TRF101
#751

If your willing to pay almost 150 bucks more then overseas charges they have them in stock at tower.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...f101&search=Go
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...f101&search=Go
#753
Tech Master

They are exactly the same bearing. The difference is that 51346 includes the spring washers and spacer used for mounting it on an F103. The complete thrust bearing assembly on an F103 is mounted inside the wheel, you need a thrust bearing assembly for each pair of rear wheels, so the pack includes all the parts needed.
#754
#755
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)

When gluing the tires, there's two different thickness lips on the Shimizu tires. Which side gets glued to the outside, the thick or thinner lip? I would think the wider lip since that has more lateral forces to deal with.
Overall the build has gone great, with the exception of me losing the spur gear spacer. When installing the one piece thrust bearing with the thrust balls, does it just replace the disk springs and differential spacer?
Getting my servo on Sunday and will hopefully get to drive by next Sunday. Thanks for the help on here so far ad I'm sure I'll run in to more as I get track time.
Overall the build has gone great, with the exception of me losing the spur gear spacer. When installing the one piece thrust bearing with the thrust balls, does it just replace the disk springs and differential spacer?
Getting my servo on Sunday and will hopefully get to drive by next Sunday. Thanks for the help on here so far ad I'm sure I'll run in to more as I get track time.
#756
Tech Fanatic

When gluing the tires, there's two different thickness lips on the Shimizu tires. Which side gets glued to the outside, the thick or thinner lip? I would think the wider lip since that has more lateral forces to deal with.
Overall the build has gone great, with the exception of me losing the spur gear spacer. When installing the one piece thrust bearing with the thrust balls, does it just replace the disk springs and differential spacer?
Getting my servo on Sunday and will hopefully get to drive by next Sunday. Thanks for the help on here so far ad I'm sure I'll run in to more as I get track time.
Overall the build has gone great, with the exception of me losing the spur gear spacer. When installing the one piece thrust bearing with the thrust balls, does it just replace the disk springs and differential spacer?
Getting my servo on Sunday and will hopefully get to drive by next Sunday. Thanks for the help on here so far ad I'm sure I'll run in to more as I get track time.
The diff springs and spacer are still needed but the diff springs need to be mounted like this way )( (they need to be mounted the other way then stated in the manual)
If you would mount the diff springs as stated in the manual the thrust bearing wouldn't work well.
#757
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)

Has anyone fitted the exotek front end to the TRF and if so is it the same set-up as for the F104.
I'm over popping out aluminum balls from both top and bottom of the front arms so looking to go back to something more reliable while losing nothing in performance (steering wise).
I'm over popping out aluminum balls from both top and bottom of the front arms so looking to go back to something more reliable while losing nothing in performance (steering wise).
#759
Tech Master

Take your pick from 51346 and 53136, whichever is available. 51346 gives you a spare pair of disk springs.
They are exactly the same bearing. The difference is that 51346 includes the spring washers and spacer used for mounting it on an F103. The complete thrust bearing assembly on an F103 is mounted inside the wheel, you need a thrust bearing assembly for each pair of rear wheels, so the pack includes all the parts needed.
#760

Hi.
How do you adjust the rear pod droop? Also, how does this affect the car's handling?
Thanks.
How do you adjust the rear pod droop? Also, how does this affect the car's handling?
Thanks.
#761
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)

The rear droop is first set with the spacers inside the pitch shock body. Set the droop to about 1 to 1.5 mm. Then you can adjust more by changing the piston rod length by turning the plastic part that goes on the ball joint.
More droop means more transfer of weight to front when the car slows. Too little weight transfer may cause understeer and too much may cause oversteer.
You want the front droop and rear droop within about 1 mm of each other.
Read in details here.
More droop means more transfer of weight to front when the car slows. Too little weight transfer may cause understeer and too much may cause oversteer.
You want the front droop and rear droop within about 1 mm of each other.
Read in details here.
#762
Tech Fanatic

I finally got the invoice from stellamodels, now i have to wait to get the car delivered and i look forward to build and to get it to the track.
#764
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)

Got the car finished, just have to finish the body. Without the body, but with the wings, I'm coming in at 1016 grams. How much is the body going to add? I have weights from my offroad car and will play with adding weight once I can get to the track. Unfortunately he track I want to run at isn't open on two of my three days off. Thanks for the help with pointers about the car, they've helped a lot. I'm sure a lot more will come up with wheel time.
#765

Got the car finished, just have to finish the body. Without the body, but with the wings, I'm coming in at 1016 grams. How much is the body going to add? I have weights from my offroad car and will play with adding weight once I can get to the track. Unfortunately he track I want to run at isn't open on two of my three days off. Thanks for the help with pointers about the car, they've helped a lot. I'm sure a lot more will come up with wheel time.