Ace212

Hey guys, unfortunatly i have just found this world of rc! i WISH i had investigated yearss ago, ive owned a car or 2 when i was younger (10 or so years ago) but nothing like it is today! I have ordered a sonic 64 plane from hobbyking and a car chassis elsewhere.

Ive been doind alot of research and just beggining to understand how the batteries work and what those numbers mean, its still a little confusing tho, thats why im here for some freindly advice!

im looking at a combo which hopefully will work together and not blow up lol so im going to ask you more expercienced guys here first! ok here goes:

Battery:
ZIPPY Compact 2700mAh 5S 35C Lipo Pack


ESC:
Hobby King 150A High performance Brushless Car ESC
Specification:
Cont./Burst Current: 150A/1080A
Resistance: 0.0002 ohm
Suitable Car: 1/5, 1/8 on-road and off-road cars / trucks For competitive race
Suitable Brushless Motor: 3.5T (3660)
Battery: 6-18 cells Ni-xx (NiMH / NiCd) 2-6 cells Li-Po
BEC Output: 6V/3A of switch mode built-in BEC
Motor Type: Sensorless and sensored brushless motor (2 Pole Only)
Dimension: 55(W)*60(L) *40(H)
Weight: 150g

Motor:
Viper R/C VST9.5 Modified Brushless Motor
Turns: 9.5
kV: 3,600
Watts: 270
Case Length: 2.12 in. (53.80mm)
Case Diameter: 1.42 in. (36.00mm)
Shaft Length: 2.6 in. (13.8mm)
Shaft Extension: 0.58 in. (14.8mm)
Weight: 6.35oz (180g)


amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1889_222_2851_2853_2860/products_id/194226/n/Viper-R-C-VST95-Modified-Brushless-Motor-95T

viper-rc.com/vst


Is this going to work together? is it a nice combo? will it not blow up in my face lol? If it will what specs from this motor wont blow in my face lol?

On the viper rc webpage ive linked to above, it has all the different motor sizes/variations, so what would work with this battery and esc well??

Thanks very much in advance for every one who has spent time helping me out as i GREATLY appreciate it!

Thanks again! Ace..

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

The motor ESC combo is fine together. What car are you running it in? The battery you listed is a small 5 cell battery that looks to be more for airplanes or heli's. you want a 2-3 cell battery for your car depending on what you going to be doing. If your racing the. It will most likely be a 2s battery that you want. Somewhere on the 5000-6000 mah range. First things first though. What car and wht are you doing with it? Racing or bashing.

Ace212

why wont it let me post lol has to be approved by mods? i dont get it what have i done wrong?

Newys ill write it all again!! how annoying!! ARGGG

sakura d3, using for drift/bash, want it to be fast as the chassis could be, after this ill get a buggy with size for big battery 6s or 8s, but gotta start somewhere!

Im bit lost with the batteries tho, i understand how to find the amperage but how does a 4s have a amp rating of 180 then the 5s have an amp rating of 100, how does that work? the voltage must play a part aswell in feeding the esc,

im looking at these two batteries:

ZIPPY Compact 2700mAh 5S 35C Lipo Pack
Turnigy nano-tech 4000mah 4S 45~90C Lipo Pack

what can each one run constant?

Why would i want a 2s or 3s instead of a decent 4s like the turnigy mentioned above?

Im pretty much looking for the most power i can fit in this chassis, im not going to thrash it and strip the belts, i just want it there to use gently but quickly, u know what i mean. Thanks!


sorry last post was alot more detailed but im not writing the whole thing again, idk y it didnt let me post the mods hav to approve it first.. wat for i havent done anything wrong!

sosidge

10th scale on-road cars (like your Sakura) are built for 2s batteries in a standard sized hardcase and 540-size motors. ESC and motor should be sensored if possible for better driving feel.

Trust me, you have no need for more than 2s as you will get a car to go more than fast enough with that voltage.

Drift cars don't need power anyway, just enough to break traction, so you only need a mild motor.

My advice would be to speak to your local, knowledgeable hobby shop and see what they can supply rather than buying blind from a mail order supplier.

Ace212

Oh i forgot i dont only want to drift with this one, i wouldnt mind having a set of road tyres too to go for bit more speed then with those slippery ass drift tyres..

thats what i mean with these chassis you could make these battries i listed fit couldnt you?

i want about 80kph at lest out of it with grip tyres, if its possible of course..

when ive finished this one ill start on buggy straight away and i want the buggy to go 100mph+ price is not a problem.

thanks guys!

Ace212

i have just been looking at an 80a esc combo with Turnigy TrackStar 4250kv motor on youtube, but it just doesnt seem enough, ill get it and put under my bed and quickly build the buggy, i want both, not a slow ass road rc and a very fast buggy..


whats a good 4s setup? im thinking around 120a esc, what is the best setup i can run with this battery in this chassis:
Turnigy nano-tech 4000mah 4S 45~90C Lipo Pack
sakur d3?

thanks guys.

