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Old 04-25-2005, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default Battery Bars vs Braided Wire

Back in the day, everyone used braids instead of battery bars.

Now, the people from Acer Racing say that braids are still better than battery bars: http://www.acerracing.com/wires.html

I find that it is much easier to assemble packs with the braids.

WHat do you use?
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:13 PM   #2
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it should not be so hard to set up some equipment to test the resistance of different battery bars/braid,

it would make a good article for RC tech to see what is "actually" the best.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:16 PM   #3
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its been proven many times before that braids are better, but yet people still dont use them for some reason....
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:28 PM   #4
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but does using braid allow more current flow from a 6cell pack? or it it already at its limit when using bars?
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:31 PM   #5
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it's a marketing thing.... what looks cool....
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:42 PM   #6
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Do braids give the same battery support that bars do? Or will it let the cells dangle between each other.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:48 PM   #7
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So instead of soldering my pigtails to battery bars it's better to do it directly to the cells?
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Do braids give the same battery support that bars do? Or will it let the cells dangle between each other.
you shouldnt be relying on your bars to support the cells anyway. Thats what glue or shoe-goo is used for.

Rod M,
good point, but i would assume that bars are'nt the absolute limit because they do get hot when run in Mod. But this could also be because the cells are getting hot and transfers the heat to the bars.

Please dont get me wrong, i run bars myself, I'm just pointing out the facts.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:56 PM   #9
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Critics would say that its only a small difference in resistance, but people also forget to realise that when you're passing over 30amps through anything, small amounts of resistance equates to a fair amount of voltage drop.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:56 PM   #10
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Given the same material used and identical mass of metal in the bar or wire, there should be zero difference in the conductivity between wire or bar.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:00 PM   #11
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Would be great if someone did a test....im interested to see if there's any difference...
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:04 PM   #12
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i tried using braid a few years ago to make a battery pack. it was braided copper. it worked like a desoldering braid. as soon as you touch the solder to the braid, the solder would go up the braid. then it became solid solder and braid. at this point i guess it matters more which type of solder you use. now i only use trinity or orion copper bars. no coating. its easier.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by nam_tc3
Would be great if someone did a test....im interested to see if there's any difference...
There would be no difference if both the wire tested and the bar contain the exact same amount of metal.

The difference would be that in high-amperage situations, higher than what we see in RC (Aircraft for example), solid connections are preferable to wire. (Or at least super-thick gauge wire).
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by nam_tc3
you shouldnt be relying on your bars to support the cells anyway. Thats what glue or shoe-goo is used for.

Actually, shoe-goo and glue are not good ideas for building batteries. The cells get hotter. It is harder to make the pack fit in a tight chassis. If you need to dissasemble the pack, the shrink wrap is ruined. When have you ever seen a pro using glue to keep his (or her) cells in-line?
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Actually, shoe-goo and glue are not good ideas for building batteries. The cells get hotter. It is harder to make the pack fit in a tight chassis. If you need to dissasemble the pack, the shrink wrap is ruined. When have you ever seen a pro using glue to keep his (or her) cells in-line?
thats why many people use an extra peice of shrink wrap over the initial peice that has the bateery label stuck on it...so if you need to rebuild, just cut the outer shrinkwrap, and viola, a new looking cell with battery label intact
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