theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Does the UF1 series keep track of constructer wins .....meaning to they have a stats page to show what companies cars are winning the most ....I.E tamiya, speed passion , vbc, kyosho, yokomo....etc

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The chassis with the most wins in the last 2 years is the Exotek F1R.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

Hi guys, what's the biggest spur and pinion I can use without changing stuff other than spur and pinion?
local F104 guys use something like 36t/92t pinion/spur. While biggest pinion I can use is 23t.

InspGadgt

Drop to a smaller spur and you can fit much bigger pinions. On my F1R I ran a 78t or 80t 64p spur. I believe I put a 78t on my SP-1.

InspGadgt

My Qteq hub came in yesterday so I've been messing around with getting the right spacers for the axle. I found with the fat old F103 rear bearing and the thin F104 rear bearing put me within .5mm of the stock left side hub + spacer + 2mm spacers. I had some old blown out bearings from my F103 and F104 days so I just used the inner races as spacers.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I think I'm going to try to get a hold of some of this tubing and use my small diameter tubing cutter. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s9806.htm

InspGadgt

That'll work so long as your tube cutter cuts square...I don't trust myself cutting that by hand. Although I did see an arrow shaft cutting jig I was thinking on getting for archery which would do that quite nicely.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The tubing cutter is from my garage tools for making new brake/fuel lines. It cuts very square. It would work for archery shafts too. You just have to use a deburring tool to clear the end. You just have to be careful and cut slowly so you don't pinch the tubing. I've already used mine to cut a CRC torpedo tube to make a custom length short damper.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I think I should share some of the work that I did about 3 months ago on this car that we are going to make option parts on...and some idea about what I think it will make the SP1 handle better on outdoor....since we are not running indoor anymore until winter, so outdoor setup is what I am chasing after...

I will provide some data about using Pit Shumizu, TCS rubber, Tamiya stock rubber and Pardus rubber tires specification and setup on the SP1 soon. The only tires that I cannot provide info are the new RIDE, they are all coming with +3mm offset rim and that made the width way wider then 190mm that would not be legal in USA racing.

Ericjooopuntnl

With the Ride-tires the front width is indeed 195mm, 10mm more than a legal F104, the rear is 190,5.....only 0,5mm wider than a F104 with Ride-tires.

I'm currently working on a F104 front-conversion on the SP1 with the use of the upperarms and wheelhubs of the SP1. Unfortuanally the great steeringrack has to go to make the car ETS-legal.....

I will post a picture when it's done.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Solara is one crazy dude. That is a lot of work!

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

.

InspGadgt

Ummm yeah...no...lol That would crack my carbon arrow shafts

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Very true. I still have oversized thin wall Eastons. no overdraw. I'm about 10 minutes from Little Jon's Archery World.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I measured my front and rear as assembled just for giggles.

185mm rear with no washers or spacers. Front was 186mm with 2* negative camber measured at the top of tire.

The Front was 196 with 2* negative camber measured at the very bottom of the tire.

The car is approximately 190mm up front with 0* camber.

I'd rather put a 2mm spacer on the diff side axle, a customer length spacer on the other and a clamp hub to get to the right width. Messing with shims inside the wheel just doesn't suit me. Else I will narrow the front to 185 mm as I don't know if the camber adjustment will make the car illegal width. I'm not going to run it @ 0* camber.