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Speed Passion F1 car - The SP1

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Old 12-13-2013, 04:23 PM
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Yeah, I didn't opt for the aluminum steering rack and should have. That offset mounting hole from the stock piece makes a huge difference.
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
10* caster, 3mm spacer on the caster plate and 1mm spacer on the servo plates, using 10K AE diff fluid in the side damper.
This doesn't look out of line... What was the bite like compared to your normal track? I would actually expect the car to steer pretty good, though it might be lazy in the 180s with that light of oil in the tube and the side spring.
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
This doesn't look out of line... What was the bite like compared to your normal track? I would actually expect the car to steer pretty good, though it might be lazy in the 180s with that light of oil in the tube and the side spring.
I think a part of it was the issue I described a post or two ago, namely the steering rack running into the lower arm after the 185mm conversion. I increased my dual rate but it didn't do anything as the rack was hitting.

The test track was pretty new CRC carpet, very tight and technical, with lots of grip. Our usual track is slightly more worn out and much larger.

There still may be understeer, though, I'll find out tomorrow. I actually ran CRC 30K tube grease in the side damper before (with parallel links and stock springs), and it gave me a ton of rear grip, to the point of wearing out my sauce before the end of the race. Maybe I'll try the slightly stiffer springs if the car is failing to get into the corners quick enough. I'm still learning
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:30 AM
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http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi..._v1_1_0_24.zip

Another update....latest V24 interface. Including the long waiting V21 BLINKY software just got ROAR approval. However, we are still waiting ROAR to list it on their website so you might not see it listing the V21 on the site and IF your track is concern about the ROAR approval status, please keep using the V20 software from your previous download.

EX customer............they must use the V23.5 interface or this current V24 interface. Anything before the V23.5 interface will NOT WORK.

Key feature of the EX is....aiming for 12th scale racing, but can also run with 2 cells....cannot do 3 cells like V1.1 PRO does. And yes, it is BLACK, it is faster (depends on your personal like....LOL) Also...the EX, come standard with the used to be optional SUPER CAP. Bonus.....however, it does not come with the LCD programmer card as we thought most ppl are REVENTON current customer and they might more then 1 LCD card laying around. But purchasing the EX on our direct sale site, for extra $10, we will throw in the LCD as a special....that LCD card retail is $28 USD.

Good luck racing everyone.....and please visit our new online store at SPEED POWER RC (see below link)

http://shop.speedpowerrc.com/reventon-pro-1-1-ex/



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Old 12-18-2013, 01:54 PM
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I think you meant to post that in the regular Speed Passion thread
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:08 PM
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Building my Sp1. Trying to figure out all the option parts, can someone help me with the list below what is 'best' options for rubber 190mm asphalt 21.5, shorty lipo:

Link system set (Carbon Reinforced)
Steering upright set 30% Fiber Glass
Wheel adaptor V2
Battery holder plate (carbon)
Motor mount (R) for 540 motor (Aluminium Gunmetal)
Pivot ball (POM)
Main shaft (carbon)
Caster block (Aluminium)
Servo mount set (Aluminum)
Steering bridge (Aluminium)
Steering & servo parts set (Carbon Reinforced)

is that everything?

Last edited by JayL; 12-20-2013 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Building my Sp1. Trying to figure out all the option parts, can someone help me with the list below what is 'best' options for rubber 190mm asphalt 21.5, shorty lipo:

Link system set (Carbon Reinforced)
Steering upright set 30% Fiber Glass
Wheel adaptor V2
Battery holder plate (carbon)
Motor mount (R) for 540 motor (Aluminium Gunmetal)
Pivot ball (POM)
Main shaft (carbon)
Caster block (Aluminium)
Servo mount set (Aluminum)
Steering bridge (Aluminium)
Steering & servo parts set (Carbon Reinforced)

is that everything?

Skip the 540 mount unless running silver can and the carbon rear axle. Servo mount is optional, but not needed. You will want all the other parts.
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Old 12-20-2013, 03:57 PM
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Thank you John!

what does Wheel adaptor V2 do better, just a more solid hex?
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Old 12-20-2013, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Thank you John!

what does Wheel adaptor V2 do better, just a more solid hex?
Balance. It puts about the same amount of weight on each side of the pod, effectively balancing it left to right once the motor is in place. Then you have the same amount of rotating mass turning left and right keeping the rear end planted through every corner.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Skip the 540 mount unless running silver can and the carbon rear axle. Servo mount is optional, but not needed. You will want all the other parts.
I would say get the aluminum servo mounts if you want 190mm with rubber tires. You then do the 185mm setup and come in just under 190mm. The aluminum mounts have the proper cutouts already in them and give the top arms a more solid mount point.
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:56 AM
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Well, I finally had a chance to run the SP-1 on our regular track. Unfortunately it's not behaving as well as before. Namely, I seem to have a lot of on-power understeer. The changes I made were

* 185mm setup with the option parts
* Carbon-reinforced plastic upper and lower arms

Otherwise the setup hasn't changed. I tried to run the links inward (so, out on the pod, in on the chassis) with harder side springs, but that didn't seem to help. My theory is that the stiffer front arms actually reduced my steering, as the softer plastic would give a lot more. I'm only saucing the front tires 50%, so I could sauce 75% or more. But that could easily result in nasty traction rolls.

So, what should I try first? Softer front springs? Stiffer side springs or thicker damper oil? Does diff tightness play a role here? I hesitate to make too many changes at once, but I definitely need to do something to get more on-power steering.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:41 AM
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Reduce front droop a little if you can. Try a thicker ackerman shim.
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:16 AM
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Metalnut, what caster and camber settings? If you have too much camber gain, you could be losing your contact patch on the front tires in higher speed corners. Check the scrub pattern on your tires. If they look more scrubbed on the inside edge, try reducing caster. If its off the inner edge, but not centered, take out a little camber. I try to get my wear pattern to the insde of center to the mold seam as close as possible. Once you have good contact, then change saucing.
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Reduce front droop a little if you can. Try a thicker ackerman shim.
Pardon my stupid question.. but this car has front droop? I honestly didn't think that was something that could be tuned. I measure the length the spring sticks out below the knuckle, per the instructions, and I think it's somewhere around 3mm. As for the ackerman, I'm also running the kit setup, but due to all the slop the aluminum rack has introduced, I'm thinking of switching to a direct steering setup (ball links directly on servo saver).

Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Metalnut, what caster and camber settings? If you have too much camber gain, you could be losing your contact patch on the front tires in higher speed corners. Check the scrub pattern on your tires. If they look more scrubbed on the inside edge, try reducing caster. If its off the inner edge, but not centered, take out a little camber. I try to get my wear pattern to the insde of center to the mold seam as close as possible. Once you have good contact, then change saucing.
The tires are definitely scrubbed less on the outer edge. I'm running the 10* aluminum caster setup and about 1* of camber. So you're saying try the 5* side to reduce camber gain? Then maybe reduce camber to 0*? The front Pit tires seem to have some camber already built into the profile.
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:11 PM
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Steering slop....make sure you leave out the 2 shims that were stock under the rack. There isn't a recess in the new metal part. Well not as big...I noticed it on my LMP build. Without the shims in there all was tight and happy
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