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Old 08-16-2013, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by simmo0916 View Post
[URL=http://s170.photobucket.com/user/simmo0916/media/fuckup1_zpsac8f0851.jpg.html][IMG]

Completely messed this up! And of course dont have access to a drill!

Just for comparison - The opposite side threaded fine:


Someone help! I feel like a right twat!

Without a drill or vice grips or a dremel, Is there any way to remove this?
If not, Is there a 3rd party part to replace the body mount plate, or does anyone know when spares will become available for the TRF101?

Cheers guys!
Use a dremel cutting wheel
Cut a slot in one end
Un-screw with flat blade driver
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Use a dremel cutting wheel
Cut a slot in one end
Un-screw with flat blade driver
I dont have access to a Dremel!

I will have to ask around, see if any of my friends have anything that will work.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:11 PM
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Couldn't you just grab one end with needles nose pliers hold on tight and unscrew it out ?
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:17 PM
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Gutted for you, but as noted above, a decent set of pliers could help. Grab the end of the grub screw firmly and twist it gently and it will screw through. Take your time and the more it screws through the easier it will be to do. Just take your time.
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by simmo0916 View Post

Someone help! I feel like a right twat!

Without a drill or vice grips or a dremel, Is there any way to remove this?
If not, Is there a 3rd party part to replace the body mount plate, or does anyone know when spares will become available for the TRF101?

Cheers guys!
Hi, So if you don't have any of the other tools can I assume you used an 'L' allen key? If so then discard it asap. I bet if you acquired/ borrowed a quality 1.5mm hex WRENCH the set screw will come right out. Allen keys have terrible tolereances and round out if you look crossed eyed at them. A proper allen WRENCH always gets the job done even when the set screw looks wrecked.
If all else fails drive to the local race track on race day and I know someone there can get the screw out in no time for you

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Old 08-16-2013, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by simmo0916 View Post
I dont have access to a Dremel!
I have removed a rounded grub before by using some CA glue on a tip of an allen key wrench that came with the kit, allow it to dry and bond with the screw.. I use a separate hex driver for working on my cars - and reserve the kit supplied ones for such emergency use.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by macavant View Post
I have removed a rounded grub before by using some CA glue on a tip of an allen key wrench that came with the kit, allow it to dry and bond with the screw.. I use a separate hex driver for working on my cars - and reserve the kit supplied ones for such emergency use.
that's a really good idea for any rounded out screw, I like that!
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:09 AM
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Many thanks for all the suggestions guys - Managed to get my hands on a dremel yesterday and its out!
It threads a little too easily now, but nothing a little thread lock didnt fix. So the chassis build is now complete!
This is turning into a good learning process!
Next step - Learn how to solder
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by simmo0916 View Post
Many thanks for all the suggestions guys - Managed to get my hands on a dremel yesterday and its out!
It threads a little too easily now, but nothing a little thread lock didnt fix. So the chassis build is now complete!
This is turning into a good learning process!
Next step - Learn how to solder
This link may be useful
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:44 AM
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Getting this car in my hands soon. Quick question if I want to run this body do I need a different lower chassis?http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com/vf1-bodyset/
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Getting this car in my hands soon. Quick question if I want to run this body do I need a different lower chassis?http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com/vf1-bodyset/
Well you could probably get away with that body ...i have one myself but i fit it on an old f104.....i felt it would be a waste to turn a trf 101 into a vf1.....also the guys running vf1 use a kit with collapsable arms.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Getting this car in my hands soon. Quick question if I want to run this body do I need a different lower chassis?http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com/vf1-bodyset/
The TRF101 and the F104 V2 are too wide for the VF1 body.

I know there is another vintage body in the works, perhaps it will be better for V2/101
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:01 PM
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Thanks guys. My kit arrives friday any other hop ups, spares needed? This is my first time building a pan car (needs a lot of attention while building to reduce tweak I hear) and I got into on road like 2 months ago.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:30 PM
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Hey alok, hope to see you running F1 with us at Norcal soon!

The only spares I would get is the RM-01 carbon side links set. In fact, I would try to put them on right away on your kit build. I'm still waiting for TQRC to get more in stock. You can keep the stock ones as spares. The links and the center piece holding the chassis and rear pod together are the only spares you will need. It is a super tough car. I would also pick up an extra side spring set as they can sometimes get lost in a bad crash.

If you are using TCS/Pit tires, get some 2mm (QTY 7) spacers so you can fix the ride height.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:02 PM
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Thanks Dan for the tips. Yeah for norcal looking forward to it! Whats the hot motor at norcal team powers short can or I was thinking D3.5 maxzilla seems to have the most rpm 2900kv I believe! Also shorty I assume would still make weight at our track?

PS these ones ?
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2908

They are in stock now
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