CarbonJoe

I've been using Lunsford 4x20mm titanium ones. I might get their 4x23mm ones.

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

thanks. i'll order the 23mm and give them a try.

Ph3nyx

i've taken the dimensions on mine and it's more like 4mm x 20 mm

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

You can't go wrong with the Lunsford turnbuckles. The stock aluminum ones are pretty weak? I swapped them out and have not had a problem since.

infinique

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys,

Just like to share my built with F2012. I didn't do the optional pontoon part, just used what it came with the shell. Only have to rework a little on the front wing.

My front is lacking of some steering, even using the softest spring from kit, camber is -0.5 degree, with slight toe out by 0.5. Any advise? Rear end grip is very good.

Cheers,
MW

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7t...it?usp=sharing

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

Change out the front springs to small dia 1/10 scale (slightly longer than 1/12 scale) .016-.018's and set camber at -1-1/2. This is for carpet racing with Pardus spec tires.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Need more information...
What tires are you running? (most important)
Ride height?
Droop?
battery position?
Ackerman?
My Flash-04 had almost no steering when I first ran it but now it's pretty dialed.

If you are running on pavement, the Pit Shimizu tires work really well.
Soft rear and Medium fronts when cool and Med rear/hard fronts for warmer temps.

ERL2004

I am also suffering huge understeer problem with my car.
Need some help. Setup as follows

Ride Tires (can only use this)

ride height: F =6mm R=6mm (cannot get anything lower than 6mm with front, don't know why, try to play with all the shim position on the king pin, my front chassis cannot hit the ground, there is not enough travel)

front spring: soft

Toe out 0.5

Camber = -1

center shock= 500 cst red sprin

side spring: medium

Side damper: 5000 cst

Help please

Ph3nyx

you can try 30000 cst in the side damper, even more
you can also try to raise the rear height by 1mm (a difference of 1mm between the front and the rear) , but it's strange , on my flash04 i can go to 5mm front with rubber ...
check that you have 0.5mm droop in the front too.

MAD916

ERL with the Ride tires you may want to try front ride height shims under the front bulkhead they come in .5 and 1mm sizes, that should get you dialed in.

http://www.timezonehobbies.com/index...roducts_id=943

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

+1
I have run these tire without a ride height problem. Droop is the key. A shim will need to be left out to achieve this.
Rear droop is also pretty critical as weight transfer is largely controlled by the center shock assembly. If you are pushing while entering the corners, a little drag brake can help a lot but be careful not to use too much.

ERL2004

I am sorry. How do you measure droop for F1?
What is droop, this is a somewhat vague concept to me.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I'm glad you asked as it is more apparent that this may be your problem with under steer. When the car sits under its own weight, the suspension compresses a certain amount, right? The difference between this compression and where the suspension rests when lifted is " droop". As far as the front kingpins go, if you set the car on a flat surface with the battery installed, the front springs should compress about 0.5 - 0.75mm. If not, there is too much preload on the springs that is adjustable by removing a shim from the top of the steering block. Now when the car is sitting, you should see the spring compress a little, creating a gap between the remaining spacers under the steering block and the steering block itself. When you lift the front of the car, the wheels should drop slightly on the kingpins. It's this movement or play is what creates the "droop".
The middle shock is a little different but the concept remains the same. When the car is under its own weight, the middle spring should compress slightly and when you lift the rear of the car where the chassis and pod attach, the pod will pivot downward. The difference in this angle is "droop". The angle equates to chassis height at the pivot point and can be adjusted by changing the overall length of the shock when fully extended. This can be done by screwing in or out the ball attachment at the end of the shock shaft and/or the internal spacers that were installed on the shock shaft between the piston and shock body.
To measure the droop at the middle, you just set the spring adjustment so that the pod and chassis are flat (equal height) under the cars weight and then tilt the pod backwards by grabbing the rear wing and pulling back. The pod should pivot a little. Measure the ride height difference between when at rest and when tilted at the pivot zone. This will be your droop value. I have found that 1.0 - 1.5mm of droop works best for me here. Any more than this caused on power oversteer. It took me awhile to figure out that pan cars don't respond to chassis changes like a fully suspended car does and once I got my head around the way these cars transfer weight, it all made sense. Look for an article that Brian Bodine wrote for 1/12th scale setup changes and it will defiantly turn on some lightbulbs.
Good luck!

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Bumperoonie!

matt*strike

iTrader: (41)

Has anyone used the tuning haus chassis?