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Old 10-25-2001, 01:17 PM   #286
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thanks for the info darkside! Do you think it is worth for me to buy the Corally C4.1 conversion for my AGLE? I'm pretty satisfied w/ my corally now, but I do have a problem with looping out if I get on the throttle a bit too soon coming out of a turn.
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Old 10-25-2001, 03:21 PM   #287
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I like that snap ring idea. Bet they would be dificult to find though.
I need the Titanium Impulse hinge pin if there is any such thing- modified motors and tracks that have steel posts and cement parking curbs arn't hinge pin friendly That's probably why my old style axles are shot too.

I saw a C.4.1 in the for sale section for $150- that's a better deal than an upgrade kit.
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Old 10-25-2001, 07:17 PM   #288
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Darkside: No, the snaprings don't interfere w/ the bearings or cause any friction or binding. When I saw the picture in the Japanese RC magazine I immediately got hold of them thru a Bearing Center and tried them on. Not only was the fit perfect but maintenance of the bearings was a breeze. I believe they also call them "CIRCLIP" and the size is 12, I think.

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Old 10-25-2001, 07:40 PM   #289
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Try www.atomichobbies.com for the Serpent parts. They have the largest Sepent inventory in the US.
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Old 10-26-2001, 07:56 AM   #290
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Blue: thanks for the info.

Porkybmx: well with a little tuning here and there, you can rid yourself of the on power spinouts. But, I do think its worth it to upgrade to the C4.1 or like MikeR said find one used. Its just an all around better car. But, theres no hurry if you happy with the car now.
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Old 10-29-2001, 09:07 AM   #291
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Come on guys, I can't believe the thread slipped back to the second page!

You guys have to have something to talk about........

.......anything.....???


Well in any case the thread is heading..UP,UP,UP,UP


To da top baby!
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Old 10-29-2001, 10:25 AM   #292
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What is there to say? The car is hooked up, smokin' fast and indistructable! If I say anything it would only be to brag about the car
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Old 10-29-2001, 11:20 AM   #293
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Well, brag away!!!
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Old 10-29-2001, 04:11 PM   #294
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Ive got myself a swag of sorex tyres for an upcoming meeting, what inserts have you guys run in the 32's and 36's for outdoor asphalt in summer?
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Old 10-29-2001, 06:00 PM   #295
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HPI green!
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Old 10-29-2001, 07:57 PM   #296
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kewl thanks damo, yeah i have mounted up one set already with greens, and have heard to use the hpi iners...i picked green cause i had heard red worked well, but even blue worked well, so i decided to go inbetween to get an idea of what my track requires
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Old 10-30-2001, 09:52 AM   #297
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NO problem King. All I do know for sure is don't put Yokomo inserts in them. You will have a brand new tire with a groove on the inside. Kinda sucks I wasted two pairs first.
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Old 10-30-2001, 03:57 PM   #298
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can you tell me whether the 32's are a good tire for mild conditions?..I plan to run them in conditions where previously I had run HPI 33r with red inners.

I have heard mixed reports on the 32's, but i know the 28's and 36's work well either side of this compound...

my worry is that I have bought 4 sets of them without running sorex before, I know that the sorex are sucessfull everywhere in the world for outdoor racing in warm to hot temps..just wanting some feedback on your experiences with them..lifespan, consistency etc..

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Old 10-31-2001, 03:06 AM   #299
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hello corally owners!

i got a mr4-tc, my only bad thoughts about that car is that its too fragile. so i'm thinking of buying the corally c4 since it looks durable! i need to know some info b4 buying a used C4 kit.
>what parts that are usually torn or bent, hinge pin is one!
>what's the difference between the C4 and C4.1?
>what important hop-ups do i need to purchase?
>is it a lot better than pro2 in durability?
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Old 10-31-2001, 08:54 AM   #300
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maski: All right heres the run down.

-The only real weak point on the car is the hinge pins. The fact is that this is a neccesary evil. When you hit something, SOMETHING HAS to give way. On this car its the hinge pins. A peice of advice though, the hardened pins aren't really any better than the light weight ones, so stick with the light weight units.

-The difference between the C4 and C4.1 is huge. First the C4 AGLE has a longer wheelbase than the C4, and the C4.1 wheelbase is even longer than the C4 AGLE! Both cars use graphite chassis, but the C4.1 uses the flake style graphite that we usually associate with the "graphite" look. Of course the battery layout is different and the bulkheads are different. The new bulkheads lower the diff and its outdrives slightly to keep the universals at level.

-Well if you're getting an original C4, I would say pick up the C4.1 upgrade. It turns ANY version of the C4 into the C4.1. It goes for $149.00, $30 cheaper than it was originally. For what you get, its a great deal. You get a whole new chassis(upper and lower), all new black anodized bulkheads, new battery holders, new shocktowers and body mount, and a new front belt. And any hardware you need to make the transformation. After that I would suggest looking at the transponder mount, new "full round" axles, and some would suggest the front one-way diff.

-I would give it a slight edge over the Pro2 in durability. Why? Because the C4.1 doesn't have king pins. Any car with king pins is prone to bending them. So thats about the only thing I have noticed that was different between my C4.1 and my buddy's Pro2 in durability.

You could also surf the buy and sell forum here or the one on www.hobbytalk.com and see if you can find a used C4.1, instead of buying the C4 and upgrading. Either way, you can't go wrong with a Corally!
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