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Old 04-14-2005, 03:33 PM   #31
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PRO4
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Old 04-14-2005, 08:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
So the Pro4 isn't a beginners car because you have to work ont he gear mesh of the diffs...but the FT TC3 is, because all it needs is the have the chassis milled, shock towers reinforced and drivetrain fully blueprinted????

If you get the TC4, you save a little of the headache of modding it..but you still need to massage the diff cases to free it up....and then there's the added expense of slapping the Carbon kit on the car, getting the aluminum suspension mounts, Ti turnbuckles, etc..the bargain TC4 is no longer such a bargain...

Most shops have access to parts for the Pro4, as it is carried by several major distributors. Yokomo is trickier as the distributors don't carry all of the parts all the time (but you CAN order direct from YokomoUSA and their service is fantastic)

Why the hangup on shaft though? Don't ignore the belt cars..there's a reason everyone is making one.
TC4 baby.
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Old 04-15-2005, 08:24 AM   #33
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So far I think the Yok is the best shaftie I have owned. After the updated arms, I haven't had any issue with breakage and the drivetrain is pretty free.
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Old 04-15-2005, 09:08 AM   #34
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I've had the TC3, 'Cuda R2 Web Edition, SD and the Pro4...
by far the best handling and fastest out the box is the Pro4. very easy to work on.
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Old 04-15-2005, 09:40 AM   #35
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Out of the Yokomo SD Series, the SDW is by far the best one. And just to clarify, the Pro4 IS NOT easier to work on than any of the SD cars. -JB
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Old 04-15-2005, 10:01 AM   #36
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The SD is bar far the easiest car to work on, i am not saying that because i have one, i have worked on pro4s and tamiyas and the SD is far easier. The spur gear and diff removal is also far superior
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Old 04-15-2005, 10:02 AM   #37
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Yokomo SD CGM.... No tweaking here....
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Old 04-15-2005, 10:10 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Did somebody say "FISH" ... I"m a firm beliver that the Cuda has what it takes to be up there with any of the cars that are out today..... but it just needs a little better support...I.E. US drivers... ....

but then again ALEX is coming out with a new car soon.. that will not be a Cuda
-Dave
Hmm. Does that mean ALEX is going belt?
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Old 04-15-2005, 12:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally posted by brad shearer
For foam the pro4 sucks-I have tried it.The tc4 is good for foam.And for rubber the tc4 is better in the tight turns,the pro4 is better on a open track.I just got rid of a pro4 and got a tc4
The Pro 4 must suck on Foams, It finished 2nd in Mod at Cleveland in 2003, and in 2004 it was third in stock and won Masters. Cleveland's not a carpet race though is it?

By the way, The guy who finished third in stock only had the car for two weeks before the Champs. Anybody care to guess where the highest finishing TC4, SD, Barracuda, or Tamiya Evo finished at the Champs last year?

If you wanna go AE, you might as well get a FTTC3 and spend the hours and $$ necessary to turn it into a modern car. I have yet to see a decent TC4 on foams that didn't belong to an AE Factory Driver.

Enough said.......
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Old 04-15-2005, 12:48 PM   #40
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Hey, I'm looking for a good shaft driven TC for rubber tire carpet and a bit of foam carpet. It'd be cool if its okay for outdoor but parking lots are no priority for me. I don't mind if I have to buy a few factory hop-ups to make it better

Thanks
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Old 04-15-2005, 12:53 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Out of the Yokomo SD Series, the SDW is by far the best one. And just to clarify, the Pro4 IS NOT easier to work on than any of the SD cars. -JB
Actually it is. The Yok takes more time to adjust bevel gears, remove axles, and build the shocks. Pro4 is the easiest to build diffs, shocks, and tranny. I've found the Yoko to be the fastest overall car. But it seems that this thread is only concerning the car as it comes from the box w/o the modifications.
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:29 PM   #42
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This is funny...everyone talking about how "free" the drivetrains are.

The simple fact of the matter is that if it will turn smoothly and spin for a few seconds with the wheels on, then thats all you need. The rest is just for bench-racing types to brag about to their buddies.


And about the TC4. Just wait until AE releases the FT-TC4.

Then everyone will be jumping on the AE bandwagon once again, eating crow for all the smack they talked about the unloved TC4.

At my track, the Xray guys usually are middle pack. The types who think carbon this and aluminum that will make them a better driver.

The usual top cars are a BMI TC3, a nearly stock TC4 and a couple Yoke SDs.

I have a TC4, however I haven't run it once. I race 12th scale now. Touring simply became passe'.
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Old 04-15-2005, 02:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
This is funny...everyone talking about how "free" the drivetrains are.

The simple fact of the matter is that if it will turn smoothly and spin for a few seconds with the wheels on, then thats all you need. The rest is just for bench-racing types to brag about to their buddies.
Actually, Even in Touring car, every bit counts. Out of Two cars that are identical aside from drivetrain friction, with the same driver, the freer car will turn slightly faster laps. May only be marginal, but I'll tell ya right now, Barry and Blackstocks drivetrains will spin far freer than ANY stock TC4. Ya think they do all that for fun of it?
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Old 04-15-2005, 04:36 PM   #44
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You mean my complete blue R2 and complete blue evo doesnt make me faster! I even anodised my thumbs! I have about 5-7 seconds spin out of my R2, the bearings are past their best now and about 10 seconds from the evo.

As long as you can spin it over and its not binding im sure it wont make any difference at just about any level apart from worlds. One wide corner or offroad trip and your work is lost, along with those super high voltage cells and super HP motor.

Buy the car with the best local support and the more top guys you see racing it the better, go have a chat to them at the track and ask what they have to say about it. Their help will make you quicker than anything you can buy.
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Old 04-15-2005, 05:10 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
Actually it is. The Yok takes more time to adjust bevel gears, remove axles, and build the shocks. Pro4 is the easiest to build diffs, shocks, and tranny. I've found the Yoko to be the fastest overall car. But it seems that this thread is only concerning the car as it comes from the box w/o the modifications.
Actually it's not. I've heard the complaints of several Pro4 drivers first hand about how many screws it takes just to fix a stripped bevel gear. On my yokes, to adjust everything you just mentioned, it takes me 13-n-some minutes to do ALL of that (I've timed it). Now I'm not gonna sit here and argue adjustment times, all I know is that quite-a-few Pro4 owners I know--HAVE GOTTEN RID OF 'EM. -JB
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