and face them in the opposite direction. Can anyone tell me why? They seem to be nice and snug, and seem to be retaining the pins just fine. They also look like I'd have to pull them off with pliers and I'm worried it will ruin the clips.
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
Can you explain a)if this is really necessary b)how did u get off the clip without totally mutilating it and c)what is the point?
Thanks in advance
#1800
Phil would you post your setup that you ended up with at the IIC high traction.That will give us MI5 guys a place to start.