Tamiya TT02 Thread
|
|||
#1921
I'd like to but that's a $120 servo/reciver. Already spent about $50 on motor and ESC. Hoping the $30 SR215 reciver will be all I need. The LHS told me they use these S6180 servos with the TNLE02 ESCs and never had any problems. I should get that reciver by Thursday. Hopefully that will fix it.
Last edited by proliteandsc; 04-07-2019 at 07:58 PM.
#1924
Tech Initiate
Oil filled shocks (tamiya part #54753) might also be worth getting which will make the suspension less bouncy, especially useful if you plan on driving it over a rough ground. They will also handle more dust and dirt than the standard friction shocks before they need to be rebuilt/cleaned.
#1925
Thinking of picking the Tamiya Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo 1991 1/10 TT-02 Electric Rally Kit
It will be my first build and I’ll probably keep it pretty bone stock. Or do I really need to upgrade the kit to enjoy it?
It’ll be a fun car, no competitions or anything
It will be my first build and I’ll probably keep it pretty bone stock. Or do I really need to upgrade the kit to enjoy it?
It’ll be a fun car, no competitions or anything
-I'd recommend full bearings for both situations,
however when I first built my TT02, I built it w/ the intention of driving in the parking lot. I built it w/ bearings otherwise it was 100% stock. It runs great and handles well for parking lot fun in nearly stock form.
A year or so later my older son (who was about 10 at the time) started expressing that he wanted to race RC cars w/ me. I converted my TT02 for his use in a novice race class. At this point and if its used for racing I would at minimum: 1) upgrade the shocks to oil filled shocks w/ adjustable collars ...this is really a must if you want it to handle well on a track. 2) I upgraded the top A-arms front and back to adjustable camber links (pivot balls w/ threaded links), ...this is a must too as you'll want to adjust camber front and back. 3) I upgraded the steering linkage to aluminum (from the stock plastic). This is less important than 1 and 2 above, yet it will help give more precise steering which again is helpful when racing. 4) less important, but i'd make sure your drivetrain is using the aluminum parts (not the stock plastic ones), aluminum motor mount w/ adjustable mounting options is also nice to have (not the one w/ the holed slots, but the one w/ the ability to slide the motor forward/back then tighten ..I think Yeah Racing makes it). Get a good set of tires too! Oh, almost forgot, I also put a brushless 21.5t motor in it (I turned the throttle EPA down initially and slowly increased the speed as my sons got better w/ the car).
My son used our TT-02 in the above setup for about 2 seasons, he's now almost 13 and is using a TC7.1 for VTA class. My youngest son is now using the same TT-02 (he is on his 2nd season w/ the car). Point is the TT-02 is a GREAT car for beginners, its strong, parts are not expensive and its easy to work on and fix.
#1926
-Hoyle33, don't forget to post some photos of your build and finished car!
#1927
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
It's worth building it with a full ball bearing set (tamiya part #54476 or a set from the multitude of 3rd party vendors) because the standard kit comes with plastic bushings which wear out quickly.
Oil filled shocks (tamiya part #54753) might also be worth getting which will make the suspension less bouncy, especially useful if you plan on driving it over a rough ground. They will also handle more dust and dirt than the standard friction shocks before they need to be rebuilt/cleaned.
Oil filled shocks (tamiya part #54753) might also be worth getting which will make the suspension less bouncy, especially useful if you plan on driving it over a rough ground. They will also handle more dust and dirt than the standard friction shocks before they need to be rebuilt/cleaned.
Suggestions for the parts missing from the kit?
- 2 channel radio system
- Steering servo
- Polycarbonate paint for body
- 7.2V battery & charger
Anything else I’m missing?
#1928
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Any worthwhile radio system is going to be 3-4-6 channel. Steering servo... well local shops tend not to have great selections. You can go cheap, and at first you won't notice the difference, but a "good" servo makes a huge difference as you get better.
The manual will tell you the paint you need to replicate the box art. Budget some masking tape too. And buy white or silver paint to back up the color you paint the body. Since you're going to be bashing, pick up some e6000 or shoe goo, and fiberglass drywall tape. If you're feeling froggy, some aluminum duct sealing tape is a good idea too. You use the aluminum tape where the tires might rub. You use the glue and tape where the body might crack.
You'll want a 4-7000mah 2s lipo pack. And a charger. A "b6" series charger is probally what you should hunt down.
The manual will tell you the paint you need to replicate the box art. Budget some masking tape too. And buy white or silver paint to back up the color you paint the body. Since you're going to be bashing, pick up some e6000 or shoe goo, and fiberglass drywall tape. If you're feeling froggy, some aluminum duct sealing tape is a good idea too. You use the aluminum tape where the tires might rub. You use the glue and tape where the body might crack.
