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Old 03-20-2013, 12:37 PM   #16
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Dragbrake really helps in mod. I run 5-8 in stock often zero but in mod i put in 17 on tekin rs and found the car way easier. I just cant get setup on the brakes so well yet. I guess practice will help.
Ran blinky with 8.15 ish fdr on a basketball size track and it was pretty smooth in the infield. Id say throttle dicipline and being mentally aware of the right speeds for what is important.
The tires are gonna stick as well as stock so sideways with more hp = no.

Im a noob. Learning myself but vrc helped massively. Im a better stock driver now cause i do all mod on vrc and have a better feel for
My radio.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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You don't want to gear higher with a mod motor to make the car easier to control. With the instant, insane amount of torque that mod brushless motors make, a higher pinion will not really mellow out your bottom end. It will simply make the car faster top speed wise and generate heat. This was different in the brushed days and with 1S.

If I was to make a list in order of importance for the key for controlling fast motors is
1.Boost (and start-end RPM) 2.Turbo 3.End bell Timing 4.Throttle Expo 5.Gear Ratio.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:00 PM   #18
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Keep in mind your results w Mod will depend a lot on the equipment you buy. If you can, find out about your mod motors that you are looking at and the stator that comes in it.

For example, most all SPEC stators come with around the minimum ID - 14.6-14.8mm. However, depending on the mfg and line of product you can get either that SPEC style stator with Mod winds or you can get the older style Mod stator that has a larger ID of usually in the 15.4-6mm range. This larger ID gives you a larger airgap which really smooths out the bottom end making the car more drivable. Keep in mind though that you loose airgap, so you also loose drag brake.

At the ROAR Nats last week, I was spinning the tires off the corner too easily so I backed off my motor timing about 5 degrees and went up 2 teeth. This smoothed out the bottom end and made the initial trigger rpms lower and easier to control. I wouldn't recommend just throwing more gear on it though, it will make the motor lug and run hot but when it does hit the power band it will be very aggressive. The key is to make something with a linear feel that revs free - if you stand on it, it goes but doesn't have a sort of "turbo lag" feel....

Hopefully this helps some.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:19 PM   #19
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Outstanding information so far guys, thank you.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:28 PM   #20
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Hello

Great thread.

Best regards:
Pedro Silva
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:50 PM   #21
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What are you guys doing with regard to the boost in Mod?

Much lower amounts of boost, or adjusting the rpm's, or a combination of the two.

How do the settings you use compare with when you're running boosted stock?

Thanks
Skiddins

P.S. will be attempting to run Mod at the UK nationals for the first time this year. Currently running 13.5 boosted at all events.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:25 PM   #22
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Great questions and great answers! Thanks syndrOme for stepping up and asking what alot of us guys like myself were wanting to know about mod!
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 PM   #23
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Subscribed!

Now a question...

