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Old 07-10-2006, 04:29 PM   #586
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Got into a 15mph crash Friday and the Sphere broke. It, ofcourse, never even came close to getting toched during the crash. Now the 6.5 (1 day old) cogs whenever taking off, and I can't enter either of the setup modes on the esc.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:44 PM   #587
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Anyone have data/experience with precooling a brushless with a motor freezer/cooler? I'd be curious to see if any of the thermaling/overheating issues could be eliminated or decreased starting with a really cool motor.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:04 PM   #588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Anyone have data/experience with precooling a brushless with a motor freezer/cooler? I'd be curious to see if any of the thermaling/overheating issues could be eliminated or decreased starting with a really cool motor.
A guy at my track turned a can of canned air upside down to pre-cool his motor and it worked successfully at keeping him from thermalling like he had.
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Old 07-23-2006, 09:56 PM   #589
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Default 3 star motor problems

I know this has been asked before, but never saw an answer for it. I have the original Sphere and Neo 3 star motor. The shaft which the armature is set on and pinionhas came out about roughly 5mm from the can. I have had this problem before and fixed it, but it was only a quick fix. Is there a way I can get a armature for this motor? I would hate to go and buy another motor and this happens again. I have not hit anything hard with my 12 th scale which is where this motor is in. I have had this motor for about 1 year come October. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:03 PM   #590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
A guy at my track turned a can of canned air upside down to pre-cool his motor and it worked successfully at keeping him from thermalling like he had.
If you use the proper gear ratio you wont have any thermal issues, I havent had any with the LRP Competition with the 3-star motor,Novak 5.5 or the Novak 4.5.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:38 PM   #591
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Carlos- Just send the motor in to Associated. They will replace the motor with one that won't do that again. They had some sort of epoxy issue on the earlier models. They have worked this out, so you shouldn't have any trouble with buying a new one unless you buy it from someplace that has had one sitting around a while. All of the bad ones should have been rotated out by now. I've had a few issues with a couple Sphere comps, but Associated has been quick to replace them ( about a week ).
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:46 PM   #592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
If you use the proper gear ratio you wont have any thermal issues, I havent had any with the LRP Competition with the 3-star motor,Novak 5.5 or the Novak 4.5.

I am not thermaling, just wondering if theres any advantage to running a 90* motor as opposed to a 140* motor.
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:15 AM   #593
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Default 5 4-stars broke in one weekend.

During this weekend we were training at the Väst-8 track in gothenburg, sweden, to prepare for the Swedish Championship which takes place in two weeks. We managed to destroy no less than 5 (FIVE!) LRP 4-star motors, all of them because of the magnet separating inside the can. What is wrong with your motors? I know that the teamdrivers blow up their motors in the same way, but thats what they are supposed to do. LRP should not have released their motor to the public when they know that it does this. I dont know how to prevent this from happen, but maybe a better quality magnet? Our motors is no hotter than 85-90 degrees measured with a Raytek tempgun. The track, Väst-8.

Reto I'd like your answer to this. Good luck on the high speed European Championship track, hope you have found a good solution till then. Otherwise i guess your teamdrivers will have to drive brushed motors like at the worlds.

Albin Norrman, and the rest of the people who drive LRP at Väst-8.
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:03 AM   #594
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I have a sphere comp and purchased the cooling kit. The kit comes with a capacitor. Do I remove the existing hard wired capacitor? Do I just cut it off?

Also do most people just cut off the unnecessary blue wire?
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:05 AM   #595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
I have a sphere comp and purchased the cooling kit. The kit comes with a capacitor. Do I remove the existing hard wired capacitor? Do I just cut it off?

Also do most people just cut off the unnecessary blue wire?
I kept the original capacitor, but I did cut that un-used blue wire
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:59 AM   #596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morrissey
During this weekend we were training at the Väst-8 track in gothenburg, sweden, to prepare for the Swedish Championship which takes place in two weeks. We managed to destroy no less than 5 (FIVE!) LRP 4-star motors, all of them because of the magnet separating inside the can. What is wrong with your motors? I know that the teamdrivers blow up their motors in the same way, but thats what they are supposed to do. LRP should not have released their motor to the public when they know that it does this. I dont know how to prevent this from happen, but maybe a better quality magnet? Our motors is no hotter than 85-90 degrees measured with a Raytek tempgun. The track, Väst-8.

Reto I'd like your answer to this. Good luck on the high speed European Championship track, hope you have found a good solution till then. Otherwise i guess your teamdrivers will have to drive brushed motors like at the worlds.

Albin Norrman, and the rest of the people who drive LRP at Väst-8.
One 5-star rotor exploded at the Årsunda track also. Somethings definitely wrong.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:59 AM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
One 5-star rotor exploded at the Årsunda track also. Somethings definitely wrong.
Here's a pic of mine and another 4-star motor

Notice that parts of the rotor has exploded and turned into dust

//Oscar Callgard Väst-8
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:48 AM   #598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar Callgard
Here's a pic of mine and another 4-star motor

Notice that parts of the rotor has exploded and turned into dust

//Oscar Callgard Väst-8
where is that picture?
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:44 AM   #599
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I'll tell him to repost it today.
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:01 AM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azmio
kenneth

I think the heat sink is the same heat sink that comes with the set. you can either drill and tap the heat sink or you can use plastic bolt (like Novak GTB) that will be anchored in between the ribs. another option is for you to create the bolt boss using shoe goo.
There aren't any plastic bolts on the GTB, the screws are just tapped into the heat sink.

<Edit>
Sorry there is, I didn't know they were made of plastic.
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Last edited by Drewdc90; 08-01-2006 at 05:39 AM.
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