fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

For the front axles you should really use the Tamiya double-cardan axles with the optional 42mm dogbones installed. They rotate smoother than any CVD axle can.

Scorpio_Jay

Interesting, do you know the part numbers for those by chance? Know ive read it in the thread somewhere within the 100 pages haha. Not sure I really need it just for bashing though just didnt want to keep loosing the standard dog bones. Cheers

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

The parts for the front DCJs are as follows:
42239 42mm DCJ Swing Shafts
42218 DCJ Wheel Axles
42219 DCJ Joint Housings
42221 DCJ Joints

Papi

​​​​​​Yes, but they are also less durable, and I think that for bashing CVDs are ok

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

I agree that for bashing the CVDs would be fine, but for an XV01 in rally mode the ride height puts the driveshafts at a larger angle and this may create a lot of chatter during steering.

And Tamiya DCJs are probably the strongest ones out there, I have them on my Yokomo BD

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

They aren't less durable. They're made of the same hardened steel as Tamiya's single-cardan CVDs. I've been using their double-cardan axles in my XV-01s for years and they barely even show any wear.

I like them enough that I had some hubs specially modified for my DF-03Ra cars, so I could use double-cardan axles on them as well.

Scorpio_Jay

Thanks for the input guys. Just ordered the normal tamiya CVDs as really just after the durability and they're less parts to order.

I think it is cause I have the ride height right up the extreme angle made the cheap alloy ones shear straight off.

Anyway cheers! This thread has helped so much with the build.

jrewing

Dang! I just installed cvd's all around 😀

I just bought a used xv-01 and am in the process of upgrading /fixing it. I loved how it ran with just a stock brushed motor. So quiet! And sliding through corners like a real rally car.

I have installed a little more powerful brushed motor. I am old school, I started with a Hornet in the eighties, and I still think esc's and nimh batteries are awesome!

jrewing

I ran it with a Tamiya brushed sport tuned today. It was faster😁 I think the acceleration was decent, but top speed was too low. I might go brushless one day... I am a complete noob about brushless, but it seems one great advantage about it is the braking ability?

ejtnt

You can also have brakes with a brushed setup, and even more sophisticated braking (adjustable drag brake, ABS etc.) Depending on the ESC. Fyrstormer runs most of his XV-01s brushed. Me too. There are some fairly sophisticated brushed ESCs that are waterproof and quite on the cheap e.g. the Hobbywing QuicRun WP 1060 Brushed.

The biggest advantage of a brushless setup is the lower maintenance (no need to replace brushes) and the smoother performance, even though that depends a lot on the brand, the esc and if the motor is sensored or sensorless.

That said, it sounds like you are enjoying your car and that is what matters.

jrewing

Wow! Thanks, that is VERY interesting :-)

I took apart the front gearbox yesterday, which was good, because a lot of the screws were loose. A lot of sand had gotten into the spur and pinion gear, I think I need to replace them. I want to try out some different gear ratios anyway.

ejtnt

How did sand get there in the first place? Where I run my car the ground is quite sandy and my spur and pinion are quite clean. Do you have the cover on? Could it be that you have applied a little too much grease on those gears? Sometimes it is better to apply minimal amounts of lubrication, since grease tends to attract all sorts of debris that eventually builds up to a disgusting gunk.

Moreover if you are running mostly offroad, seriously consider using the slipper clutch setup. It helps a lot with the durability of the gears and since you want to experiment with gearing maybe it will be worth a shot. The spur in the slipper clutch 77 teeth that will actually bring down your gearing considerably. You would have to get a 25t pinion to match the stock XV-01 gear if you use the slipper clutch. Also you can go only up to 29t on the pinion with the slipper clutch, giving you an FDR of around 6.9, which a bit on the low side.

Fyrstormer has put together some different slipper clutch setups using associated and traxxas parts, using smaller spurs in order to achieve lower FDRs, so be sure to check his builds. They are very informative and quite inspiring!

jrewing

The screws holding the cover were loose! That is why the sand came in. I have tightened them now :-)

I want a slipper clutch, yes. Thanks for the heads up on the low gearing.

But first of all I have to extend the wires from the motor. Why is it so hard to find the type of (bullet) connector or extensions which are on the stock brushed motor? I have to solder on XT60īs or something.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

The HobbyWing WP1080 is a great ESC. I'm slowly replacing all my other 2S/3S brushed ESCs with it.

jrewing

Looks good, does it have long wires for the motor?

Other news: I ran it with a 23T pinion and a Tamiya Sports Tuned. Ran great, felt harder to control, but that is a consequence of speed I guess :-) It started pulling to the left, and I went home to Google the issue since I didnīt immediately see the problem. I worried about toe in and weight balance. I figured that by using a scale, to find the weight under each wheel I could see how balanced it was. And then I noticed the small stones that had lodged themselves under the rear arms, pushing them up. That was the problem. I wonder if this is a common issue?

I finally soldered longer wires onto the motor (I really need a better soldering iron, my gas powered one was hard to work with), I also velcroed my heavy NiMh batteries to the battery lid, so they wouldnīt bang around in there.