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Old 02-01-2007, 11:50 PM   #1306
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yep...

if you need setup`s send a mail.
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:28 AM   #1307
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what tamiya shock pistons u running ?
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:35 PM   #1308
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kyosho have a few more parts for the stallion which should be available in the next couple of weeks.

TFW109 aluminium spur gear adaptor.
TFW110 aluminium sway bar mounts.

and for people running the tf5 shaft car there will also be an aluminium spur gear adaptor part #TFW052.
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Old 02-05-2007, 12:57 AM   #1309
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Default starter setup for rubber on carpet

I'm after an initial setup for the stallion. Running on high grip carpet, with cs-22 rubber. At the moment the car is undrivable, spinning around on the slightest steering input.

thank you
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:48 AM   #1310
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Run with CS-27 and JB Blue inserts... CS-22 are too soft...

greetz

PS: The Car are very easy to drive with HPI Springs.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:02 AM   #1311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrichards
I'm after an initial setup for the stallion. Running on high grip carpet, with cs-22 rubber. At the moment the car is undrivable, spinning around on the slightest steering input.

thank you
where is your dual rate set?
add all the uptravel u can in the rear
wheel base: set it to where u only have 1mm shim at each end of the car.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:24 AM   #1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrichards
I'm after an initial setup for the stallion. Running on high grip carpet, with cs-22 rubber. At the moment the car is undrivable, spinning around on the slightest steering input.

thank you
is it possible you could have some binding going on somewhere> Seized bearings,etc...
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:35 AM   #1313
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I agree, sounds like something is mechanically wrong if the car is looping around with any steering input.

More droop will help tame the car though, unscrew the shock ends by a couple of mm all round. Otherwise stock setting seems pretty good to me.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:35 AM   #1314
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I can't change the tyres, rules of the championship

Nothing is binding.

Will try the spacer settings and I've thought about those HPi springs as the standard kit ones seem way to hard (possabley default setting is for foam racing ?? )
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:00 PM   #1315
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I have a awesome setup i use on high grip tracks, mainly with LRP VTEC27 but ive tried it with CS22's too.
Feel free to try it.
http://www.home.no/bergfeldt/Stallio...feldtalun1.pdf

I see i used some swedish jibberish on the sheet..
Use the middle hole on the front shock tower and cover 75% of front tires with the used additive...
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:37 PM   #1316
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Check the rear tires rubbing on the ball cup. At the first Florida state race it took me forever, along with others looking at the car, to finnally find out that was all that was doing it.

Shaved the ball cups down and perfect ride after that.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:18 AM   #1317
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Default further investigation

i've been looking at this car now untill i'm almost blind. I noticed the ball cups were close to the inside of the wheel so i dremmel'd a bit off. What I eventually found to be the cause of the spinning is simple in what's happening but confusing as to why it is this way. The drive shaft on the left rear is slighly coming out of the diff half, causing that wheel to lock up.
It appears that either the drive shaft or diff half is not long enough. The really confusing part is this. THe picture on the box shows the front diff set to the right, main belt running on the speedo/reciever/servo side and the rear belt/diff to the left (as seen from the front)
The instructions show to build it the other way, pictures of cars at the DHI cup show it built the same as the box, promo shots show it the way of the instructions ! Just which side are the diffs ment to be ? Would swopping them over just cause the right side shaft to come out of the diff half instead ?? All very confusing

Thanks for that setup too.
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:18 AM   #1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrichards
i've been looking at this car now untill i'm almost blind. I noticed the ball cups were close to the inside of the wheel so i dremmel'd a bit off. What I eventually found to be the cause of the spinning is simple in what's happening but confusing as to why it is this way. The drive shaft on the left rear is slighly coming out of the diff half, causing that wheel to lock up.
It appears that either the drive shaft or diff half is not long enough. The really confusing part is this. THe picture on the box shows the front diff set to the right, main belt running on the speedo/reciever/servo side and the rear belt/diff to the left (as seen from the front)
The instructions show to build it the other way, pictures of cars at the DHI cup show it built the same as the box, promo shots show it the way of the instructions ! Just which side are the diffs ment to be ? Would swopping them over just cause the right side shaft to come out of the diff half instead ?? All very confusing

Thanks for that setup too.
I tried to flip the diff and for me the 1way and U can't do it the belt rubs the servo mount so the pic's we see r must have some other chassis .... be sure you have the right dog bone in the front and rear left/right the front is 43mm and the rear is 40mm
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:09 PM   #1319
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Check out Cyrul's prototype at the Bird's. The bulkheads are made out of woven carbon fiber! This thing is unreal!

Last edited by KyLayfield; 10-03-2008 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:00 PM   #1320
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Lightbulb car

same car as the novak
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