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Old 11-19-2001, 01:43 PM   #406
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MikeR: the R5's are nice, and I'm sure they flex less than the Pro-line rims, but I saw a guy ("Ron" on this board) break one of his R5 wheels clean in half a weekend or two ago! Thats never happened to my Gumbys!

Oh, by the way, I figured out why the car was swinging the rear end around going through some turns that one weekend. It was exactly what I thought it was, a bent hinge pin. Some how I keep bending the rear right side hinge pin(when viewing the car from behind). I don't even know how I'm doing it.

O'well, I guess I know to order some of those now. I haven't noticed any difference between the hardened units or the light weight ones.

Its good to hear that you are going to be sticking with your 4.1!

Trips: I haven't used any of the other Proline wheels, so I can't say for sure what the difference in the off-set is. Sorry.
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Old 11-19-2001, 02:06 PM   #407
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lol- i've seen one other person break his R-5 rim here too. It was one of those repeated heavy crashes that would of broke something eventually- it just turned out to be the rim For me, I don't even have a crack in my rims even after breaking knuckles or bending pins- just lucky maybe.

I'm finding out once you bend the hinge pin it's time to just replace them (they lose their strength) so i've ordered a few too.
My silver steel definitely last longer than aluminums though.
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Old 11-19-2001, 03:46 PM   #408
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MikeR: Oh, I agree about the bent hinge pins. Once they bend, I just replace them. I don't try to reuse them.

The guy Ron just plain hit something really hard. It wasn't a repeated impact thing cause he is a good driver, it was just a good hard impact!

I guess I will try the silver steel pins if you feel their stronger. But, I've bent them both. Bad part is, I still don't know what the hell I did to do it! Its kind of frustrating, really!
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Old 11-19-2001, 04:35 PM   #409
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just run the alloy pins, as the silversteel still bend quite easily on the rear, and we have found the alloy is actually a little forgiving, and car flex a little..

might as well save some weight...

my car is 25 grams underweight, with new rubber tires and just the lightweight hingepins front and rear...

imagine with the lightweight pivotballs going on next
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Old 11-19-2001, 04:44 PM   #410
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At the NORRCA race a few months ago my car was 3oz underweight! I had to attach a large heap of lead on the chassis- man was it beastly. Wish the racing bodies would get a clue and mandate a more reasonable (sic useful ) weight.
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Old 11-19-2001, 05:33 PM   #411
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Quote:
Originally posted by King-G
just run the alloy pins, as the silversteel still bend quite easily on the rear, and we have found the alloy is actually a little forgiving, and car flex a little..

might as well save some weight...

my car is 25 grams underweight, with new rubber tires and just the lightweight hingepins front and rear...

imagine with the lightweight pivotballs going on next
What weight limit are you guys working with??? 1450???

Who remembers in the early days of RC Touring when there would be guys running around with 1100gram Yokomo's (YR4's), it was always a comp to make you car as light as possible (made for very fragile cars)
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Old 11-19-2001, 06:38 PM   #412
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What about when some of the cars were so light. Races organised by the importer actually had a reduced weight limit, ie Roadrunner
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:20 PM   #413
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Quote:
Originally posted by Besercoe
What about when some of the cars were so light. Races organised by the importer actually had a reduced weight limit, ie Roadrunner
Yeh what was the limit??? 1300g?
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Old 11-19-2001, 09:46 PM   #414
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I do think the rules have been in place for a while and it might be time for a revision! I mean, I think the ROAR minimum is like 50 or 52 ounces or something like that. No modern day car is even close to that. So everyone HAS to add weight.

I remember racing agaist the early RS4 Pro. That thing was a true feather weight! Thats still the lightest TC I have ever seen. The Xpress would be a close second with the Xray pulling up the rear.

As for the rear hinge pins, I'll just order both types and see how each works out. If I'm lucky I wont bend any more. My guess is that I brushed the pipe or something like that. Thats about the only way I can see bending the rear pins without doing anything damaging to the front.
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Old 11-20-2001, 06:16 AM   #415
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our limit is 1500gr ready to race (with transponder).
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Old 11-20-2001, 11:07 AM   #416
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In the states NORRCA is 52 ounces while ROAR is 53oz- both race ready not including the additional weight of the transponder!
These rules were created for the old Tamiya TAO1 & 2's of the time which actually weighed this much and were the first sedans on the market so the rules were made to suit them. It's bout time they were updated wouldn't you say!? My car race ready is 49oz and it's not like i've drilled any holes or run aluminum hinges! lol!
Although titanium pillow balls help
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Old 11-20-2001, 04:03 PM   #417
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we run to 1500 grams on rubber tires, without transponder.
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Old 11-20-2001, 05:35 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally posted by King-G
we run to 1500 grams on rubber tires, without transponder.
...and for the US guys 1500 Grams equals 48.2261 Ounces. So 52 or 53 Ounces is way heavy! Most of the races i attend in NSW are using weight limits of 1450g (46.6 ounces).
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Old 11-20-2001, 05:38 PM   #419
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No wonder they dont have any troubles making the weight limits, at 52-53 ounces.

I have always had problems accepting that my car is so overweight, compared to reports of needing to add weights over in the US
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Old 11-20-2001, 06:35 PM   #420
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That perfectly illustrates the arcane rules we use here in the states- mostly influenced by ROAR. It's an attempt to make things economical but actually it's only comical...
We have to add all this weight and thus overheat our batteries and motors and put more abuse on our tires in an effort to make heavier non-raceworthy 'cheaper' cars competitive...
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