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Old 04-05-2003, 09:21 AM   #1276
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ttt
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:47 PM   #1277
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I guess we are all waiting for our new cars LOL

just keeping the list going
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:57 PM   #1278
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Does anyone know when Corally is finally going to get around to posting some decent pictures of the Assassin? I particularly want to see GOOD pictures of it in the single-belt direct drive setup.
I wish Corally would give us fans some decent pics!!!
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Old 04-15-2003, 07:43 PM   #1279
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I will see what I can do about getting some single belt pics. Since there are still only a few in team drivers hands single belt pics have not been taken of the production version. Since Sakke and Simmo run Modified Classes their cars are the ones photographed. There are not many people at the Corally plant to have taking pictures. They are all working on the speedy release of this kit. All of the pictures in the world will not help if there is no kit to turn around and buy. I hope to have one of the first production kits to hit the U.S.A. If there are not any pics by then I will be sure to put them up as soon as I get one in. The new Assassin has been improving on the design and on track finishes latley. The latest prototype/final version finished 3rd at the LRP Masters a few weeks ago. Simmo was the only driver with the latest version at the race. They seem to be done with the testing and on to making the first production run. We are in the home streatch!!!!!! It won't be long now!!!!!

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Old 04-15-2003, 07:51 PM   #1280
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How much Jeff????????
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Old 04-15-2003, 07:53 PM   #1281
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Spooky, I have not broken alot of the front arms on the 12m myself. But at Cleveland this year there seemed to be a few of the team members that broke them. I CA and round the edges of all of my graphite parts. It tends to keep the laminations of the graphite from spliting and getting weak. I have not tried the fiberglass arms. I would tend to belive that they would only make the front end bite a little more due to the extra flex and weight of them. These are things that can be adjusted though. I also do not think that they break any more than other styles of front ends of other models. If you are trimming the edges down like I do for the lowered roll center of the front end then they may break a little more as you ar removing some of the mass that supports it. This is the ony time that I have broken any myself. Let me know if any of this helps.

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Old 04-15-2003, 08:04 PM   #1282
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Whats up Rob!!!!! We have not received the final cost yet from Holland. If I do my Euro conversion correctly from what I have seen it will be between 325-375 Street U.S. This will include the two types of drive train. The Master version will be the first released. This kit will have all of the hop-ups. A standard kit will be released later. There are many machined parts on the Master that will have to be turned into molded parts before the standard kit is released. Prices may still change since there has not been a final price given.

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Old 04-15-2003, 08:16 PM   #1283
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Thanks for the suggestions Jeff. No I am not changing the roll center by grinding. They are bone stock... I have only broken 1.. oops now two the other day.. I dont hit the boards that much... and I never broke an arm with my 12l3. I really like the car, but the arm situation is starting to bother me. I am gonna make small kydex bumper for the front and screw it into the extra holes in the chassis. Has anyone else done this ?
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Old 04-15-2003, 08:22 PM   #1284
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Jantle

Is there anywhere that has setup tips, and tuning suggestions for the 12M, i cant seem to find out how to tune it properly.

I am having problems with a lack of rear grip coming out of a corner, just before it straightens up the rear end wants to whip around.
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Old 04-15-2003, 08:29 PM   #1285
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I made a bumper from an old BRp tc3 kydex bumper. It's a little clumsy to install.

At my former track (now closed and car long ago sold) they used pvc pipe for barriers. The bumper would go under the rounded pipe and hit the wheel through the body causing the arm to break.

I think I only broke one arm and, ironically, while practicing for the first time with the bumper. I always break in practice.

I imagine it would work if your track had flat boards. I didn't notice any big differences in handling. Loved the way that car drove.

Also, if you do break an arm, be sure to replace it with the same type of material as the other arm. Don't mix graphite with glass front arms.
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Old 04-15-2003, 10:03 PM   #1286
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Besercoe, There are not alot of places to go for Set-up tips for the 12M. We will be working to change that soon. The 12M is getting more and more popular every day. People are learning how easy the car is to drive right out of the box. Also the car can be driven in a sucsessful manner with little upkeep. Please give me the type of surface and motor type that you are using. I have a few ideas already but may be able to help further once I get more details. I believe that your car may be getting light in the rear end while the car transfers weight to the front end since the car is almost through it's accelerating process. We need to make an adjustment to keep the weight on the rear tires for a few moments longer. Or the car may also be diffing a little in the rear. When the inside rear tire gains traction it is spinning in the oposite direction causing it to snap out on you. It is all about weight transfer. The point of the turn that you are talking about is when the car is starting to flaten out. Are you using the tweak screws? What damper syrup are you using front and rear? etc.

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Corally U.S.A.
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Old 04-15-2003, 11:13 PM   #1287
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OK the car is basically stock, i just got the car and ran it last weekend, beofre that i had the old car, and it still exibited similar problems but no where near as bad. We tried the treak screws and it became very twitchy, we put heavy damper syrup in and it felt better, carries a ton of speed into the corner but not coming out, i feel very nervous with applying throttle.

We run 4 cell mod, currently i am only using a core 10x2 as i am waiting on some new packs, and runtime can be an issue, we are running outdoors on ashphalt, not a massive amount, but reasonably smooth.

currently running kit tires. i had intended to go to a harder front, although donuts/premounts are not available at the moment.
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Old 04-16-2003, 09:30 PM   #1288
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Besercoe, Have you checked the rear diff condition? It could be slipping and causing the spin when it catches. Here is a base set-up to try.

Silver Front tires
Glass fiber stabelizer
1.0 mm front spring
Middle hole on on-line stearing blocks


Green Rear tires
Glass fiber t-bar
Make sure that the Spur gear does not slip while holding the rear tires and trying to turn the gear with your fingers. and make sure that it is smooth.
Play with the damper syrup for track conditions
Try using the tweek screws just off of the t-bar to limit roll

I am also checking with some other drivers for some of their set-ups. I run 1/12th on carpet and only have tried it on asphalt a few times. Good luck!!!!!!

Jeff Antle
Corally U.S.A.

Sorry if some of this stuff is basic but I just can't see your car from here
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Old 04-16-2003, 10:26 PM   #1289
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no basic is good, i know little about 12th, all my time has been in offroad and tourers.

Thanks

Tell me i have been told that a tight diff will make the car push more, i would have thought a tight diff would make it twitchy like it does on a tourer?

Also tighter rear pod = more or less rear traction.

i assume the glass rear plate is not as stiff making the suspension softer and thus providing more rear grip. i was surprised when i got the new car, as it is so much stiffer than AE type cars.
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Old 04-16-2003, 10:57 PM   #1290
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I guess that I should have been a little more clear in saying that you need a tight diff. There is a diffrence between having the diff effect tight and the spur gear not move under acceleration. The latter is what we are looking for. It is possible to keep the spur from spinning and still have a free diff. Pan cars are a little diffrent from touring cars since they have a straight axel for the rear. I tight diff will make that end of the car break traction. The outside tire has a greater distance to travel than that of the inside. By tightening the diff it slowes down the amount of rotation of the outside wheel causing it to break traction. That is why people that run a spool in the front of their T/C say that it has a bit of a push that you have to get used to. Diff settings are just another tuning aid to get the car to do what you want.

Hope this helps!!!

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Corally U.S.A.
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