R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree19Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-07-2016, 12:50 AM   #1051
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default

Thanks for all the explanation.

I am very tempted, but I shall hold off until some time in the future. Maybe after I pay off my property tax, and hope for some sort of windfall. Money on a whole set of suspension parts seems to be superfluous since I have my car pretty dialed right now. I wouldn't want to mess up a good thing. I will look for a used tb04 or something to play TC with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Papi View Post
1. Stock hinge pins won't work, as they're shorter. You need 46mm hinge pins for reversible suspension arms.

2. If you use 1A suspension mounts, yes. (that'ts setting of XV-01TC) If you already have 42mm, you can use 1XD mounts, which are narrower. Also if you have stock XV, you can use front wheel axle and 42mm dogbones.. Personally I prefer dogbones on rear axle, as they don't rattle that much at higher suspension

3. Tamiya site says, that standard XV01 swaybars don't work with TC. I can't say, I don't have them

4. once I get home, I can make photo of my TB03 with suspension modded for 25-30mm. Basicaly you need to get rid of downstops (bad, if you want to ride tarmac afterwards) and you need to make space for C-hub inside of front arm.

5. Tamiya's suspension mounts are in line, differed by letters, from 1XD (narrowest) through 1X, 1A (middle) to 1F (widest). One letter apart means 0,5 difference in rear toe. So for 3 you will need for example 1XB front and 1D rear.
Separate suspension blocks serve as 2 blocks at once, when you flip them you'll get same block with X (A-XA, B-XB etc). I hope I described it well

6. I hope it's all, but I forget about hingepins, so I might be wrong

Now you can hate me even more

When I think about it 70$ is still pretty expensive, I never thought that conversion costs so much
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2016, 10:27 PM   #1052
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default Camber Links

Today I decided to try changing a single camber link setting to see what would happen to the car's handling.

Below is an image of part of the rear bulhead where the inner ballend camber links attach, located at tge base of the shock tower. I've added a 2mm spacer (image shows spacer on the left side) to raise the inner link. I did this for both ball ends. From what I have read, raising inner links lowers the roll center.



What does it mean for driving? After the switch I noticed that the cars rear end is A LOT more soap bubbles wishy washy. Like water park happy fun slide to side. Like go to the wet market and get some slippery fish tails.

I could go on, but I ended up changing it right back to the original setting. It was basically like rear end drifting.

Today's lesson is, setting your inner rear camber links higher will make the cars rear end feel very loose and oversteer.

Yes just 2mm did that.

Can anyone confirm that I am not insane? Bad question, let me ask another way. Can any one confirm this observation to be truthy?
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2016, 10:44 PM   #1053
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default Do not read if you have a weak stomach

So not the best news. But I have to tell someone because my wife didn't want to hear it.

I was driving my rc after switching back to stock rear end link height position. Up and down the street like I usually do. On my street there is a man hole cover which sometimes if it hit it right, I can jump my car a couple of inches.

Today I went over that manhole cover, and my car did a full front flip, I wondered why. I went closer and found that there was a dead squirrel squashed right before the manhole. I had run over the squirrel and flipped my car. Upon even closer inspection, I noticed lots of guts. Blegh yuck. To be clear I didn't kill it, a real car had earlier in the day/night.

I drove my car back into my work area. Flipped my car over, and there was blood and bits of guts stuck in the suspension and cutouts. It was like I grated the squirrel. I was gagging the whole time I was cleaning my car with alcohol and wipes. Pretty yuk. I didn't feel like driving after that.

I hope the squirrel is in a better place now.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2016, 02:56 PM   #1054
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 436
Default

Haha. You got the Colin McRae spirit, never lift.
MatsNorway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2016, 11:58 PM   #1055
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsNorway View Post
Haha. You got the Colin McRae spirit, never lift.
Haha thanks, I guess 😎
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2016, 12:05 AM   #1056
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default



I don't know why I like this car so much. Maybe it's because I don't have any others.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2016, 08:19 AM   #1057
Tech Elite
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 2,201
Default

Ewwwww...

