The truth about Lipo brands??
02-20-2013, 01:32 PM
#46
Seems to me the biggest difference between the cheap lipos and the more expensive ones is the number of cycles you get. Good lipos have good performance for many cycles. Cheap ones not so many.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
02-20-2013, 05:56 PM
#47
Seems to me the biggest difference between the cheap lipos and the more expensive ones is the number of cycles you get. Good lipos have good performance for many cycles. Cheap ones not so many.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
02-20-2013, 06:20 PM
#48
Seems to me the biggest difference between the cheap lipos and the more expensive ones is the number of cycles you get. Good lipos have good performance for many cycles. Cheap ones not so many.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
The other reason a lot of people are not seeing the difference is that they don't stress the battery at all. I see a lot of posts in offroad forums saying $90 batteries are a ripoff, all you need is the hobbyking $30 pack. It may be true for them, but an offroad buggy with a 17.5 is not pulling anything. I tried a 30c 4000 pack in my dirt oval sprint car with a 4.5 motor as a practice pack one time. It felt like there was a current limiter on. As soon as I went back to a 6500 60C that I normally use, the difference in rip was amazing. In a 17.5 car, you might never notice a difference.
The cheaper packs have a faster voltage drop and thats speed.
It may not be that noticeable in off-road but on carpet its huge!
Even more noticeable in 1 cell/boost racing.
Test you batteries yourself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usRE3...eature=related
02-20-2013, 07:04 PM
#49
if we decide to sell batteries under our brand,yes ill have them tested.
batteries was a critical part of our motor development/testing & that's the only reason why we have several brands & prototypes on hand, not trying to sell them to the public.
I have some data that worked for us & figured we would share them since it was eye opening to know that what I considered the top brand did not perform.
batteries was a critical part of our motor development/testing & that's the only reason why we have several brands & prototypes on hand, not trying to sell them to the public.
I have some data that worked for us & figured we would share them since it was eye opening to know that what I considered the top brand did not perform.
02-21-2013, 04:25 AM
#50
Some time ago I too was wondering also about the truth vs marketing.
I purchased an Orion 6500 90C, and when it failed I cracked open the case and found a cheap nasty PCB with copper tracks barely bigger than a couple of strands of wire. Resoldered and was good to go but this is absolutely shocking, considering I paid top dollar, and obviously 90C is far from the truth. Felt cheated, rightly I think as I paid 130$ for a 30$ pack. Anyway I found this thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=362697
Honestly I believe this thread contains some extremely good, genuine information as the testing methods were transparent, with real world amp draw. Whilst packs are not mentioned by brand, which I think was the right thing to do in this case it is possible to kind of work out which ones they are, and it helped confirm what I had experienced on track, namely that my TP and SMC packs did seem to perform best of the lipos I've personally owned.
With TP the IR has been really low on every pack I had in the last 4 years. I sometimes abuse them and charge at 20 amps. Not once has a pack swollen so that's good. I rate them really highly for perfomance, consistency and long life. Unfortunately they are very expensive, and also not the necessary choice for all situations. In mod it might be just as good to use a bit cheaper battery with higher IR and good runtime and just use a faster motor. In stock you'll likely need low IR and long runtime, so an expensive battery.
The hobbytalk thread helped me never to buy an expensive battery which actually contained a cheap one inside the case.
I purchased an Orion 6500 90C, and when it failed I cracked open the case and found a cheap nasty PCB with copper tracks barely bigger than a couple of strands of wire. Resoldered and was good to go but this is absolutely shocking, considering I paid top dollar, and obviously 90C is far from the truth. Felt cheated, rightly I think as I paid 130$ for a 30$ pack. Anyway I found this thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=362697
Honestly I believe this thread contains some extremely good, genuine information as the testing methods were transparent, with real world amp draw. Whilst packs are not mentioned by brand, which I think was the right thing to do in this case it is possible to kind of work out which ones they are, and it helped confirm what I had experienced on track, namely that my TP and SMC packs did seem to perform best of the lipos I've personally owned.
With TP the IR has been really low on every pack I had in the last 4 years. I sometimes abuse them and charge at 20 amps. Not once has a pack swollen so that's good. I rate them really highly for perfomance, consistency and long life. Unfortunately they are very expensive, and also not the necessary choice for all situations. In mod it might be just as good to use a bit cheaper battery with higher IR and good runtime and just use a faster motor. In stock you'll likely need low IR and long runtime, so an expensive battery.
The hobbytalk thread helped me never to buy an expensive battery which actually contained a cheap one inside the case.
02-21-2013, 07:17 AM
#51
I disagree if your racing in competition.
The cheaper packs have a faster voltage drop and thats speed.
It may not be that noticeable in off-road but on carpet its huge!
Even more noticeable in 1 cell/boost racing.
Test you batteries yourself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usRE3...eature=related
The cheaper packs have a faster voltage drop and thats speed.
It may not be that noticeable in off-road but on carpet its huge!
Even more noticeable in 1 cell/boost racing.
Test you batteries yourself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usRE3...eature=related
02-21-2013, 11:16 AM
#52
Hi All,
The more grip, the better the pack needs to be. Another thing is that when one pulls the pack after a run one has about 60% charge remaining. Its all about maintaining a high average voltage and the lower the IR, the higher the capacity the better.
The SMC packs are matched on IR and capacity which shows, even many many cycles down the line. The cells hold up very well, im a happy customer of theirs.
The more grip, the better the pack needs to be. Another thing is that when one pulls the pack after a run one has about 60% charge remaining. Its all about maintaining a high average voltage and the lower the IR, the higher the capacity the better.
The SMC packs are matched on IR and capacity which shows, even many many cycles down the line. The cells hold up very well, im a happy customer of theirs.
02-21-2013, 11:48 AM
#53
FWIW, I've used gens ace 2s packs pretty exclusively in stock and mod tc and I love them. Great value, performance is on par with the high dollar packs and if I short one out, not a big deal.
For 1s however, generic packs are far, far behind. Gens ace isn't even close, and the turnigy 1s pack has good capacity, but the punch just isn't there.
For 1s however, generic packs are far, far behind. Gens ace isn't even close, and the turnigy 1s pack has good capacity, but the punch just isn't there.
02-21-2013, 04:30 PM
#54
FWIW, I've used gens ace 2s packs pretty exclusively in stock and mod tc and I love them. Great value, performance is on par with the high dollar packs and if I short one out, not a big deal.
For 1s however, generic packs are far, far behind. Gens ace isn't even close, and the turnigy 1s pack has good capacity, but the punch just isn't there.
For 1s however, generic packs are far, far behind. Gens ace isn't even close, and the turnigy 1s pack has good capacity, but the punch just isn't there.
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