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Old 08-02-2006, 04:30 AM   #616
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Drew

"There aren't any plastic bolts on the GTB, the screws are just tapped into the heat sink."

I used to design car engine when I was at Yamaha in Iwata. I never use the term "screw" instead i use bolt. Moreover, the term "tapped" is when you created screw thread on the surface of a hole. In case of GTB heat sink, the bolt is anchored in between the two heat exchanger ribs.
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:49 AM   #617
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In my directions for the 4 star it says to gear sedans in the mid 10's, just a little fyi.
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:07 AM   #618
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Well, in one of LRP:s employees directions he says you can gear it whatever you want as long as is doesn't become hotter than 100 degrees. Do you have problems reading? just a little fyi.

"Anyway, there's no limitations to the gearing whatsoever. Try to explain...
If it feels better with one ratio then the other, or if you get better laptimes with one ratio then the other, then there's no reason not to do it!" Reto Hoenig, LRP:s man at all the big races.
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Old 08-02-2006, 02:23 PM   #619
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It appears some of you have the theory that Neos aren't/shouldn't be built to be ran wide open. How come basically every other motor in the world (hackers, velocitis, all brushed, even crappy mambas) are made to be able to handle being ran wide open. LRP is a terrible company, NEO motors were made to be used with their products, and thus the Neo motors fail after just a few runs just like the LRP escs. Get used to it, or go buy something orange. I made the mistake of buying something blue and so far it's cost me an extra 180 dollars than a Novak system would have and I haven't had an esc for 3 weeks in a row now because Associated is only a 2 hour drive away but can't manage to get my esc back to me.
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:52 PM   #620
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No need to be abrasive Morris, I was just stating what my directions said. Why would they state mid 10's in my instructions and a representative tell you in the 8's? I guess I would be mad to if I didn't learn after burning up the first one.
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:24 PM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdougie
No need to be abrasive Morris, I was just stating what my directions said. Why would they state mid 10's in my instructions and a representative tell you in the 8's? I guess I would be mad to if I didn't learn after burning up the first one.
'

Morris runs on a giant track. His gear ratio is correct. The rotors fragment due to rpm and harmonics. This can happens no matter how you gear the motor if it spends some time topped out at max RPM. You can pop a rotor if you run a motor at full throttle with no load on your work bench at home.

That said...lets be fair to LRP. Novak and GM motors can pop rotors. Brushed motor can shift winds and go unbalanced or throw winds. There is no simple solution for our motor problems due to the power we are getting from the latest batteries.

The sintered magnets proposed by some BL companies for 2007 should reduce or eliminate this problem.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:27 AM   #622
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I wonder which FDR they are running at the EC-track since it's also a high speed track..even faster than Väst-8

EC-track

Väst-8 track

Last edited by Oscar Callgard; 08-03-2006 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:48 AM   #623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdougie
No need to be abrasive Morris, I was just stating what my directions said. Why would they state mid 10's in my instructions and a representative tell you in the 8's? I guess I would be mad to if I didn't learn after burning up the first one.
The representative didn't tell me in the 8:s, that is what we have found out works best. The representative only said any gearing is okey.
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Old 08-04-2006, 03:56 AM   #624
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Can you remove the yellow wire when using the Sphere Comp. with BRUSHED motors??

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Old 08-04-2006, 06:15 AM   #625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Janssen
Can you remove the yellow wire when using the Sphere Comp. with BRUSHED motors??

Rob Janssen
Yes you can pull the yellow wire out of the speedo.Do it carefully with a xacto knife so if you have problems with the speedo you can put it back in to send it for warrenty work.Hope this helps.
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:11 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17driver
Yes you can pull the yellow wire out of the speedo.Do it carefully with a xacto knife so if you have problems with the speedo you can put it back in to send it for warrenty work.Hope this helps.
Thanks,
can anyone confirm this??
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:53 PM   #627
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Just an FYI. I have been racing my Sphere Comp for about 6 weeks using an Orion 4800 and a Novak 4300. I have been running a pt, the AE dual fan set up, an LRP Large worlds cap plugged into the receiver, and a futaba 9550 on my RDX through an original sprektrum receiver and Helios. So far I've had no problems what so ever. Weve had teh same track for ever and I found a gearing that was fast enough for 19t and didn't get the esc or the motor over 140* F. Thats in Texas in the summer where when I temp the bench it says 95*. During the 2nd qualifier racing today I got in a medium sized wreck and the car wouldn't move. The servo worked but no throttle. I pulled it off the track and temped the motor and esc. Both around 135*. I turned the radio and car off and then back on and regained throttle control. So I figured it was a Spektrum thing, or maybe my lipo was too low causing the low voltage cut-off on the esc. So I rebound my spektrum and charged up my li-po for the 3rd qualifier. I set the car down went down the straight and stopped after the timing loop. I tried to give it throttle again and it wouldn't move again. So as I was walking over towards it (finger off the throttle now)I see smoke coming from under the body. I rushed over to the car, saw the smoke coming from the esc, and turned the esc off.

Looks like I will be sending my sphere comp in for some warranty work.

Anyone else have this happen or know what exactly happened? Theres no visible damage to the wires, case, cap on the esc, or any related electronics. The hit wasn't terribly hard and certainly not one that I would have expected to do damage to the esc. Nothing on the car broke and I have really babied the esc and motor keeping it relatively cool whenever I run to avoid something like this.

Bummer.
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:52 PM   #628
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Check your lipo pack. The hit may have caused damage to your lipo pack.Try a nimh pack and see if it does anything.

My second regular sphere just gave out to day as well. This time I had just put the brushless motor back in after some stock motor racing. The esc spun the wheels for a few seconds then just stop working. I had sterring but no throttle control of any kind. the red light came on then when I pulled the trigger the gren light came on and stayed on. After that point there was no motor action. I even tried a reedy ti in brushed mode and nothing either. That sucked.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:49 PM   #629
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The Lipo still charges normal. It didn't swell and theres no apparent damage to the lipo. This is the one in the hard plastic case. Plus it is arranged in the chassis in a way that the chassis would have to break to cause damage to the battery. Did I mention white smoke coming from the esc? I am pretty sure the lipo is not the problem.
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Old 08-13-2006, 12:06 AM   #630
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Check the power cap on the esc if you had it on it. to see if it puffed up. If it did then it was the cause. It might of gotten to hot with to much current(amps) flowing through it.
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