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Old 04-17-2005, 12:38 PM   #1
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Default Equalizer trays

What's the difference between all the trays, if it equalizes it equalizes right? I have a cheap $20 indi activator.

http://www.zonecentral.org/products/...activatorx.jpg
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:56 PM   #2
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different discharge rates, different cut off voltage....
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:18 PM   #3
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but what about the quality of the equalizing?
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:21 PM   #4
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well some have auto cutoff...others haven't.

some will be better made, using better components etc.
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:42 PM   #5
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its a personal preference. some people dont like to dead short their packs, so the integy zero thirty although it has 30 amps discharge rate, is a no no. i like something convenient so i bought a novak smart tray. u can choose the cut off voltage and it automatically shuts down when reached, that means u dont have to sit there and watch ur packs all day. so far there is no perfect discharger for me. i like the integy 30 amp discharge rate and the selecatable cutoff of smart tray. cough hint cough hint cough integy cough novak cough..... hear me!
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:36 AM   #6
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The main choise, is whichever you want auto cut off or going all the way down to zero.

Within the auto cut off types, theres a lot of differences in how effective the indicator ligths is, and some shut off by a sudden, and others do it slowly. And some dont cut off all the cells at the same point...

For both types, some are a lot easier to use than others and finally, price versus value matter.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:35 PM   #7
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does my tray cut down to zero?
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:36 PM   #8
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i heard integy trays are meant to cut-down to zero?
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:37 AM   #9
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They do if you leave them long enough
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:48 AM   #10
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Default Info from fusion website

Discharge trays.

In order to answer this question we must first explore the type if discharge trays that are currently in use. Currently there are two major types. The first we will call a diode tray.
This type of tray will use a diode to cut off the discharge current when the voltage does not meet the level required to keep the diode forward biased ( turned on ). On most diode trays this will be anywhere from 0.5v to 0.9v per cell. The material that the diode is made from will determine how much voltage is required to keep it turned on. In general Silicon diodes are about 0.7v and Germanium diodes are about 0.3v. The way to identify which
type is to look at them. Most Silicon diodes are black and have a silver stripe at one end versus a Germanium type looking like clear glass with a wire inside. The other type of discharge tray in use is the pure resistor type. These type of trays will discharge your battery continuously until they are completely dead if left unattended. Now that you know what the two major type if tray are lets explore their uses. First and foremost almost every discharge tray is considered an equalizing device. That means
that if you tray your batteries they should all arrive at the same point in the discharge curve when they are complete. This means that when you charge your batteries all of the cells should arrive at the peak almost at the same time. This is good. This means that you should not get a weak cell that will become reversed by the others discharging through it while you are running. If you tray your batteries to 0.9v per cell regularly you will see that
the runtime should start to stabilize and the voltage start to go up some. This is the method I would use for runtime critical disciplines. ( modified and 12th scale) If you are not
looking so much for runtime as performance than you could use a resistor type tray to deep discharge your batteries. Here is where you need to be careful. Deep discharging of your cells will cause a trade off to occur. In general terms deep discharging will get the
voltage to come up significantly but it will cost you runtime. This trade off is anywhere from 15-60 seconds. We have seen batteries that have gone up almost .015 per cell.
Our race team uses the deep discharge method for stock racing and the .9v method for everything else.
When to tray your batteries is also important. NiMh batteries like to have all of their maintenance done just before they are needed. This means that just before you are ready to run your batteries is the best time to discharge them on your tray until that process is complete. Once that is done start to charge your batteries as normal.
7. Thoughts on dead shorting your batteries.
We do not dead short any of our batteries. This can be a dangerous process if you don't know what you are doing. It can lead to venting and or exploding cells.

A snippet from Fusion Batteries.

Interesting reading I thought.
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:57 AM   #11
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I think there's another point that is very important to the likes of myself and 99.9% of RC racers.

We buy our cells and can't afford to change them frequently. Dead shorting, whilst improving the voltage, does so temporarily only. Your battery life is shortened.

So if you want your cells to last at least a season, forget dead shorting.

I use the Novak tray. If I want to get the voltages right down this will do it, but I don't see the necessity, so 0.9 is fine for me.
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Old 04-19-2005, 07:30 AM   #12
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A couple of years ago, I bought a rayspeed discharge tray. I liked the concept of it and the way it looked. It has Ni-cd and a Ni-mh setting. Along with that is a equalizing and a conditioning mode. Then I heard that if you bring down your cells to zero volts slowly, you can increase your runtime and voltage and decrease your IR numbers too (from what I heard). I started doing that with a few new sets of batteries. I have noticed that I never charge less that 4000 mah's and my runtime has stayed the same with a few seconds lost off the labels.

Now I do bring my cells down to .9 for my touring car racing. So I use the rayspeed tray for that and it seems to be fine. The only thing is that the charge mah's are only 3000 to 3300 mah's on charge which makes me think that there is no way that I'm getting that runtime that I had.

I have been trying the zero volts tray thing for a about 5 or 6 race days and so far it's been good. This is for 12th mod racing where runtime is a must. I have those integy 6s trays and I start traying my cells about 3 hours before I start charging my packs at the track and like I said above, I charge my cells to 4000 to 4200 mah's every weekend.
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
I think there's another point that is very important to the likes of myself and 99.9% of RC racers.

We buy our cells and can't afford to change them frequently. Dead shorting, whilst improving the voltage, does so temporarily only. Your battery life is shortened.

So if you want your cells to last at least a season, forget dead shorting.

I use the Novak tray. If I want to get the voltages right down this will do it, but I don't see the necessity, so 0.9 is fine for me.

buddy on mine deadshort all his packs and still cant keep up with me . good driving skills first then do all those nasty stuffs for more speeds.
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Old 04-19-2005, 05:48 PM   #14
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I'm interested to know........

How much shorter will battery life be when a indi zero30 discharger is used.??
How often should it be used??

( I have just brought one myself and now i'm not sure if using it is a good idea).
Maybe someone out there got the answers................????
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:15 PM   #15
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so bottom line for stock?

zero:

or

0.9:
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