52LikesLet's Talk Modified
04-23-2014, 09:36 AM
#331
When my local track just started running mod, a couple of guys ran boosted/turbo'd 10.5s to try and learn first. It helps, but running lots of timing/boost on the ESC led to overheating on both the ESC and the motor.
Since then, almost everyone has gone to a 4.5/5.0 for our medium carpet track. The ESC stays cooler cuz you don't need it doing as much work and the powerband is a bit more predictable to me.
I ran a 5.5 that I boosted in mod, and even just switching to a 5.0, I ran it in blinky for a while and got faster.
Since then, almost everyone has gone to a 4.5/5.0 for our medium carpet track. The ESC stays cooler cuz you don't need it doing as much work and the powerband is a bit more predictable to me.
I ran a 5.5 that I boosted in mod, and even just switching to a 5.0, I ran it in blinky for a while and got faster.
Skiddins
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01-28-2015, 01:29 PM
#332
I have got to give this a bump.
Where would you time a 4.0 or 4.5 turn mod? I recently got a new 4.0 I intend to run in 1/12 scale but I tested the factory setting on my Motor Checker and it was only 21 degrees of timing, probably too low so I bumped it up to 32 degrees.
I know turbo and boost solve all problems of the car not stretching the legs at the end of the straight and scaring the turn marshal but I'm just curious.
Where would you time a 4.0 or 4.5 turn mod? I recently got a new 4.0 I intend to run in 1/12 scale but I tested the factory setting on my Motor Checker and it was only 21 degrees of timing, probably too low so I bumped it up to 32 degrees.
I know turbo and boost solve all problems of the car not stretching the legs at the end of the straight and scaring the turn marshal but I'm just curious.
01-28-2015, 02:00 PM
#333
I have got to give this a bump.
Where would you time a 4.0 or 4.5 turn mod? I recently got a new 4.0 I intend to run in 1/12 scale but I tested the factory setting on my Motor Checker and it was only 21 degrees of timing, probably too low so I bumped it up to 32 degrees.
I know turbo and boost solve all problems of the car not stretching the legs at the end of the straight and scaring the turn marshal but I'm just curious.
Where would you time a 4.0 or 4.5 turn mod? I recently got a new 4.0 I intend to run in 1/12 scale but I tested the factory setting on my Motor Checker and it was only 21 degrees of timing, probably too low so I bumped it up to 32 degrees.
I know turbo and boost solve all problems of the car not stretching the legs at the end of the straight and scaring the turn marshal but I'm just curious.
around 25-27t x 96t 64p
03-05-2016, 09:41 PM
#334
Are people starting to race some more mod?
Tip: If your car has too much punch, go into your radio and turn down the servo speed in the throttle direction. I found that even a barely perceptible amount in the radio gave a lot more control on the track.
Tip: If your car has too much punch, go into your radio and turn down the servo speed in the throttle direction. I found that even a barely perceptible amount in the radio gave a lot more control on the track.
03-06-2016, 07:47 PM
#335
I don't see why there's not a big following for Mod Sedan in the SoCal region.
In regards to punch control, I usually adjust settings in the esc to turn down punch or just not charge all the way to 8.4v
Last edited by RC Passion; 03-06-2016 at 08:11 PM.
03-07-2016, 01:26 AM
#336
Another tip for limiting the power in mod is to charge your lipo only to e.g. 4.05V pr. cell, or even lower.
This also takes the initial peak in the lipo and provides a more stable and manageable power.
Used by several pro drivers, especially indoor.
This also takes the initial peak in the lipo and provides a more stable and manageable power.
Used by several pro drivers, especially indoor.