Nice car though. It's a good car to like. I started with minis and that's definitely a love/hate arrangement.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2016, 05:16 PM   #1058
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default



So on the weekends I've started bringing my car out with me in the trunk, because you never know when you are going to come across a freshly paved lot like this one!

OMG. So amazing. All out turbo. Of course I can't hit top speed, but I can make nice wide turns, while flooring it. The pavement was so fresh and so clean. Virtually no dust. I had so much traction, that I could almost hear the tires peeling off the rims. Good thing I didn't traction roll.

The rear wheel "one way" setup is pretty awesome except for braking. You cannot turn and brake at the same time, it just plows straight even with the USGT spec Ride tires.

Beside the braking, turning off power is great, especially on this clean grippy tarmac. I had too much fun. No obstacles or obstructions to smash into.

The tires were very warm after a 10 minute drive of all out blasting around corners.

Love it! It's a great day.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 12:37 AM   #1059
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default



I had been keeping a set of tires that were on the verge of dying in hopes of some how repairing them with bicycle tubes and vulcanising fluid. But alas, I was sick of looking at them and went ahead and dumped the rest of my pack on a hardcore session of tire shredding fun.

These are the set of tires that I had back when I was in Palm Springs. Now they are no more 🤣
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 07:35 PM   #1060
Tech Elite
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 2,201
Default

Where's the body? If you're going to do speed runs, you need some downforce.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 01:04 AM   #1061
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
Where's the body? If you're going to do speed runs, you need some downforce.
Funny you should mention that. I think my sti hatchback body is actually lifting the front end of my car up. I left a lot of lexan on the rear end so I could simulate a lip kit. That might be creating some weird turbulence, or drag. Is that the parachute effect? I think my car goes faster without a body. Is that possible?

The BMW sedan body is pretty off center. I might glue some lexan into the holes and re-drill proper holes. Would that work?

I was also thinking about making some canards for extra front downforce. Has anyone done that before?

Speed runs wouldn't have worked on that open lot it was too short, I checked my max rpm with the hobby wing program box and it was sub 35k for that run. On my street I can get close to 48k. Wide open (not on the ground) the motor and ESC are capable of doing 60k+. The upper limit isn't known yet since I am hesitant to add too much can and esc timing as well as turbi. The tires would probably rip off.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 03:58 AM   #1062
Tech Elite
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 2,201
Default

It's certainly possible for the car to go faster without a body, because it has less frontal surface area that needs to push air out of the way. It will be a lot harder to control, though.

Does the STI body have a spoiler? HPI makes several bolt-on nylon touring car spoilers that can be used to keep the car securely on the ground. I use Lexan high-downforce spoilers on my touring car bodies when the bodies come with them, but when they don't I use one of HPI's nylon spoilers. They have angle shims that you can use to control how much downforce you get, so you don't waste more power than necessary keeping the car on the ground.

I have an RS4 that I've built as a speed-run car; at present it can do 61mph. With a Dodge Viper body and a high-downforce spoiler attached, you can see it hunker-down as it speeds up, because it stops dancing around.



You might want to camp eBay for a set of HPI belted X-Pattern tires (part 4495) like I did, or else get a set of foam tires, to use for speed runs. That will prevent ballooning and tearing the tires off the rims. Just don't do a lot of powersliding with them, because the belted X-Patterns are discontinued and you wouldn't want to waste them.

Depending on how off-center the BMW body is, it might be easier to just heat-up the body posts with a cigarette lighter and bend them slightly to compensate for the off-center-ness of the holes in the body.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 10-11-2016 at 05:43 AM.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 08:51 AM   #1063
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default

Wow you got your rs4 wheels hella flush. Nice paint job. I like the low-low. Super aero. Do you scrape?

I'll look into making the BMW sedan body more fitting, now that my suspension is set up pretty well.

