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Tamiya TT02 Thread

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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 02-02-2020, 02:14 PM
  #2296  
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Originally Posted by Woof6
so the 02r would be a better option? are any parts interchangeable with the 01? Did the win at all cost years ago, just looking to hit new local track once a month or so
If cost is your concern, any upgraded TT series car isn't a great choice. A TT02r is $136, and doesn't have threaded shocks, swaybars, droop screws, sealed diff, or spool. ... and is $20 more expensive than a Sakura Advance S, or Sakura XI Sport ver.Nu. Or XQ1s. Or Blaze R2. The TT series cars are ~solid~ $30 cars. When you buy them with a body, wheels, tires, esc, and such, you're getting a great deal for a hobby grade car. If you're replacing the body, wheels and tires and getting a race legal motor and esc.... well that deal doesn't sound so good anymore.

But... at the R price... unless you ~need~ a tamiya tub, or you need sealed drivetrain.... there's not a lot of good argument for it.

So, what are you really wanting? Why is compatibility with the TT01 a question?
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Old 02-02-2020, 03:38 PM
  #2297  
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I have time, as there is nothing going on yil at least march. was looking at tamiya because of cost of parts. we have no local hobby shop, so everything will have to be online. I have looked a bit at the sakura so may explore that a liitle more thoroughly. thanks for all the input
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Old 02-02-2020, 10:22 PM
  #2298  
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Originally Posted by Woof6
so the 02r would be a better option? are any parts interchangeable with the 01? Did the win at all cost years ago, just looking to hit new local track once a month or so
I don't think much is interchangeable, diffs might be since the DF02 (TT01 offroad cousin) diffs fit the TT02B. The TT02 Type S is the best of them as it has TRF418 suspension on it. The Type s might not be legal for some classes, its banned from most TTo2 classes as far as I know, however its the most capable and would do ok in the slower touring car classes.

The TT02SR has been announced and is the Type S with some extra hopups and would be the pick but who knows when it will actually be released.

The R is just the base one with some hopups. The RR is better and has oil filled diffs which are useful.

You could also look at stuff like the Express XQ1S which is by all accounts very capable and a good price point. If these had been out when I bought my TA07 Pro I would have gone with the Express and saved some money
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Old 02-02-2020, 11:32 PM
  #2299  
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I had my son run the S for a season. We couldn't finish a race without breaking the front end at least once per outing. C-hubs are out of stock across the world in most cases (btw this is TRF415 suspension, not 418). It has the worst of both worlds, older racecar suspension fragility with so much slop it's pointless anyway, and el-cheapo tamiya all-the-rest. Pure disaster. A stock TT02 + bearings is a much better choice than a S because the front suspension at least holds itself together... but in all fairness ANY budget racecar (sakura, teamC, heck even the hobbyking clone) is a better choice than a TT02 if you're going to hit the track at all. the next season, I handed him my old Xray T3 2012 over... I think across the whole season he broke one c-hub, (remember the car was already 6 or 7 years old by then)... TT02 is fantastic to have fun on the parking lot with awesome bodies. The moment you hit the track you realize there are MUCH better options that are just marginally more expensive.
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Old 02-03-2020, 09:15 AM
  #2300  
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[QUOTE=Woof6;15588750]Hello All, 20+ year racer, but been out about 10 years now and looking to get back on a very slim budget. I don't really know anything about Tamiya, but founf this and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Based on the tt01-e, which so I've read so far not the best of choice for VTA. But this has the upgrades and CF chassis so thought it might be a viable choice. Can't beat the price. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

I think this car is more for drifting then racing.
I would see what the other people are using at the track. You might get lucky and they might have a class requiring a chassis that doesn't cost much, to get people into racing. Track I race at has a class for stock tt-02. I can race for about $350 and know I'm not competing against people with about $3000 into their car.
I would look for a used X-ray, Associated or some other chassis made for racing, if your looking to save money and be competitive on a track with open chassis racing.

Last edited by proliteandsc; 02-03-2020 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 02-03-2020, 09:34 AM
  #2301  
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Default TCS TT02

anyone racing in TCS this year with the TT02? do you mind sharing some setup?
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Old 02-04-2020, 04:33 PM
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Old 02-07-2020, 08:20 PM
  #2303  
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Anyone know when Tamiya will start selling that Type-sr TT-02 and what they want for it?
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Old 02-08-2020, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by proliteandsc
Anyone know when Tamiya will start selling that Type-sr TT-02 and what they want for it?
Should be out by late March / Early April
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Old 02-08-2020, 03:49 AM
  #2305  
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Sorry im just not reading through al 154 pages but how is it to drive with the alu drift conversion kit? The one that adds alot of steering angle but makes it RWD. I meen without a gyro (which i consider cheating )
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Old 02-08-2020, 12:06 PM
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:43 PM
  #2307  
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Looking to probably get a Type-S if the SR doesn't come out soon for VTA racing. Found a few upgrades and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them.

3Racing
TT02-03 steering system
TT02-08 graphite main shaft. Are ends steel or aluminum?
TT02-09 gear diff

Yeah Racing
TATT019BU rear adjustable suspension mount. Will this work with the Type-S arms?
TT02-015 universal joints
TT02-013BU motor mount
TT02-042BU steering set
TT02-014BU main drive shaft
TT02-016BU main shaft joints

Square
SQ-STD-442SPR 42mm axle

Wanted to know if anyone used any of these and their experience with them. Thanks
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:55 PM
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The 3racing gear diff is the best for this chassis. Just check the left right play after the first runs and shim if necessary. Also don’t use the bevel gear that comes with the diff!
The Yeah racing motor mount works fine.
Everything else would I buy from Tamiya, because the quality of Yeah- and 3Racing aluminium parts is questionable...

For the suspension go for Tamiya graphite arms and hubs. They will stiffen up the suspension and make the car a lot better. If possible not the 416 arms, because they will make the car even narrower. If your wallet allows it go for dcj in front.
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Old 02-09-2020, 02:00 AM
  #2309  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
The 3racing gear diff is the best for this chassis. Just check the left right play after the first runs and shim if necessary. Also don’t use the bevel gear that comes with the diff!
The Yeah racing motor mount works fine.
Everything else would I buy from Tamiya, because the quality of Yeah- and 3Racing aluminium parts is questionable...

For the suspension go for Tamiya graphite arms and hubs. They will stiffen up the suspension and make the car a lot better. If possible not the 416 arms, because they will make the car even narrower. If your wallet allows it go for dcj in front.
By bevel gears on the 3 racing diff, do you mean the internal diff gears or the one on the end of the prop shaft? Do the tamiya gears fit inside the diff if it is these you are talking about? Been considering getting one of these diffs for my Type S.
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:59 AM
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I dont know about you all but I have an issue with the motor mounts by Yeah.......... seams when trying to tighten the top bolt it tightens the spear.... I have had to drill out the mount to get it to work right. is any one else having this issue ?
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