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Old 08-10-2013, 03:58 AM   #316
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I actually did some driving for the first time last night with a 5T and boosted Tekin, did so on my home track which is a rather large nitro track, was crazy fast, played with some less or no boost profiles, they did not seem to really give the speed I felt I would need.

Got to say driving a boosted car is like nothing else, any setting you throw on the car seems somewhat overwhelmed by the level of power, can't say I think it was an ounce faster than I get round the track with a blinky 10.5T, but it looks way more impressive.
The bigger the track, the easier it is to go faster with a Mod.

Do it when there's a timing loop down and see what happens.
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:37 AM   #317
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The bigger the track, the easier it is to go faster with a Mod.

Do it when there's a timing loop down and see what happens.
We have 24/7 timing access at our track, wifi in the pits with a straight feed to an always on decoder, laptop or phone app and you always having timing access...
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:27 AM   #318
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Oh crap am I going to miss outdoor season for mod TC! And I was finally starting to like my driving outside.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:53 AM   #319
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Whats the wear rate/durability like on the drivetrain running current booster mod motors? I stopped racing mod when we were still on 11t brushed
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:01 AM   #320
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Whats the wear rate/durability like on the drivetrain running current booster mod motors? I stopped racing mod when we were still on 11t brushed
I'm not a perfectionist but I like my cars to work proper and if I need to replace parts due to wear then I do. However, I think that depends on where you run and how often you meet the boards. I run Mod outdoor on a large track and have very little wear on anything. I find that I have more wear from board contact running 17.5 indoor as nobody in this area runs mod inside. I've ran several practice days indoor with mod motors and didn't find the wear to be anything to worry about.

So, for me mod doesn't wear stuff abnormally compared to the spec classes. You certainly open the door for more outright parts breakage but even that has been pretty limited for me.
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:51 PM   #321
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Hey guy what would be a good cheap car for TC mod racing?

I was thinking of picking up an old Xray 009 any thoughts.

I have a TC4 but I'd rather keep that setup for stock racing.

I'm looking for a car that will handle the mod power but you can still find parts for that's not two expensive.

Many thanks....
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:34 PM   #322
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Hey guy what would be a good cheap car for TC mod racing?

I was thinking of picking up an old Xray 009 any thoughts.

I have a TC4 but I'd rather keep that setup for stock racing.

I'm looking for a car that will handle the mod power but you can still find parts for that's not two expensive.

Many thanks....
A 009 would work, but you'd be better off with a T3'12 or even a T4 if you can find one.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:00 PM   #323
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Sorry for bumping this, but I have a couple questions about modified classes at ROAR Nationals, if anyone can offer insight. Essentially, I am curious how the approved motors/rotors/etc guidelines are approached for the modified classes. You can't help but notice that there are ROAR-approved modified motors, along with various appropriate rotors. However, if you read the ROAR rulebook, you will see the following:

Quote:
8.5.3 Motor Manufacturers are offering optional or tuning rotors for brushless motors.
Many of these rotors may not be approved products for use in ROAR
sanctioned events. The only rotors ROAR Approved for any BL motor, are the
one(s) submitted during the original motor approval process.
Importers/Manufacturers may include any Option/Tuning Rotors for inspection
and listing, when motor samples are submitted, or they can submit at a later
date for inclusion.
8.5.3.1 For our Affiliate Importers/Manufacturers who have developed
Option/Tuning Rotors and wish to add them to stock/super Stock class
motors, should contact ROAR and the Motor Lab immediately to have these
items considered for approval. The Motor Lab will require 3 rotors and a list
of the winds in which they are being offered. Each rotor must include the
appropriate part number of the tuning and original rotor.
8.5.3.2 For our Members using Tuning Rotors be advised, ROAR Technical
Inspection Team will treat Rotor Inspection as a serious part of race
inspection at the nationals and all of the technical data from the original
Motor/Rotor Submissions is cataloged. The Inspection Team has and will
continue to deny the use of non-approved "option" rotors at ROAR Nationals
because they have not been submitted for inspection by the Manufacturer.
Note that this specifically says quite a lot about needing stock/super-stock tuning rotors to be approved, but nothing about modified rotors. Now, shortly afterwards in the rulebook there are the specific rules for modified and stock rotors, where the only rule for the modified rotors is that the shaft size must be 0.125".

At the heart of it my question is whether you have to run ROAR-approved motors/rotors at ROAR carpet nationals in any of the mod classes? If not, why do they even bother with ROAR-approval for mod motors and rotors?

(If you can't guess, I want to use a rotor that currently isn't approved but can't figure out whether that is actually allowed or not. Looking at pictures of cars from 2013 nats I can't see approval stickers on motors, which seems to lend credence to the idea that motors aren't teched...or the photos are at the wrong angle?)

Thanks for any help, sorry for the (likely) straightforward question.

EDIT: Word on the street from those in the know is that the motor/rotor not being approved is perfectly fine. Which begs the question...why bother gaining ROAR-approval for mod motors to begin with?
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Last edited by LloydLoar; 01-09-2014 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:43 PM   #324
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Yeah I am thinking about how to answer already!

