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Old 04-28-2005, 03:16 AM   #16
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does this V2 type need alot comm cutting compare to the normal endbell>?

by the way thanks for the input

appreciate it guys
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Old 04-28-2005, 03:44 AM   #17
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That's one of the big benefits of running a V2 motor, how easy it is on the comm. Compared to normal endbells, V2 motors require less maintenence which is good for everyone.
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:05 AM   #18
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Thumbs up ORAIN MOTORS

I HAVE HAD 3 MOTORS FROM ORIAN AND ALL THREE HAVE GIVEN ME PROBLEMS. THE FIRST THING TAT YOU NEED TO DO WHEN YOU GET IT IS REPLACE THE BRUSH SPRINGS. THE ORIGNIAL ONES JUST ARE CRAP.
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:42 AM   #19
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BIG O, what springs did you get for the Orion?
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:44 AM   #20
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Default Re: ORAIN MOTORS

Quote:
Originally posted by BIG O
I HAVE HAD 3 MOTORS FROM ORIAN AND ALL THREE HAVE GIVEN ME PROBLEMS. THE FIRST THING TAT YOU NEED TO DO WHEN YOU GET IT IS REPLACE THE BRUSH SPRINGS. THE ORIGNIAL ONES JUST ARE CRAP.
Maybe a little less caps lock.

But anyway..... I've always got DC Motorsports V2 Motors.... no problems there AT ALL!!!! Check em out.... the RIP!!

www.dcmotorsports.net
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Old 04-28-2005, 07:04 AM   #21
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Quote:
I HAVE HAD 3 MOTORS FROM ORIAN AND ALL THREE HAVE GIVEN ME PROBLEMS. THE FIRST THING TAT YOU NEED TO DO WHEN YOU GET IT IS REPLACE THE BRUSH SPRINGS. THE ORIGNIAL ONES JUST ARE CRAP.
Thats a bit of a sweeping statement as it depends on the wind and application and how you build them.

I think what you may be reffering to is the tendency for the spring to come out of the holder from std. This is easilly cured by removing the spring and gently opening up the last coil slightly so it seats in the holder much better. Not great I know but not the biggest job either.

In terms of springs, well the normal modifieds and tourings come with medium springs (41391) while the steenari and hara versions come with medium hard (41392) The newer reinhard winds - which I would highly reccomend below 10 turns come with the much harder MR035 inox springs (41386) a little too hard IMO unless running circa 7 turn on very tight circuits.

As for setup I would suggest the following for 6 cell modified touring cars on tarmac. This is based on the orion or peak touring range wich uses a 4mm rpm blank down to 10 turns and a 5mm torque blank below 10 turns. Also use the same setup for either the Orion Reinhard range or the Peak Spashett range.

12 turn open / fast circuit use medium hard (41392) on the -ve and hard (41393) on the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 7mm timing, FDR of around 6.1/1

12 turn tighter / twisty circuit use medium hard (41392) on the -ve and hard (41393) on the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 8mm timing, FDR of around 6.6/1

10 turn open / fast circuit use medium hard (41392) on the -ve and hard (41393) on the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 6mm timing, FDR of around 7.2/1

10 turn tighter / twisty circuit use the MR032 inox medium springs (41382) on both the -ve and the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 7mm timing, FDR of around 7.7/1

8 turn open / fast circuit use the MR032 inox medium springs (41382) on both the -ve and the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 4mm timing, FDR of around 7.9/1 (if you need more top speed you can use the medium hard -ve and hard +ve setup with a FDR of around 7.7/1)

8 turn tight / twisty circuit use the MR032 inox medium hard springs (41383) on both the -ve and the +ve. Sprint edge brushes and 5mm timing, FDR of around 8.6/1. For really tiny circuits you may need to push up to nearer 9.0/1 but we have never had a need to run that low as our circuits here in the UK are usually pretty open.