You'll want a 4-7000mah 2s lipo pack. And a charger. A "b6" series charger is probally what you should hunt down.
#1929
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Any worthwhile radio system is going to be 3-4-6 channel. Steering servo... well local shops tend not to have great selections. You can go cheap, and at first you won't notice the difference, but a "good" servo makes a huge difference as you get better.
The manual will tell you the paint you need to replicate the box art. Budget some masking tape too. And buy white or silver paint to back up the color you paint the body. Since you're going to be bashing, pick up some e6000 or shoe goo, and fiberglass drywall tape. If you're feeling froggy, some aluminum duct sealing tape is a good idea too. You use the aluminum tape where the tires might rub. You use the glue and tape where the body might crack.
You'll want a 4-7000mah 2s lipo pack. And a charger. A "b6" series charger is probally what you should hunt down.
The manual will tell you the paint you need to replicate the box art. Budget some masking tape too. And buy white or silver paint to back up the color you paint the body. Since you're going to be bashing, pick up some e6000 or shoe goo, and fiberglass drywall tape. If you're feeling froggy, some aluminum duct sealing tape is a good idea too. You use the aluminum tape where the tires might rub. You use the glue and tape where the body might crack.
You'll want a 4-7000mah 2s lipo pack. And a charger. A "b6" series charger is probally what you should hunt down.
Also, do I need a separate charger for 2S LiPo’s when I already have a SkyRC D100 charger that charges my 3S and 4S LiPo’s?
#1931
Your charger is perfect and completely capable of charging 2S lipos. Just plug balance lead into 2S port on balance board and set charger up for 2S balance charge. Lots of good batteries out there. I have had great luck with protek Batteries. Iwould recommend staying away from cheap radio system. I run and recommend Futaba stuff. The 3PV isn't too expensive and has lots of features. Sanwa and Spectrum also have descent entry level stuff too. Savox servos are descent, but my recommendation is the new Protek HV servos. Pricey but worth it imo. Gens ace batteries are also a great value and I have had some last several years.
#1933
Tech Initiate
Assuming you're budget conscious, building a stock TT02 kit:
Radio:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...io-system.html
Servo:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tracksta...09sec-57g.html
Batteries - search Hobbyking for "7.2V stick pack". Any of the Sub-C stick packs will fit - note the higher capacity packs are heavier. Personally I've got a few of the turnigy 2000mAh packs (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ries-nimh.html) which should give you 10+ minutes run time on a stock motor
Paint - search "Tamiya PS"
Battery Charger*:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...v-capable.html
Tamiya battery plug to banana plugs cable for charging with above charger:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tamiya-a...g-adapter.html
Have personally used all of the above and can recommend them for the price. *For the Accucell battery charger you need to buy a suitable 12V DC powersupply if you don't already have one. I use a laptop power brick style 12V DC, 5Amps: https://www.newark.com/powerpax/sw37...14_US%2Fsearch
Might need to cut and splice the barrel jack cable included with the accucell to your powersupply because the accucell uses a DC jack with a 2.5mm pin rather than the more common 2.1mm
Could probably get away with a cheaper wallwart style trickle charger if you plan to only ever use NiMH packs, but the accucell is definitely worth it if you want to fast charge larger capacity packs and future proofs you for LiPos.
Last edited by nbTMM; 04-11-2019 at 03:22 AM.
#1934
Tech Adept
Futaba...
T3PV
I would also recommend Futaba stuff. I have T3PV in use for nearly 2 years and I'm totally satisfied. This thing ist well done, sturdy, range more than sufficient, use with multiple receivers in several Cars as easy as it can be.
Different setings can be confusing at the beginning, but you get used to it rather quick.
Michael
I would also recommend Futaba stuff. I have T3PV in use for nearly 2 years and I'm totally satisfied. This thing ist well done, sturdy, range more than sufficient, use with multiple receivers in several Cars as easy as it can be.
Different setings can be confusing at the beginning, but you get used to it rather quick.
Michael
#1935
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
That's a good servo. I use it in my 4wd buggy and Mini. But, the battery recomendation isn't good. One of the biggest thigns that has made this hobby so much ~better~ are lipo batterys. He's also got a lipo charger already, so recomending a PSU, DC charger, and Nicad/nimh isn't to his advantage.
... I didn't recomend a servo because I was under the impression they were buying from the local shop.
... I didn't recomend a servo because I was under the impression they were buying from the local shop.