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Old 05-02-2005, 11:08 AM   #16
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The 3600 are Sanyos and the 3700 are Gps. They aren't the same, and testing shows that the GPs are better with less IR. My experience anyway.
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:15 PM   #17
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FYI - 3700's will take about 15% longer than 3300's to charge. . . remember this before your next race
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:34 AM   #18
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Default Re: 3600

Quote:
Originally posted by crACkeD ChaSsiS
mild seven- were did u get your packs?
I race with Mild Seven and he bought the packs from Harris R/C www.harrisrc.com

Check em out... Enjoy!
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:46 AM   #19
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I saw a few people in this thread talk about dead shorting. What exactly is that?

Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:18 AM   #20
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Default Sanyo 3600's vs GP 3700

Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
The 3600 are Sanyos and the 3700 are Gps. They aren't the same, and testing shows that the GPs are better with less IR. My experience anyway.
....i'v also heard , depending on how you may charge Sanyo's 3600 cells, there may be a tendency for the cells to vent; ie. shortened life span ....stick with the GP's
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:24 AM   #21
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Deadshorting is when you discharge all your cells down to absolute zero, instead of a predetermined low amount (usually .5-.9 amps) on a tray. Once you have them down to zero, you connect the ends of the pack with a wire (most common method) so that positive is soldered to negative and then it becomes deadshorted. Don't touch them until they are exactly at zero or you could cause a small explosion, kill the cells, etc. Once the cells are deadshorted and the wire attached, you can remove them from the tray. Do not attach the wire after they are removed, since the will naturally start to pick up some voltage out of the tray. When you are ready to charge, just unsolder the wire and charge it. People debate the time you can keep it deadshorted, but I keep them at zero for up to a week. Deadshorted packs will give you more punch since you are charging them from absolute zero and this gives you more run time on that charge which equals a longer power punch on the initial first quarter discharge during a race. Be careful though, in the long run, it will reduce the life of the batteries and adds more wear and tear, but if you want to have a subtle affect of more power, deadshort. Also, because the pack is starting at zero, sometimes chargers will get confused and will false peak in the first few minutes of charging. Just watch it and start it again or if you have a charger that locks charging in for the first few minutes, do that. Good luck.
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:57 AM   #22
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Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:11 AM   #23
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Carl - just curious, have you lost many cells from dead shorting?
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Old 05-05-2005, 03:01 PM   #24
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Since I've been racing Offroad more lately, I prefer to take care of my cells and don't deadshort. I only deadshort when it's a big race or I really want to do well in Onroad. In Offroad those small details pretty much go unnoticed, especially since my driving isn't good enough to tell the difference. When done right, I've never lost a cell, but I don't make it a very common practise.

On another note, I recently got some more info about the GP3700s. More tests are showing higher voltage and less IR. A lot of the top drivers are switching for the IFMAR events and willl switch when ROAR clears them. Only problem is the chasis on a lot of the touring cars where space can be a problem. A lot of the manufacturers that have problem with fit are addressing this issue to accomodate. Yokomo BD, Corally RDX are making different chasis or different battery holders. So far Losi JRXS is still a problem, with no solution in site (at least none that I've seen).
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