Another good practice is to ignore the label and score a mark on the opposite side of the can exactly through center of the pressed ident on the can - thats 0 timing. Then take off the endbell and put a straight edge across the two enbell screw holes and file a small notch in the endbell - opposite side to the standard notch in the endbell. This gives you an accurate position to measure the timing from as the labels are not always positioned accurately. Then measure the timing using a soft tape measure in millimeters between these two marks . Far more accurate and repeatable on all motors then.........just make sure you file the notches accurately!

Hope thats of some use to you all

Steve
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:31 AM   #22
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Try starting at about 24mm rollout. Use one of the many on-line rollout calculators if you can't work that out for you car. I always use filed brushes with timing on 4th mark. I have played with these on a dyno and Everything improves with more timing.
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:04 AM   #23
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Dragonfire,

24mm/rpm for that wind is about spot on I'd say on a small circuit - works out to around 8.6/1 with normall rubber tyres.

I'd have to slightly disagree with the timing though. Whilst I do prefer running a fair bit of timing and it will make more PEAK power on the dyno with more timing you have to factor a couple of things in.

The first is heat through a race duration and 24 degrees on a wind like and 8x1 is a little excsessive and it shouldnt need it if its geared correctly. Oscar has always suggested we run around 6 - 10 degrees on 7 turns and around 8 - 12 degrees on 8 turns. I do setup our motors with slightly more than that but not as high as 24 degrees (except 12 turns)

The second is where you want the power. High timing and low gearing is suited to very small circuits. Lower timing and taller gearing is suited to longer circuits with sweeping corners

Tuning a motor to a higher timing will increase punch, decrease duration and it will be need to be rebuilt more often - hence you need to run shorter gearing to take advantage of it. It will also decrease the top end potential of the motor because it is setup for high amp draw. When you are at the end of a straight it's usually the point when you are pulling the least current and so this is why it decreases your efficiency.

All that said, electric motor tuning is a trade off and what you gain in one area you will loose in another - its all about maximising the effect of the gain for a given circuit.
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:11 PM   #24
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HI Steve (spud J)

Great tips on mod motor tuning very helpfull indeed. In your last post I saw u refer to timing as 8-12 degrees for timing, what is that timing in mm please, since i always mix up the deg and mm issue.

In your other posting u mention the following"(if you need more top speed you can use the medium hard -ve and hard +ve setup with a FDR of around 7.7/1)" what are the part number of the springs you mentioned here.

Bye for now and thanks for your tips once again.

Gustav
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
i charge all my matched packs at 5amps...

i found that my 8x1 orion motor liked it better when the timing was reduced, rather than the 18 deg that came with the motor... 8.5 to 8.7 final drive seems right.
How to read the timing on the shell..? From the motor, there are some bars are white, some are RED on each positive and negative side...........and someone already mentioned each bar is considered 6 degrees. Is that really 6 per bar..? or 4 per bar..?



Thanks for advance.

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 04-28-2005 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 04-28-2005, 02:06 PM   #26
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I never trust marks on the motor. Especially marks on the sticker. Just get a motor timing jig like the Matt Francis one. It's much more accurate.
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Old 04-28-2005, 02:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon Kerr
I never trust marks on the motor. Especially marks on the sticker. Just get a motor timing jig like the Matt Francis one. It's much more accurate.
Hmmmm, never realized that.........one more thing to learn.
I was reading what Spud_J said, about marking the 0 degree timing on the shell........does anyone has a picture to show me exactly where is that..? I was really confuse about where and how....not that what Spud_J was not clearly identified the location, it was all me..........not a electric or motor person.

Thanks...........
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Old 04-28-2005, 03:07 PM   #28
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Get a timing jig and that will show you where 0 is. The problem with the markings on stickers is that if the sticker is off just a little, your timing can be off by as much as 2 or 3 degrees.
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Old 04-28-2005, 07:14 PM   #29
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there is a white lines and blue lines. i think the 0 timing should be the one in the middle of the blue and white lines

correct me if im wrong.
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Old 04-29-2005, 03:43 AM   #30
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