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Old 11-29-2008, 10:34 PM   #826
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Burito

I am running an 07 sphere with a novak 3.5 with a 4 cell pack running oval. My problem is I cant make run time by about 10 seconds. My motor is 115 degF off track and the esc is 175degF. The other guys are running the same FDR and have GTB's with fans and are running over 90 laps in practice versus my 75 laps. Will adding a fan to my esc fix the run time issue or what do I need to do. The only difference in our cars is the esc fan. I have brand new matched 4600's, car is free etc.
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:49 PM   #827
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Burito

I am running an 07 sphere with a novak 3.5 with a 4 cell pack running oval. My problem is I cant make run time by about 10 seconds. My motor is 115 degF off track and the esc is 175degF. The other guys are running the same FDR and have GTB's with fans and are running over 90 laps in practice versus my 75 laps. Will adding a fan to my esc fix the run time issue or what do I need to do. The only difference in our cars is the esc fan. I have brand new matched 4600's, car is free etc.
What wired are you running on your ESC I put 14 gauge om my LRP TC spec and lost run time. I went back to 13 gauge and made time. I know it sounds weird and everyone told me that the wires wasn't my problem but when I went back it seem to fix its self.

My 2 cents.
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:51 PM   #828
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12ga is what I have installed
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:55 PM   #829
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Have you tried a different Novak 3.5? You running the stock rotor or the 13mm?
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:58 PM   #830
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stock sintered rotor. Yes I have tried a different 3.5 and had the exact same issue. My main question is, is the extra heat being generated by the esc causing my loss of runtime, and will simply adding an esc fan cure the issue?
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:05 PM   #831
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I think only if your generating lots of heat(145 and up) It will make difference. Shouldn't coast you that much time though. I think it's the resistance in your ESC. Has it been like this sense new? or just started doing it?

Running the same body as everyone else. The down force be an issue.

Just my 2cents.
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:18 PM   #832
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same body, same chassis, same gearing, same batteries, tires, recievers, motors, only difference is he is running a GTB with a fan and coming off at under 120degF and im coming off at 175 to 180. Started getting hot with the 3.5 motor, last year we had to run and 8.5 and it never got much above room temp, now it gets hotter everytime I run it
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:27 PM   #833
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Yeah that sound like temp is the killer. Hopes it not the ESC giving up.

This is what I would try first.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LRP-82700-Brushl...1%7C240%3A1318
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:05 AM   #834
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Yeah I ordered one after the races tonight, I'll try that. I found someone that is wanting to trade a GTB for an O7 sphere, and I have a backup so I'll do that and see which one works best.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:45 AM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burito View Post
Check your sensor wire and also make sure all other connections (to receiver and battery) are fine.
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I've found the answer to the blinking, but have no idea what to make of it..

I tried the same motors and sensor wires with an original Sphere digital Brushless/Brushed with no issues whatsoever.

I tried playing with the sensor wires, the power lines, everything, and the more I tried running the motor and looking at the lights, the more the blue light would flicker like crazy at neutral. I've turned off the LiPo cutoff mode at this point, so that blue blinking shouldn't be happening either way.

I sat the radio beside the car, and started disconnecting the sensor and servo leads, and still it flickered like nuts, and at this point only the battery and motor were hooked up.

Dejected, I moved the radio (M8 w/Spektrum Pro) to the table beside me, proceeded to hook the wires back up when I noticed the blinking reduced considerably.

I took the radio and held it close to the car again, and it was flickering like mad again! The flickering actually stopped altogether when the radio was around 4-5 feet away from the car. So the car will still run from afar, but the only problem is that I have to stand away from the car to test it! It's winter with crappy weather around here, and I haven't gone to the track for a while, so it wasn't an option for me to run it outside to notice the distance issue.

I didn't think a 2.4GHz signal could affect a speed control like this.. is this normal?
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:26 AM   #836
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Originally Posted by Jam-ehz View Post
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I've found the answer to the blinking, but have no idea what to make of it..

I tried the same motors and sensor wires with an original Sphere digital Brushless/Brushed with no issues whatsoever.

I tried playing with the sensor wires, the power lines, everything, and the more I tried running the motor and looking at the lights, the more the blue light would flicker like crazy at neutral. I've turned off the LiPo cutoff mode at this point, so that blue blinking shouldn't be happening either way.

I sat the radio beside the car, and started disconnecting the sensor and servo leads, and still it flickered like nuts, and at this point only the battery and motor were hooked up.

Dejected, I moved the radio (M8 w/Spektrum Pro) to the table beside me, proceeded to hook the wires back up when I noticed the blinking reduced considerably.

I took the radio and held it close to the car again, and it was flickering like mad again! The flickering actually stopped altogether when the radio was around 4-5 feet away from the car. So the car will still run from afar, but the only problem is that I have to stand away from the car to test it! It's winter with crappy weather around here, and I haven't gone to the track for a while, so it wasn't an option for me to run it outside to notice the distance issue.

I didn't think a 2.4GHz signal could affect a speed control like this.. is this normal?
I am using LRP TC Spec with Novak 4.5t motor & spektrum DSM SR3001. It's just 1 cm to the ESC. Since I am using NiMH I had the LiPo cutoff disabled. I don't have such issues.

However I suggest if you have FM receiver. Try swap it to see how. These usually come along with your transmitter. Unless if you buy the Tx with 2.4G Spekrum series.
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:40 PM   #837
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Yeah, I got rid of all of my FM stuff..

I have the SR3001 as well a SR3500, but the issue occurs even when it's not even hooked to a receiver!
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:53 AM   #838
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Default LRP ESC PROBLEM

Good day.

I am having problems with my LRP TC SPEC ESC running on brushless motor. when hitting the throttle the ESC seems to be malfunctioning ang the motor beeps and heat up. but when running on brush mode, I have no problems at all. is it possible that the brushless mode only of My esc is defective? and the brush mode is ok. please help

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Old 01-03-2009, 05:05 AM   #839
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Good day.

I am having problems with my LRP TC SPEC ESC running on brushless motor. when hitting the throttle the ESC seems to be malfunctioning ang the motor beeps and heat up. but when running on brush mode, I have no problems at all. is it possible that the brushless mode only of My esc is defective? and the brush mode is ok. please help

Regards,
sounds like your sensor wire is not connected or broken. try looking into this and connect the sensor wire before switching on the system.
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:31 AM   #840
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