Shock Tower

I noticed the same on my Mi5.

I have been very frustrated about that sloop in the front micro caste blocks.

And I just ordered some new bearings 'still Schumacher bearings', and hopes this could solve some of the sloop.

Please keep us informed if you find any better bearings !

DiscountRCStore

Yes, .. we did find the same issue.. One of my guys is working on sourcing a bushing(s) that will fully replace the bearings as the bearings themselves are not truly necessary; the bushing can handle more 'stress' if you will without getting out of shape.. we'll keep you posted as the project develops...


..p

jdm19turn

iTrader: (1)

for those who are wanting to try the martin hoffer setup but don't want to really cut the shock shafts you can put the hot bodies 28mm shock shafts in to get the 10.5 rather than cutting and glueing the schuie ones

dvsstrike

iTrader: (9)

Yesterday Helped gdcpbdcp with car to dial it in for an upcoming race. When he arrived I straighten out his car to be square and took it for a base run. Then we installed the wildthing arm and WOW! The amount that the car freed up was insane. the car came alive and was able to transition faster through a chicane and turn in faster and easier. So to sum it up If you can get your hands on them get them I know Discountrc store is out and will have more in a few weeks.

gdcopbdcop

Tim, thanks for your help. The wild things along with the stiffer chassis and rear braces cut my lap times almost 3/4 of a second. They are awesome!
Plus the car is easy to drive, and maintain the all important corner speed needed for stock racing.

gdcopbdcop

also, if you do get the new stiffer chassis, I highly recommend that you use aluminum 3x5 mm screws for the rear arm mounts instead of the supplied steel screws. it is better to break the screws in a bad crash than to break the thinner 2mm chassis.

maybe Schumacher could pack the alum screws instead of the steel?

MattW

None of us have done any damage to the rear of the chassis when used with the braces - this is why they are included with the 2nn chassis. I'd agree, if anyone wants to use 2mm chassis with no braces, then they need to do everything they can do - and alloy screws is one of those things.

cgroves

I've actually stopped using the aluminum front screws as of this weekend and am using titanium instead. Still softer than steel but harder than aluminum. Found the aluminum screws on the front arm mounts were popping a little too frequently.

micksid

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i will be interested in these if you source any, i have just ordered some metal shielded bearings, new caster blocks, and new front hubs to try and resolve the slop in the right hand side. only had two outings!!


also thought about using a thrust bearing instead, but not ideal. bushing will be great if you can get some

dvsstrike

iTrader: (9)

Tamiya has bronze bushings in the sizes everyone is looking for the micro caster.

haywood

iTrader: (49)

I really disliked the stock top shock mount setup as it would bind up with my bleeder caps. The Wild Thing mounts really allow for free movement of the shocks. I added 3mm countersunk washers along with the provided screws that Phil at DiscountRc recommended.

Shock Tower

Any part number for the Tamiya bushing ?

G-kenny

Remove the 4deg micro castor blocks and bearing. Using a cotton bud coat the inside of the blocks where the bearings seat with super glue, 2 light coats is enough and using a pair of pliers squeeze the bearings back in, and hey presto.....No Slop

Shock Tower

Could anyone post pics of there servo and servosaver. Still are on the look out for the right combo (servo postions and saver).

My setup seems to get in the way af the tie rods going from the servosaver and from the steering rack to the left wheel. mayby I am doing a rookie mistake, so I would like to see others setup.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I am using a Tamiya heavy duty servo saver.