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Old 12-22-2013, 08:14 AM
  #1756  
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Default lower holes

Thanks Discount and Tryhard, I heard Hofer runs lower holes on his towers. Wouldn't the spring have too much pre-load then?

The steering plates are interesting, I miss being able to tune my ackerman, diff heights and arm widths....but i suppose having a car that is simpler to tune isn't all that bad either.

Tryhard, what did you use to cut/mill the carbon fiber?

Sam

Originally Posted by TryHard
You can (just) see the front brace in this picture from the ETS;
http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...hofermi5-5.jpg

Think of them as the difference between running one-piece or split blocks on other cars. So running the braces reduces the flex at that end of the car, which can change the balance and reduce the overall grip at that end.

The shock towers, look similar positions (the holes don't look lower), so thickness is probably the main thing.

Regarding the ackerman plates, I would hazard a guess that they move the mounting hole in-wards, rather than back, but worth checking that.

I've been running ackerman plates with the mounting hole moved in towards the centre of the car 1mm, based on the advice of Grainger and Matt W. I found that it helps to give the car more steering, but more linear as well (at least when used with the centre ball rack as well, easier to see here http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...hofermi5-9.jpg). I have tried plates with the hole 2mm in, but wasn't so sure on them, so have just kept the 1mm in versions on both my cars.

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Old 12-22-2013, 08:45 AM
  #1757  
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Originally Posted by dvsstrike
I recently been running the mi5 just to take a break from the dirt and have had great success with the car. My good friend gdcpbdcop has an identical set up with the only difference is the 2mm chassis. the only difference I feel is how responsive the car is. I do not like that car to be that twitchy for me. I have been preferring the stock chassis with the braces. the only complaint I have is I can't keep up with those awsomatix car on the straight it always pulls 3-4 car length every thime on the straight and it looks like he is running boost or something I have to work my ass off to catch him on the infield and always do by the time we hit straight again he is gone. my question is how can I free this thing up?
i think going to the longer wheelbase may have slowed you down a bit,,,,it feels good, but do the lap times actually speed up or slow down. as always, the clock is the true measure of something that works or doesn't work. with the new chnges that you had me put on my car, my lap times were 1/2 asec per lap faster.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle
Thanks Discount and Tryhard, I heard Hofer runs lower holes on his towers. Wouldn't the spring have too much pre-load then?

I believe the lower towers were used in conjunction with shorty shocks.. Seems all the companies are dabbling with them..


..p
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle
Try hard, what did you use to cut/mill the carbon fiber?
I simply use a Dremel with a cutting disk and grinding drum, and hand files... Nothing fancy, but using the template helps... As does working with carbon fibre everyday for my job
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Old 12-22-2013, 06:26 PM
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Default Mi5

Had a good day today club racing. Tried the Yokomo Blue's all around and went back to the standard shock cups but with 1mm vent hole drilled in the plastic cap! Finished 2nd in the A Main!
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:11 PM
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I'm curious how you locate the new holes accurately without using a mill or drill press?

I could see tracing the outline and mounting holes, but the new link holes...I got some old associated carbon fiber oval chassis's I can hack up.


Originally Posted by TryHard
I simply use a Dremel with a cutting disk and grinding drum, and hand files... Nothing fancy, but using the template helps... As does working with carbon fibre everyday for my job
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle
I'm curious how you locate the new holes accurately without using a mill or drill press?

I could see tracing the outline and mounting holes, but the new link holes...I got some old associated carbon fiber oval chassis's I can hack up.
Easy enough. On the template, I draw a centre cross, and then use a scribe to mark the centre position, which then allows the centre hole drill bit to locate properly. Although I do us a drill press to drill them properly mind, just helps the location of the holes.

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Old 12-23-2013, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dvsstrike
I recently been running the mi5 just to take a break from the dirt and have had great success with the car. My good friend gdcpbdcop has an identical set up with the only difference is the 2mm chassis. the only difference I feel is how responsive the car is. I do not like that car to be that twitchy for me. I have been preferring the stock chassis with the braces. the only complaint I have is I can't keep up with those awsomatix car on the straight it always pulls 3-4 car length every thime on the straight and it looks like he is running boost or something I have to work my ass off to catch him on the infield and always do by the time we hit straight again he is gone. my question is how can I free this thing up?
gearing (lower fdr), or maybe less rr toe (.5 degree) or looser belt, chck bearings
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by poochy
gearing (lower fdr), or maybe less rr toe (.5 degree) or looser belt, chck bearings
I did free up the car and tested yesterday and made a difference. will see on Saturday.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:04 AM
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Ran last night in stock/mod on med grip carpet. Let me say cutting the arms made a much bigger difference than i thought. It's hard to describe but it settled the car in high speed and rolled better through low speed sections. Our track is bumpy and med-low grip at times. Yok blue front springs also felt good in stock, although my lap times were the same if not a little worse. Would like to try a spring in between a pink and blue....cheers.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle
Ran last night in stock/mod on med grip carpet. Let me say cutting the arms made a much bigger difference than i thought. It's hard to describe but it settled the car in high speed and rolled better through low speed sections. Our track is bumpy and med-low grip at times. Yok blue front springs also felt good in stock, although my lap times were the same if not a little worse. Would like to try a spring in between a pink and blue....cheers.
Some considerations that we've tested with:

Schumacher 'Blue' U4305
Yokomo Yellow - Tested harder but felt softer than pinks on the car
Ride 2.5


Hope it helps..!

..p
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:51 PM
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how many you guys plan on running at the birds
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:37 AM
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The car was on point this Saturday. and the car was more free than the week before. car was on pace with the top guys. Going to free up some more with aluminum axles and grey belts.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:20 AM
  #1769  
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Originally Posted by dvsstrike
The car was on point this Saturday. and the car was more free than the week before. car was on pace with the top guys. Going to free up some more with aluminum axles and grey belts.
What did you do to free the car up?
What setup are you running
Thanks
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_g
C-hub setup? Do tell? C-hubs up front?
Like this.....
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Mi5-005.jpg  
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