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

You get all the speed you need with a 2s battery and a lower turn motor. Running a 3s or higher battery in a 10th scale car you risk blowing up a motor or ESC. If you want speed then you can get a 4.5 turn motir and gear it correctly and you can run 60+ mph.

cgroves

100mph in a straight line? Forget the buggy it isn't designed with suspension or aero to be stable at those speeds, go buy an XO-1 and find some empty asphalt well away from anybody or anything else. Realize there is a 99% chance you will write it off in the first day at those speeds. Go look on youtube and search for XO-1 and you'll find hours and hours of video of people converting XO-1s into plastic debris.

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

A 4s setup is more for 1/8 th s ale buggies and triggers. A sedan chassis is not designed to fit that large of a battery. You will have too much weight on one side and the. Will need to add a ton to the other to balance it. So then you have added so much weight that its a brick.

Ace212

this is why i want a decent d3 to get used to! im not gonna put a 2s in it then use it once n be ike WTF have i wasted my time on and never use it again! i want something to get used to so i wont leave the 100mph+ one in peices..

I dont like the xo1, there are PLENTY of buggies that run 100mph+ on youtube so why forget it? if everyone is doing it how will it not work? thats just stupid to say that when there are thousands of videos with people doing it, thanks for the advice mate..


So whats a good 4s setup to use with that battery:
Turnigy nano-tech 4000mah 4S 45~90C Lipo Pack?

I dont understand how people try and wreck other peoples ideas are they just jelous they dont have a fund big enough to make a fast rc car like this? or they want to be the only one? either way NOT COOL!

Ace212

This chassis has the battery going across for even weight distribution and the engine is at the front aswell:

ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156384

(wont let me post images so copy and paste thanks!)

I totally understand what your saying, thats why i went with this chassis caus i knew it would be able to handle the extra weight without making it off centered!

ok this battery will fit fine
Turnigy nano-tech 4400mah 3S 65~130C Lipo Pack

i should be able to run any 120a esc and low turn motor shouldnt i?
Ill do some searching around and find a nice combo and post it up a bit later for some second opinions!

Thanks for your advice/help jerz616!

cgroves

Then you misunderstand both my intentions and what I said. All the best and good luck on your project.

Galeleo

iTrader: (3)

Ace, please do not take this the wrong way, and I am definately not trying to stifle your ideas and plans....but....

I just purchased the Sakura D3 CS and it is a very fun car to drift! This car is geared and designed to drift and only drift out of the box. The rear tires will spin two revolutions for every one revolution of turn of the front wheels. This allows the vehicle to drift and as a result the driver must learn how to counter steer in order to keep control of the drift.

That being said, I would recommend only using 2S batteries and no more than a 10.5T Brushless motor in this kit. It will be more than enough power and speed for drifting. If you do use 3S batteries and a more powerfull motor you will risk snapping belts and stripping pulleys and otherwise causing damage to the drivetrain of the car. You will be eating money like crazy fixing it. Quite simply, the car is not designed for it out of the box. If you pour money into the chassis, it will take it, but for that amount of money, you could buy a higher quality kit.

Now, if you are wanting to do speed runs, you will have to spend some extra money and buy the proper pulleys to get the gearing to 50:50, which means the front tires spin at the same rate as the rears.

You will like this chassis, but make sure you understand the chassis you are buying. If you are wanting to drift and do speed runs, you may want to look at the Sakura Zero or the Zero IX (new version due for release in june). This chassis is in the same price range as the D3 and is just as capable. The Zero is a 50:50 onroad race car, but can be configured to drift.

Make sure you do some more reading, especially in the threads of the kits you are planning on buying so that you do not get caught buying something you wont enjoy or wont be able to enjoy.

If you have any questions as to what I purchased, PM and I will give you part numbers and links so that you can further your research.

I bid you good luck and good skill in your endevours!

Ace212

Read what im asking/talking about..

Dont just scan over it and go arhgg blaa blaa..

HOW ARE THERE LOADS OF BUGGYS CRACKING 120-130MPH IF YOU SHOULD "FORGET ABOUT IT"?

im sure these people that are doing it DID NOT forget about it, rather they researched and asked people what to do to get where they are..

Ace212

Thanks Galeleo! To be honest i have always been worried about the belts stripping and the d/train being weak, but im really into drift i own a 180sx type x in real life and i want a drift rc that looks exactly the same! Thats why i went with this in the first place, i might just go with a 80a exc/motor combo from turnigy, and focus on a very fast one instead of putting more focus into this one, you are right i dont want to have to keep on changing belts/ drivetrain parts, but i have seen all the upgrades available for the d3 and there are LOADS! so im sure it could be turned into something that it is not from factory, but i might just calm down on this one, get it finished looking like my real 180sx (240 for you guys) and focus on a bulletproof chassis/drivetrain for HIGH speed runs! thanks heaps for your time and knowledge i appreciate it, the other bloke just tried to shut me down on a 100mph buggy but ive seen soooo many crack it so im not going to just forget about it lol! thanks man!