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Old 04-27-2005, 08:48 AM   #61
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jon,

i got your back.

http://environmentalchemistry.com/yo...lectrical.html
http://web.mit.edu/3.091/www/pt/pert7.html


how do people get this wrong when there is data readily available to use as a guide? this is not a matter of opinion. it is scientific data.

so far all of the following have been nominated for, the much coveted, best conductor award:

- copper
- gold
- silver
- platinum
- aluminum <<<

yes, it is understood that each react differently as temperature is varied. but for all practical purposes, our range of interest is roughly ambient temperatures (when compared to the large range these materials can handle), which, by the way, is a fairly logical assumption if left unspecified.
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:02 AM   #62
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Thanks...

As all can see, tin and lead are not that great of conductors compared to the 'big three'. Making joint connections solely through old solder joints is pretty nasty.
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Old 04-27-2005, 11:23 AM   #63
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My god....this is not brain surgery...

It's

Silver
Copper
Gold

Platinum is way down the list, below even aluminum if I remember correctly. It does get used in enviroments where optimal connections are not required, but the ability to withstand massive heat is....

Silver does fall off a bit as it gets really hot.....Copper does also, but it goes farther up the scale before that begins to happen.

The reason you see gold plated connections a lot is not for looks really, its just the fact can resist the tarnish and oxidization silver and copper get....

And for the record.....pretty much ALL the top pros use just straight copper bars (pretty much all the trinity guys, the orion guys....no clue on reedy)...

Braided wire might look good on a multimeter on a table, but its a pain to solder without using too much, so more than likely you will end up with higher resistance anyways.....doesn't provide for a very rigid pack either....

Later EddieO
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:31 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdwca
Gee, I quoted a source--should I start using 'IBID' and footnotes?

Dude, I work on this stuff all day long and test, test, test. That's my current job (or lack thereof).

SpeedXL, do you have any sources to give this guy?
Its all over the internet!!!!!!
The miracle of modern technology, if you want proof search for it.!!!

Oh! I am a master automotive tech for Audi/Vw. 14yrs exp. Part time electrical guru! Guess that enough evidance and not an opinion.
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Old 04-27-2005, 06:19 PM   #65
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I lease a Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Beauty car, but not reliable. Lease is up next July. Next car will be an Acura.
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:15 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdwca
I lease a Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Beauty car, but not reliable. Lease is up next July. Next car will be an Acura.
smart guy!
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:19 AM   #67
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Yeah, Cuffs can tell you about my engine blowing up on the way back from a race PA and spraying antifreeze all over the windshield of his EVO.
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:26 AM   #68
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Jon, Phone home
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:46 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally posted by burbs
the purpose for braid being better is the material content is more pure... pure copper is the best material you can use.. people seem to think silve bars work best... break a silver bar in half.. you will notice they are copper on the inside.. the silver is there for looks,, it keeps the bar from tarnishing...pure copper is very soft an pliable... there is a company now making copper bars.. promatch i think./. they are buying copper braid and melting it down to make the purest bars available..

chewck the link.. i started a thread on this subject a while back.. there is alot of info and test info on the thread..

also.. braid will flow more power then a bar...just look at the car stereo industry... 12 batteries in a car, all hooked with massive wire.. the oblect for car audio is efficiency...


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=109451
i used some $2.50 pure copper cable from a shop in australia called jaycar, it was 12 or 10 guage i think, anyway, i found this "cheap" cable sucked up the solder better and made a better contact than the special gs racing hobby cable 12 gauge type i bought.

also with a CDC charger what sort of resistance ratings should i be getting for a well made pack?

thanks

if you could PM mew the answer that would be great also, as this seems like a thread that might get lost.
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