1/12 1/10.....
#47
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
well, i guess 1/12 is worth the try....the lesser cost alone makes it worth it but......have anyone tried running 1/12 in concrete? would like to know coz thats our track here.....also, its a bit bumpy.....
#48
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by cooliomojo-CEBU
well, i guess 1/12 is worth the try....the lesser cost alone makes it worth it but......have anyone tried running 1/12 in concrete? would like to know coz thats our track here.....also, its a bit bumpy.....
well, i guess 1/12 is worth the try....the lesser cost alone makes it worth it but......have anyone tried running 1/12 in concrete? would like to know coz thats our track here.....also, its a bit bumpy.....
#49
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
A 12th scale car is very simple, as long as it was assembled properly, it will go straight, and as long as you have decent tires it will drive well, it may push, or it may oversteer slightly, but generally a manufacturer's kit set-up will be very smooth and easy to drive. Unfortuantely smooth and easy to drive doesn't always correlate to maximum cornerspeed. This is where the fine art of set-up becomes important. God is in the details. A very minor dampening change in the shock or tubes/pucks can totally change the behavior of the car. The trick is to find the proper balance. Changes made to Touring Car set-ups seem to affect the overall feel of the car less, i.e. you have to make a more substantial change to the camber/caster to get the same pronounced effect you would on a 12th scaler.
It's all just trial and error though, and 12th scale will teach you things about racing lines and driving that no other class can.
A 12th scale car is very simple, as long as it was assembled properly, it will go straight, and as long as you have decent tires it will drive well, it may push, or it may oversteer slightly, but generally a manufacturer's kit set-up will be very smooth and easy to drive. Unfortuantely smooth and easy to drive doesn't always correlate to maximum cornerspeed. This is where the fine art of set-up becomes important. God is in the details. A very minor dampening change in the shock or tubes/pucks can totally change the behavior of the car. The trick is to find the proper balance. Changes made to Touring Car set-ups seem to affect the overall feel of the car less, i.e. you have to make a more substantial change to the camber/caster to get the same pronounced effect you would on a 12th scaler.
It's all just trial and error though, and 12th scale will teach you things about racing lines and driving that no other class can.
Given a chance watch a decent 1/12 and then a TC or 1/8 gas, 4wd is like being in your mothers arms, something to make you feel secure.
It would be even better for 1/12 if they considered running maybe 2 to 4 minutes longer for heats, go 15 minutes and let those TC turnmarshals enjoy the view of a race three times what theirs is. We've been running 8 minutes since like the 1000mah and 1200mah days. The batteries are three times more capacity, the cars are lighter, the tires are worlds better and last forever compared to our one run tires of old, and the tracks seem to be quite wide so tourers with understeer can make the corner without peeling decals from both sides of the body just to roll thru the turn.
Maybe TC's should only run 4wd if the body style of the original full size car is 4wd. If not you go 2wd. And like an Audi of old, let the 4wd carry more weight. What a conecpt a TC that would need to steer thru a turn rather than be pulled around it.
OK I'm done.
PK
#50
speaking of 10th scale.. the big brown truck should be dropping off my (smelly 'new' in box) 10L2. Time for some more fun.
#51
Originally posted by PMK
4wd is like being in your mothers arms, something to make you feel secure.
4wd is like being in your mothers arms, something to make you feel secure.
Your kidding me. I feel ten times more secure with a 12th scale than a TC. Why? Because unlike the TC, the 12th scale handles