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Old 01-16-2007, 12:27 AM   #1216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
Steve can U pm me when U get the new arms and other parts listed on your web site I have a order ready like to save on shipping ...thanks Kevin
Kevin,

The parts are in, and should be on the website tomorrow (couldn't get to it today...it was a long day) but I remember seeing pulleys, and some belts too.

Steve Wang
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:36 AM   #1217
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Default Toe In/Out

I need to have rear toe at 2.5 deg, and front toe at 1.5 deg...what cups/blocks do I use to get those numbers- the instructions are a bit confusing for me.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:12 AM   #1218
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Basically each letter is 0.5 degree difference.

So, for 2.5 degree at the rear I would suggest B-block IN at the front (kit setting I think) and E-block OUT at the rear (I think this is kit setting too or maybe it is F in the kit). The letters are offset so in/out is easy to work out.

For the front, 1.5 degree out would be the D-block OUT.

At the rear you can also mess around with track width, if you ran say F IN at the front and A at the rear you would narrow the car by a few mm.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:39 AM   #1219
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One good pic on Adachi's DHI-car.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:46 AM   #1220
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No HPI arms on that...

I like the 5-cell chassis, neat design. How did Adachi do in the race?
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:51 AM   #1221
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Default toe

Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
I need to have rear toe at 2.5 deg, and front toe at 1.5 deg...what cups/blocks do I use to get those numbers- the instructions are a bit confusing for me.
what I did is take the Kit stock fixed block from the front the 1 that u cant put the black toe pucks in and moved it to the rear so , A in the back of the 2 blocks and D D in ,in the front this setting will pull the arms in to the back of the car it's like having toe in @ the front of the car as well as the back U will need to re-center your wheels because this setting will give you toe out at the Front....hope this helps
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:56 AM   #1222
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Found out that Adachi was in the C, Toni Rheinard was in the B.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:05 AM   #1223
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might sound like stupid question but what are the ajustable track ends for on the front if you get ur front toe from pin holders
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:26 AM   #1224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celtic
might sound like stupid question but what are the ajustable track ends for on the front if you get ur front toe from pin holders
what do u mean pin holders..u talking about the suspension holder bushings they r the only way u can change the track ...max is 190mm
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:51 PM   #1225
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Does anyone know where you can get some 1/16 thrust balls? Preferably Ceramic or Carbide.

Nevermind, Acer has some.
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Old 01-17-2007, 09:40 PM   #1226
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I have got myself a Kyosho TF-5 SD heading my way , I hope i am Happy with my Purchase
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Old 01-17-2007, 09:56 PM   #1227
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if its anything like the stallion U will be happy
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:25 PM   #1228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VoneSkip
I have got myself a Kyosho TF-5 SD heading my way , I hope i am Happy with my Purchase
Guess that means i've got a build job coming my way soon?
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:48 AM   #1229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
what do u mean pin holders..u talking about the suspension holder bushings they r the only way u can change the track ...max is 190mm
thanks dude makes sense now ran car on carpet rubber tyres at weekend set up front camber 1.5 toe out 0.5 bulk heads flat on chassis 1mm spacer inner top camber link yellow springs no roll bars. rear camber 1.5 bulk heads flat on chassis 3 toe in 1mm spacer inner upper camber link yellow springs no roll bar car was ok but lots of rolling about what do you suggest
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:01 AM   #1230
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Unless the carpet is very low grip or very bumpy, run the anti-roll bars. Makes the car a lot smoother and better balanced.

I normally try and get a decent no roll bar setting, then throw the bars on, always seems to make the car nicer on carpet.
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