BlackKat

Basically,

Whats better for rubber tire carpet? Pro 4 or TC4 (heck...add the Brokomo)

More people at the track have the TC4 (I'd be the only regular with the Pro 4 if I got one)

Parts support for all 3 is good.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I'm partial to the Yokomo CGM -JB

ChadCapece

I have owned, racing, wrenched, built, and rebuilt both cars. All those Pro 4 owners needed to do was call HPI and HPI will send V1.1 gears and aluminium backplate. Problem solved.

2 screws and the Yok diff is out. 12 screws and the Pro4 diff is out. But it takes WAY more time to get to the bevel gear than it does on the pro4. I also don't like the Yoko shocks after having the Pro4 shocks.

I feel that the Yoko is a better car for 19 turn and mod. And the Pro 4 is a better car for stock. The Pro 4 will be better for beginners b/c it is more durable than a Yokomo. Unless you spend the $60 and make it full graphite parts.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

dan.. sent you PM bro.

ah_liang

Spinning freely is important but it is equally critical when using a front oneway that both front wheels actually stops at the same time when free spinning.

lickrim

you guys break a lot of stuff out there, you cant judge a car by how fast you can get the diffs out, there are two different shaft's rotating in oppisite directions that in turn make the chassis want to wrap and flex.big load on the shaft even bigger load on the moter side, no advantage for shafts you will always give up something .................handling.....traction......positi ons.......

edseb

You see what I mean? Ask people andd you get personal preferences. They all are capable, but if you are looking at costs, Pro4 and TC4. The parts are readily available (check your area) and parts in general are cheaper.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

When you put up a post like that what do you expect?


Like edsed said, part availabilty should be your main priority, esp if your just getting into tc.

Turtlemaster

oops double post

Turtlemaster

i for one don't see the problem with the bevel gears in the yok, or the spur. lets see, two screws at back of case, pull out diff, push drive cup pin out, loosen set screw, push out another pin, and push out bevel gear, as for as spacing, i just follow the directions, as for as the orginal question, without question the best shaft car out of the box without hop ups is the yok sdw. i've ran it on carpet with box set up and won in stock on rubber tires, i've ran it on a dusty track in mod and won with kit set up and i've ran it on a very large open flowing track and got third in mod, with a almost kit setup, (stood the shocks up one hole) very close race, top three within 2 seconds, 1st to 3rd. AND i've crashed the crap outta it also, ever turn in about a foot to soon on a 2x4.... it didn't break. PRO 4 out in this neck of the woods, like jaybee said, almost everyone that got one, sold it. now that being said, i also know of some kick ass tc4's two of them beat me in the mod race. one was basically stock. i will also say this, not all, but a majority of the "hop ups" that people buy aren't needed. a decent set up and good set of tires will do most times. oh and instead of buying 60 bucks worth of graphite, just buy a 10 dollar wide front bumper.
and if you don't like this advise, go with "bergers" his was probably the best responce besides the 1st on posted.

sorry to disagree with my HV and GQ team mates

ChadCapece

No harm, no foul

It might be my personal preference, but I just like to have a stiff chassis and graphite parts. So then I can run softer springs. That's where the $60 comes from.

muahaha

Sorry to butt in, but after some reading i cant help but to put some of my opinion on these car.

Pro4 is no doubt in my opinion the best set up car right out of the box. Car is solid but that about all. The biggest let down for me on this car is during setup, it's the hardest car to work on.

Tc4 have great potentials (Need That FT kit out). A very neutral and balance car, like it's predecessor. But like it's predecessors, the diff is still a major problem when running a mod, as the ring plate will wear the diff cup out if it's not adjust properly or it's too loose.

Yokomo SD would probably be the most confusing one of all with so many chassis to play with. CGM is recomended for carpet racing and track that have high bite, (if u want graphite, this car is loaded with them). It also requires the most prep time out of all 3 (just a minor annoyance) and some hop up to keep it consistently quick. Out of the box, the first things i would get for this car is the bumper (get the wide one). however i much prefer to use either a rayspeed chassis or a black lower deck and a silver top deck or better yet the SDW kit. An excellent car for the 19t class. Easiest car to work on too (my opinion).

All 3 car is good. If built and prep properly, all 3 car can be just as smooth and handle just as well. Durability of all 3 car is bout the same (just depend on where and how u drive the car). It all depend on which car appeals most to the buyers.

For me, the yoke got my vote. For some unexplainable reason, i always manage to find a setup for this car where ever i race at within a short amount of time (thou it wont be the best setup, but it'll keep me competitive enough). And with so many chassis setup to play with, heck what else can i say.

edseb

One thing to consider. HPI (hot bodies) and Yokomo are coming out with belt cars, and their top level drivers (Hara, Surikarn, and Hirosaka) prefer the belt. Food for thought. Also with the Yok, ther always seems to be a newer version coming out that is a big change. The Yokomo SD came out in ssg and black graphite with different characteristics, then the CGM, then the limited worlds edition. Then you have the Rayspeed versions, etc., making the car perform at it's potential very hard, good or bad. Instead the AE TC3 was refined for years and had a big part of competition during those years. Only after it was proven and ran it's long cycle, did it change to the TC4 which many feel is only another refinement. Something to consider when you think long term. Do you want your next purchase to be an obsolete car in a relatively short time with only expensive mods to make it run it's best? Sure some of the older versions are very competitive, but why would they have made radical changes, if they weren't thought to be better? I know different conditions require different set ups and different handling, but those are huge, expensive commitments.

V12

iTrader: (1)

From the shaft cars I have or know of the Tamiya EVOīs maybe are the easiest to be fast with. I have an EVO3 since nearly 2 years and was competetive right of the box. I won the first race I attended and this was without any modifications. Later I upgraded with parts from the Surikarn Edition and Square and Jürgen oneway and this is until now. Nowadays other cars may have a more free drivetrain as the PRO4 and the SDīs but this isnīt everything to me. Until now the EVO3 was the only car which never let me down beside my XXX-S but this is belt. From what I found the Tamiya cars in general seem to be fast on every track you attend. Maybe not the fastest overall if you didnīt find the perfect setup but I yet have to find a track where it doesnīt work. This is the same with the 415 I used for indoor now.

The Pro4 also is a very fast car out of the box with a more free drivetrain than the EVO3 but itīs much harder to setup. I know some people switching to the Pro4 who had problems on some tracks were they were much faster with their EVO3 before. It seems the Pro4 in general is more an asphalt than a carpet car at least for the non-factory drivers.

Before the EVO3 I used a TC3 which I still have but I have to say I rarely was as pleased as with the Tamiya cars or the XXX-S. On some tracks outdoors it was really fast but I had problems with setup indoors more than once. Maybe this car was not perfect for my drivingstyle especially as I didnīt got the oneway working for my liking on most tracks. With the XXX-S and the Tamiyas I usually always are using a oneway. Another problem was the quality of parts. Especially the drivetrain was too much work for being free. But maybe it really was not my car as you did find a lot of TC3īs here.
Regarding the TC4 I have to say this has changed much. A lot of drivers have tried one but most went to another brand afterwards or went back to their TC3. Most say they canīt get the TC4 to work properly. Even a factory driver here who tried all the time went for a Yok BD now.
On the Yok SDīs I canīt say too much. I just know most drivers werenīt very fast with this or had problems with parts breaking in the beginning and were much more pleased with a Tamiya or Pro4 afterwards. The SDW seemes working much better now but most people here prefere a belt car more currently.

thecrow2k

Is the EVO III Surikarn any good, ill be picking mine up fromn a clubb member on wednesday, can it compete and is there anything that would do with a hop-up