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Old 04-22-2005, 08:46 AM   #76
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Here is my CRC 3.1.
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:28 AM   #77
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Default Servo Mounting - Old Skool front end

TryHard,

You will definitely want to run the servo flat w/ this front end. Servo tape is not strong enough to hold the servo in without "walking". Use solid mounts made for running the servo flat (I believe Trinity, RPM, & a few others make them), or use "shoe goo" adhesive to attach it directly to the chassis.

Damper tubes will be more consistent (side-to-side) mounted directly in-line w/ each other also (no angle).

Good Luck & Have Fun! 1/12th scale is the best!

-Jason M.
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:54 AM   #78
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Default Re: Servo Mounting - Old Skool front end

Quote:
Originally posted by muchomadness
TryHard,

You will definitely want to run the servo flat w/ this front end. Servo tape is not strong enough to hold the servo in without "walking". Use solid mounts made for running the servo flat (I believe Trinity, RPM, & a few others make them), or use "shoe goo" adhesive to attach it directly to the chassis.

Damper tubes will be more consistent (side-to-side) mounted directly in-line w/ each other also (no angle).

Good Luck & Have Fun! 1/12th scale is the best!

-Jason M.
Is it even possible to mount the tubes to the body post location? That would shorten the tube and it's pretty short as it is.
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Old 04-22-2005, 04:52 PM   #79
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jag - No I switched from, tubes to disks and then to shocks. I still have the shocks on my car and they will be staying there. I doubt I'll be running the tubes again. It just handles better with the shocks or disks.
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:10 PM   #80
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I've tried tubes before but not shocks. However I find discs the most trouble free since I do not have to worry about balancing the effect of both shocks/tubes. Discs, however do not offer as much fine tuning as shocks/tubes.
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:40 PM   #81
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here's a pic of my hara car ...
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:41 PM   #82
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sorry, here's the link ...
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:01 PM   #83
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Default Re: Re: Servo Mounting - Old Skool front end

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Is it even possible to mount the tubes to the body post location? That would shorten the tube and it's pretty short as it is.
Thats my thinking too, had a look at it, and it would be impossible to mount them straight. They would be way to short to operate properly. You'd have to cut a fair amount off the alu tube to get it to work, and I couldn't be sure that the plastic inner wouldn't "bottom out".

I think they are angled becuse it would supply some additional damping when the pod is compressed.

With regards to the servo.... I've now mounted it flat... admitadly with servo tape. I did attempt to drill some new holes in the CRC mounts to get it sitting flat...but the block front end got in the way of mouting it too the chassis properly.

Quick Pic


I've been trying the car out in the corrider (not the best method maybe), and it now steers straighter than before.. with good centreing (put a kimborough servo saver on, much better). All i need to do now is put the car on the track and see how she goes!

I'll look into the flat servo mounts (as stated before, I'm loathe to use tape/shoe goo), although I doubt I'll actually need them, as next month I'll probably be getting hold of the AE front end anyway (at the very least as an additional tuning aid)

Later
Ed
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:26 AM   #84
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My first show & tell on RCtech.
it's an AH12.
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:30 AM   #85
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Nice choice of batteries and ESC
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Old 04-23-2005, 12:03 PM   #86
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Default Re: Servo Mounting - Old Skool front end

Quote:
Originally posted by muchomadness
TryHard,

Damper tubes will be more consistent (side-to-side) mounted directly in-line w/ each other also (no angle).

Good Luck & Have Fun! 1/12th scale is the best!

-Jason M.
I'm not sure if they are more consistent when mounted in line. Regardless of the initial angle of the tubes they will never remain perpendicular through fore and aft suspension movement. If the tubes are swept back, the plungers are pulled out of the tubes during forward pod travel, reducing dampening. If they are swept forward, they are pushed deeper into the tubes , increasing dampening. Perpendicular tubes will react like rearward swept tubes, but at a lesser extreme, of course. Each configuration affects handling differently during hard cornering.
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Old 04-23-2005, 04:20 PM   #87
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Cypress, thats what I'm thinking... but I'd be pretty sure the damping remains the same on both compression and extension.

Ie it would increse the amount of damping, regardless of angle.

Thats what the air hole is there for.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:50 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Cypress, thats what I'm thinking... but I'd be pretty sure the damping remains the same on both compression and extension.

Ie it would increse the amount of damping, regardless of angle.

Thats what the air hole is there for.
Actually, the more surface area you have in the tube, the more dampening you get, therefore a tube with the outside ballcups swept forward, will have more of the plunger in the tubes as the suspension compresses for and aft. That's what creates the added dampening. Trust me, I've tried cars both ways, and you can feel the difference.
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:16 PM   #89
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Hello All,

My CRC CK3.2
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Old 04-28-2005, 06:33 PM   #90
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heres mine i just traded for.i am still working on it...will be putting my quantum in as soon as i get it back from associated but this thing is fast...
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