metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Interesting, I didn't even think of trying that. Ok, I'll give it a go for sure.

By the way, thanks for the tips last night, the handling did improve when I moved the side links back in to parallel, but overall the car still pushed pretty hard. Even though I got lucky and had the lead for a while, I couldn't get on the throttle at all throughout the race. Mark caught up with me like I was standing still

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Droop is the amount the springs are compressed from the kit 3 mm setting to where they rest under full load. Put your finger under the nose with the car fully loaded, and lift. If the wheels lift straight away, you have zero droop (and possibly too much spring compression). If you can lift the nose 1 mm before the front wheels come off the ground, you have 1 mm droop front droop. Try to get that lift to about .5 mm by adjusting the king pins and see if you like that. Also run the plate at 5 mm caster instead of 10. I have also removed the 2 front upper deck posts and screws. I run about 1 mm camber and adjust toward .5 mm as traction comes up.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

My car has been the same the last 2 weekends also. The balance shifted to the back especially on the sweeper. In the infield it wasn't as bad but still lazy to rotate.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Double

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I thought you were running a Tamiya? My eyes deceive me more often than not, though. So you're thinking the track conditions changed? Todd said that the vacuuming made the carpet high grip, but I didn't feel that with the F1.

Switching to the Scale Spec car right after (with back to back mains) was like night and day difference, I almost hit the pipe in the first warmup turn from all the steering I suddenly had. I'm going to try to find that in the SP-1 as well. Can't let you and Mark triple-lap me again

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

I'm running an Exotek F1R2, @ the Can Am challenge it had a trf front that broke... Imagine that. Saturday it was a full Exotek car.

I still have quite a few customers running the cars so I keep up with where dev is going so I can offer advice. Plus the new LMP car also, that thing was a cream puff out of the box. I think there's a lot more speed to come as I get the chassis dialed in on it.

You should come down to TZ2 for the UF1 race on Sunday the 19th. Guaranteed 45min of race time on one day alone. Should be a good race with the regular UF1 guys plus all the TZ crew.

113

Good afternoon everybody, I am the happy owner of this car, but now I race in Spain, How can I do the car to 185mm? I am sorry, I can't read 60 pages of this forum, I have only find to do it in the front, in the rear it seems I will need something more

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Buy the front aluminum caster plate or drill holes 5 mm inward on the plastic caster plate to mount the front lower arm further inward. Make sure your new holes line up properly with the lower arm mounting holes. You will have to shim the ball studs. Shave the outer upper arm where the large ball stud screws into down about 5 mm from each arm, removing the rounded section. The car will now be approximately 5 mm narrower.

113

Thank you John, and how can I do narrower the rear?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The rear is 186/187 mm with Pit tires. With Pardus, the car is 185 mm. You would need different offset rims to make it narrower.

Walito

iTrader: (9)

Hello people. Any body have a good setup for the F1 speed passion because is the First time that I run my Car in outdoor asphalt. The track is in Barceloneta, Puerto Rico and the track is bumpy and medium grip. Other help what I need is the tires.

THANKS I APRECCIATED

Sorry for my english

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

just broke a 5mm pivot ball....

ah.. common problem. oh well.

i'm going to try TOP Rebel 12 balls and links --- i know those really well. i'll make sure to use a 3x5mm fhs on the center pivot

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

dupe..

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

So, if I wanted to upgrade to a real thrust bearing, would this one work? http://avidrc.com/product/1/bearings...-bearings.html

I'm assuming that I'd want to continue using the two spring washers, but I'm not sure that would leave enough room for the nut. The stock bearing is 4mm, this thrust one is 4.5mm, and my nut is already barely on the threads with the Tamiya washer. Thoughts?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

So, if I wanted to upgrade to a real thrust bearing, would this one work? http://avidrc.com/product/1/bearings...-bearings.html

I'm assuming that I'd want to continue using the two spring washers, but I'm not sure that would leave enough room for the nut. The stock bearing is 4mm, this thrust one is 4.5mm, and my nut is already barely on the threads with the Tamiya washer. Thoughts?