For now I will say that I have been thinking about how to create a limiting device that a driver can attach to his transmitter so that there is some mechanical feel in the trigger to indicate where certain throttle positions are. Back in the "throttle driving" days of 1/12 - when drivers would basically overpower there cars and use less than full throttle at the beginning of the race to conserve energy - I remember sticking a small pad to the back of my trigger so that I could feel where 90% (for example) of the trigger position was. To get full throttle you would simply squeeze and compress the foam on demand.

This could be a potential training method for TC mod driving. At the ROAR Nats in Horsham, I never used full throttle in the infield. I would estimate no more than 75%. I feel that a driver could use the same foam method to indicate a 75% throttle position to help keep the trigger finger in check in the infield and only when on the straight pull full throttle.

There is still the problem about getting to that point because you would still have to be smoother than with a spec motor but it could be a place to start.

Different equipment (motors and ESCs) act differently and choosing the right setup will make a huge difference. More detail to follow.
I searched this thread for any update on Ricks foam idea, anyone using this with success?
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:56 PM   #325
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I searched this thread for any update on Ricks foam idea, anyone using this with success?
Yup, and it really worked well for me.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:10 PM   #326
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 View Post
Hey guy what would be a good cheap car for TC mod racing?

I was thinking of picking up an old Xray 009 any thoughts.

I have a TC4 but I'd rather keep that setup for stock racing.

I'm looking for a car that will handle the mod power but you can still find parts for that's not two expensive.

Many thanks....
Eric hit me up cell got wipe lost all contacts & I might have what your looking for
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:22 PM   #327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Sorry for bumping this, but I have a couple questions about modified classes at ROAR Nationals, if anyone can offer insight. Essentially, I am curious how the approved motors/rotors/etc guidelines are approached for the modified classes. You can't help but notice that there are ROAR-approved modified motors, along with various appropriate rotors. However, if you read the ROAR rulebook, you will see the following:



Note that this specifically says quite a lot about needing stock/super-stock tuning rotors to be approved, but nothing about modified rotors. Now, shortly afterwards in the rulebook there are the specific rules for modified and stock rotors, where the only rule for the modified rotors is that the shaft size must be 0.125".

At the heart of it my question is whether you have to run ROAR-approved motors/rotors at ROAR carpet nationals in any of the mod classes? If not, why do they even bother with ROAR-approval for mod motors and rotors?

(If you can't guess, I want to use a rotor that currently isn't approved but can't figure out whether that is actually allowed or not. Looking at pictures of cars from 2013 nats I can't see approval stickers on motors, which seems to lend credence to the idea that motors aren't teched...or the photos are at the wrong angle?)

Thanks for any help, sorry for the (likely) straightforward question.

EDIT: Word on the street from those in the know is that the motor/rotor not being approved is perfectly fine. Which begs the question...why bother gaining ROAR-approval for mod motors to begin with?
I had the exact same questions as you did at Horsham last year. Maybe it was because they were way behind, but I don't recall them tearing the motor down. I certainly didn't get it sealed or any approval sticker on it. The feeling I got was the same as yours - No one cares because you can overpower the car so badly by just motoring/timing/boosting/gearing up and the feel can be adjusted nearly infinitely through legal rotors/timing/gearing/boosting. Maybe I was naive, but I just went with it.

As to why mod motors are approved in the first place, I dunno. It might be different on large asphalt tracks? Or might be a requirement for IFMAR/EFRA etc homologation purposes?

Looking forward to mastering mod with a new crop of drivers. See ya at Nats CH.

AWD
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:44 AM   #328
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Heat question. Any pattern of hotter/cooler when comparing low-turn with little timing vs. high-turn with lots of timing?

Stuttering: can this happen with lots of end-bell timing applied? Lots of timing in general applied?
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:53 AM   #329
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Heat question. Any pattern of hotter/cooler when comparing low-turn with little timing vs. high-turn with lots of timing?

Stuttering: can this happen with lots of end-bell timing applied? Lots of timing in general applied?
Generally speaking in mod the endbell timing is left low and turbo/boost are added in the esc. It's my belief that adding endbell timing is less efficient than esc timing and adds heat.

Normally I run a 4.5t but I have run in 10.5 boosted. I've never adjusted endbell timing with the 4.5 but the 10.5 definitely prefers esc timing over motor timing.
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:34 AM   #330
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Originally Posted by SamuraiJack View Post
Heat question. Any pattern of hotter/cooler when comparing low-turn with little timing vs. high-turn with lots of timing?

Stuttering: can this happen with lots of end-bell timing applied? Lots of timing in general applied?
When my local track just started running mod, a couple of guys ran boosted/turbo'd 10.5s to try and learn first. It helps, but running lots of timing/boost on the ESC led to overheating on both the ESC and the motor.

Since then, almost everyone has gone to a 4.5/5.0 for our medium carpet track. The ESC stays cooler cuz you don't need it doing as much work and the powerband is a bit more predictable to me.

I ran a 5.5 that I boosted in mod, and even just switching to a 5.0, I ran it in blinky for a while and got faster.
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