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Old 01-21-2007, 04:46 PM   #1276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
Oh, I thought you said they did work, my bad.

Well back to the drawing board, I am going to use some other OEM's plastic on the car.

Stay tuned.

-A
the caster block's WORK not the other parts unless u get with Tim J
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:29 AM   #1277
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Talking ti rods

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Originally Posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

Just want to post a quick note we have more TF-5 Stallion parts listed online. Belts and pulleys and some more hop-ups back in stock

Steve Wang
can U find a Ti-tirod set for the car or Red ti-rods ?
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:10 PM   #1278
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Default Blades? Sleeves?

Has anyone found a replacement Blade to replace the plastic ones for the alum diff and spools? I keep breaking them and the spool follows directly behind that.

Also has anyone found metal sleeves for the plastic spools and diffs? So they dont spread open?

Thanks
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:08 PM   #1279
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TFW001-01

C-Joint adaptor

Due in stock in approx 2-3 weeks or sooner.
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:36 PM   #1280
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hope this helps..

Quote:
Originally Posted by tones
to bullet proof the plastic spool..

Yokomo ZS-501R Diff Joint Ring For MR-4BCS Front Diff

besides the color it is as if it was made for the kyosho.

then you need to bullet proof the center adapter otherwise it breaks where the hex pushes in on the side opposite to the pulley.

there are 2 ways of doing this.

#1 put the plastic sleeve close up against the pulley and use the red aluminium sleeve as a brace on the outside. i think you'll need to use a shim or two to stop the bearing from rubbing without filing a bevel on it.

#2 (the method i use) use the silver sleeve for the tf-5 that comes in the diff rebuild kit. cut it to the same size as the plastic sleeve and bevel the edges with a file so that it doesnt bind up on the bearing.

the only other problem i have had with the car is the motor shifting on tracks where breaks are used from high speed. have fixed for the most part by making up some slotted aluminium inserts to replace the o-rings in the motor plate (basically turns it into a standard style motor plate).
i think yokomo have discontinued that part number but still sell the same thing under a new one.
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:08 AM   #1281
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Gday Guys
Just have had my TF-5 SD Built , Would anyone be so kind and Help me out with a Good Starting Set-up with Rubber Tyres

Thanx in Advance ...

Skip
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Old 01-25-2007, 04:16 AM   #1282
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Kit setup is pretty much spot on, all I did was dial in a bit more droop by lengthening the shocks (7 on the gauge front, 5 on the gauge rear).
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:36 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw92656
TFW001-01

C-Joint adaptor

Due in stock in approx 2-3 weeks or sooner.
That is the part I am trying to replace.

Also thanks tones, I will use that for the sleeve.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:17 AM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
Kit setup is pretty much spot on, all I did was dial in a bit more droop by lengthening the shocks (7 on the gauge front, 5 on the gauge rear).
7 and 5 less uptravle than 2 or 3 right ? what guage r u useing
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:46 AM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
Kit setup is pretty much spot on, all I did was dial in a bit more droop by lengthening the shocks (7 on the gauge front, 5 on the gauge rear).
Cheers
That Helps I will leave it at that and go from there ...
Looking forward to Trying it ..
Thanx for that ..

Skip
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:11 PM   #1286
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Skip are you running rubbers on carpet? If so I have a high traction setup and a low traction setup that work good. edit your sig say's permanent onroad track.

But really the kit setup is pretty damn good as is. Just add more up travel as stated earlier. About 2-3mm over ride height.
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Old 01-25-2007, 04:31 PM   #1287
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Skip runs on outdoor asphalt I'm the one building his car
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:17 AM   #1288
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Hey
I`m the only one which drives the Stallion in Switzerland...
I have some Setup Sheets in PDF. If you need Setups, mail me greetz Hagi

PS: Only rubber tires
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:29 AM   #1289
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Has anyone played with the ackerman holes on the steering hubs? My SD is using the inside holes on the hubs. What will moving them to the outer hole give me. Less ackerman? I remember changing the steering hub holes on my 05 xray when the car would traction roll, but I can't remember which hole did what and I can't seem to find my setup notes.

Also what would adding a shim under the steering hub hole do? And what about removing the spacer on the rack?

My problem is whenever the track becomes high grip, my car seems to scrub too much speed in the middle of the corner. If I stiffen the car up to make it roll less, it makes is worse and will traction roll (too stiff). So I end up softening the front springs, leaning the shocks in and lower the roll centers. Now it won't traction roll and handles better but it ends up getting slower.

The best thing I've found is to lower the roll center, but keep the stiffer spring on the front with shocks leaned in. I've tried about everything I can think of and the ackerman is the next adjustment. Because the car handles really good, but it just seems to scrub too much.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:31 AM   #1290
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I ususally run the outer/rear hole on my Stallion, it seems to make the car much easier to drive when the grip is high.
Just try and see what happens, it's a 1 minute job
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