If I put a 4.0 in a 1/12 and use the same 16 gauge wire going to my motor that I do with my 13.5, how much will that drop its potential? Would it only lack at 50 or 75%+ throttle or the full band?
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:24 PM   #24
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Our club jumped at the chance to run 12 mod this season with a basket ball smooth court and wall to wall rug (100x48). It's pretty awesome. I used to run mod back in the day when it was slow. This 3.5-4.0 stuff today is quick! I've wheelie'd the car a few times unintentionally more times then I car to admit. Currently I am working with a 4.0 by Reedy and TP, great motors. Reedy seems a little torquier while the TP seems a bit more top end. I am using the HW 1S which turned out too much power in the mod profile. I went to the stock profile so that I could control the start rpm. Now it's been so long since I've looked at it, I've forgotten where I set it. Gonna say 3000. That lets the motor roll up through some rpm's before esc boost starts happening. That little trick has really helped my "spec" trigger finger. I find that I need drag brake to slow the approach, I used 23% of drag. Also I set that esc's "initial" at "same as db" so that I do not get that little hick-up of nothing as I apply push brake. Or in other words, if you set your drag brake at 23%, initial at 0%, as you push, you will go from 23% brake all the way to 0 as it hits brake and then ramp up from there. It's funny that you constantly change roll out in spec as you keep up with your tires. I've had one 26 tooth attached all season. I am learning the smallest things make the big differences in mod racing. It does take time and it's generally frustrating, but the reward is there.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:09 PM   #25
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I think mod brushed motors suit small carpet tracks better than the brushless low turn overpowered motors.... A seven turn brushed motor should be easier to drive, and probably as fast... Brushed motors might not be dead yet !!!
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:29 PM   #26
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I can't see 13.5t blinky being faster than a seven turn brushed , eventhough it's very close to brushless mod in laptimes.....
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Our club jumped at the chance to run 12 mod this season with a basket ball smooth court and wall to wall rug (100x48). It's pretty awesome. I used to run mod back in the day when it was slow. This 3.5-4.0 stuff today is quick! I've wheelie'd the car a few times unintentionally more times then I car to admit. Currently I am working with a 4.0 by Reedy and TP, great motors. Reedy seems a little torquier while the TP seems a bit more top end. I am using the HW 1S which turned out too much power in the mod profile. I went to the stock profile so that I could control the start rpm. Now it's been so long since I've looked at it, I've forgotten where I set it. Gonna say 3000. That lets the motor roll up through some rpm's before esc boost starts happening. That little trick has really helped my "spec" trigger finger. I find that I need drag brake to slow the approach, I used 23% of drag. Also I set that esc's "initial" at "same as db" so that I do not get that little hick-up of nothing as I apply push brake. Or in other words, if you set your drag brake at 23%, initial at 0%, as you push, you will go from 23% brake all the way to 0 as it hits brake and then ramp up from there. It's funny that you constantly change roll out in spec as you keep up with your tires. I've had one 26 tooth attached all season. I am learning the smallest things make the big differences in mod racing. It does take time and it's generally frustrating, but the reward is there.
I assume this is for a 1s pan-car setup? Cause 3000rpm is very very low for a mod to start boost.
On my V3 (in TC) with a 4.5, fdr around 8.3, boost start is around 12K, ending around 27-28K, and then will tweak the amount of boost to smooth it out/gain punch.
Think that also answers Skiddins' q, adjust both boost amount and rpm range, as mod motors operate differently too stock motors in terms of their rpm around a track.

Personally, I've been running mod almost exclusively for over a year now, and for me, a de-tuned (less boost/turbo) 4.5t is better to drive than a higher wind, with more boost/turbo... throttle response is better, and just feel smoother. Also agree with the drag brake thing too, really helps to stop blowing lines (which i still do, just not every corner now )

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Last edited by TryHard; 03-21-2013 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:23 AM   #28
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Can we talk about the motor choice? Maybe a little bit of science instead of emotion!

There is a reason why the fast mod guys week in and week out are running X.0 wind motors. In 1/12th scale it is almost always a 4.0 and in TC a very normal selection is for a 5.0.

Are the full turn motors smoother and if so why is that?

I have been running a Reedy 5.5 and it feels pretty fast but not ridiculous with middle timing. Would a 5.0 be easier to drive than a 5.5 in TC?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Can we talk about the motor choice? Maybe a little bit of science instead of emotion!

There is a reason why the fast mod guys week in and week out are running X.0 wind motors. In 1/12th scale it is almost always a 4.0 and in TC a very normal selection is for a 5.0.

Are the full turn motors smoother and if so why is that?

I have been running a Reedy 5.5 and it feels pretty fast but not ridiculous with middle timing. Would a 5.0 be easier to drive than a 5.5 in TC?
You are more than welcome to try my LRP 4.0t if you want to try stepping it up a notch

This thread is awesome, combined with nats last week this has been a ridiculous info dump about mod racing.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:40 AM   #30
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Great thread ! ....finally found my answer on how to use boost and how to use turbo and what the difference is........someone stated that dont bother with anything over a 5 turn .......i bought a 6.5 turn thinking that its a pretty fast mod motor.......am i reallly wasting my time with it if i want to learn how to drive mod?
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