The Subaru hatchback body has a crazy molded plastic wing with a ridiculous amount of curve. Which ends almost vertical. It looks awesome and definitely has downforce, to the point of drag. Which makes me wonder if that's another reason my front end is lifting. Ill try removing it. I remember one previous poster was saying that wing was too much. I also might cut the back down a little to let air pass under better. Or I could add some canards to the front wheels. Yeah!


Foams you say. Good idea, for speed runs only. I actually had a set of hpi 1/12 scale foams on my old rc10 that I loved. Little tiny wheels they were. I chunked them pretty hard, but I think they lasted quite a long time. Those were rear only, so maybe thats why they lasted.

The chassis roll is pretty evident.

I will start messing with the body and aerooooo. With all the downforce this car is about to get, that means more suspension fiddling. My favorite! 🔧

"Luke, use the Downforce ..."















Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
It's certainly possible for the car to go faster without a body, because it has less frontal surface area that needs to push air out of the way. It will be a lot harder to control, though.

Does the STI body have a spoiler? HPI makes several bolt-on nylon touring car spoilers that can be used to keep the car securely on the ground. I use Lexan high-downforce spoilers on my touring car bodies when the bodies come with them, but when they don't I use one of HPI's nylon spoilers. They have angle shims that you can use to control how much downforce you get, so you don't waste more power than necessary keeping the car on the ground.

I have an RS4 that I've built as a speed-run car; at present it can do 61mph. With a Dodge Viper body and a high-downforce spoiler attached, you can see it hunker-down as it speeds up, because it stops dancing around.



You might want to camp eBay for a set of HPI belted X-Pattern tires (part 4495) like I did, or else get a set of foam tires, to use for speed runs. That will prevent ballooning and tearing the tires off the rims. Just don't do a lot of powersliding with them, because the belted X-Patterns are discontinued and you wouldn't want to waste them.

Depending on how off-center the BMW body is, it might be easier to just heat-up the body posts with a cigarette lighter and bend them slightly to compensate for the off-center-ness of the holes in the body.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 11:51 AM   #1064
Tech Elite
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 2,201
Default

Thanks, I'm quite pleased with how that body came out. As I recall the front wheels are 0mm or +1mm offset, and the rear wheels are +3mm offset. That's what it looks like in "track stance"; when I'm running it on unswept pavement I raise it a notch by moving the lower shock pivots inward on the A-arms. I only run it on the smoothest pavement I can find, so no scraping yet.

Those high-downforce spoilers that end with a small vertical lip don't actually produce as much drag as you'd think, because the concave surface of the spoiler accumulates a bubble of slightly-compressed air that it carries along with it, and the wind flows pretty smoothly over the upper surface of that compressed-air bubble. Same as what happens to air in the bed of a pickup truck.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2016, 12:10 AM   #1065
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 498
Default



As per fyrstormer's suggestion for a nice quality servo saver, I picked up MST alloy servo saver in anodized purple. It has like 6-8 mounting positions. I am using the medium strength ring spring. It is a solid, nicely machined, premium quality servo saver for around $23-25.

Side question, what is everyones wiring situation like? I've got three heavy duty 12-gauge wires, and an equally thick sensor wire running from the very rear of my car to the front. I'd say those wires coupled with the equally long battery wires actually make for more weight than the receiver and servo. If anyone has some pictures of their xv-01 wiring setup, it would be nice to compare. I think Tamiya was like, yeah design an awesome chassis and then let the customer figure out the wiring later.
4roller is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
::: Tamiya XV-01 PRO Rally 1/10 Review!!! ::: iluvm4 Electric Off-Road 17 05-04-2017 10:37 AM
Tamiya Xv-01 new Rally Kit releases in July rcmart rcMart.com Mega Online R/C Marketplace 17 01-04-2013 02:54 PM
Electronics for Tamiya xv 01 highbeam Radio and Electronics 10 12-23-2012 08:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
LJH
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:34 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net