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Old 07-14-2006, 03:33 PM   #796
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Im not sure how you work that out chris light speed swallow , as most people in america get paid in dollars, there for its the equivalent to us buying something in pounds, in other words its cheaper for us to import because of the currency rate, but it doesnt work out quite so cheap for those who live in america.

But hey we wont complain about that.
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Old 07-14-2006, 04:16 PM   #797
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Originally Posted by ralph_c
With the discount shown in the shopping cart it comes to about the same amount as a top touring car in England (T2, FT TC4, pro4). The Hot Bodies Surikarn and Yokomo Grainger cars cost the equivalent of $610 and would be more if sold at the RRP! I think it would sell for the price its for sale at there...

WOW the T2 is under $400 all over the place in the states, and the FT TC4,and PRO 4 are less than $300. The most expensive kits I've seen are the 2 special Hot Bodies kits and they are around $460 still less than the Kyosho car, and with the HB ride you get a proven car. I think by the time it goes on sale the price will be around $50 more than the shaft TF-5.
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Old 07-16-2006, 12:22 AM   #798
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Had anonther run at the track today. Last time I had mentioned that the car was well planted with a bit of onpower steer out of the turns. After that I also mentioned that I built the steering wrong because I had carried the assembly from my ZX-5 to the TF-5 which is assembled differently. So I corrected the situation and it resulted in a push I tried dialing in more steering on the radio and it made it more edgy. After that I decided to change it back to my original mistake in the ZX-5 configuration..

What's my next problem? well the car doesn't seem to roll so well off throttle. I figure theres still some resistance in the drivetrain. Does anyone have some suggestions? I'm thinking of using some of that "White Lightning" lube on the gears. Perhaps maybe someone knows some equivalent parts made in Teflon?
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Old 07-16-2006, 01:05 AM   #799
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude
What's my next problem? well the car doesn't seem to roll so well off throttle. I figure theres still some resistance in the drivetrain. Does anyone have some suggestions? I'm thinking of using some of that "White Lightning" lube on the gears. Perhaps maybe someone knows some equivalent parts made in Teflon?
Tamiya Ceramic Grease. THE best gear lubricant, period.
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Old 07-16-2006, 01:24 AM   #800
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How about totally degreasing the bearings and putting a drop of bearing lube in them? Maybe loosen the rear diff as well and run less toe in the rear. Too much toe can result in a pushy car.
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:20 AM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Had anonther run at the track today. Last time I had mentioned that the car was well planted with a bit of onpower steer out of the turns. After that I also mentioned that I built the steering wrong because I had carried the assembly from my ZX-5 to the TF-5 which is assembled differently. So I corrected the situation and it resulted in a push I tried dialing in more steering on the radio and it made it more edgy. After that I decided to change it back to my original mistake in the ZX-5 configuration..

What's my next problem? well the car doesn't seem to roll so well off throttle. I figure theres still some resistance in the drivetrain. Does anyone have some suggestions? I'm thinking of using some of that "White Lightning" lube on the gears. Perhaps maybe someone knows some equivalent parts made in Teflon?
YR4Dude,

I'm not sure which layout they have right now at SoCal (If I remember correctly, you're local right?), but I'm pretty sure it's the same one from Thursday practice. If that's the case, you can try a couple of things to the front of the car to get more turn in:

I changed the front spring from the kit blue to the option Yellow medium spring (one step softer) and I also took away the from kick up. The instruction have you put a "3 tab" block spacer underneath the front front block and a "2 tab" block spacer underneath the front rear block. I changed it to "2 tab" underneath the front front block and it takes away the kick up. The last thing I did was move the upper shock mount out one position. All these changes are in effort to get the car to dive a bit more and transfer more weight to the front of the car. The shock position change should allow the front end to be more responsive in left right transition changes. Also, make sure the tires a relatively new, as for SoCal new tires (or newer tires) makes a world of difference.

On the drivetrain, I would probably give it more time to break in. I put a total of 16 packs through the TF-5 over two thursday practices and it seems like it is finally freeing up (and I think it still have a bit more to go) If you're in the area next Thursday, I'll be at SoCal practicing till they close, so feel free to stop by my pits and I would be more than willing to take a look at your car

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Old 07-16-2006, 03:25 PM   #802
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I ran mine yesterday box stock , did about 9 packs under really hot weather .. (like 90+ F).

- Stock baseline setting is very good for outdoor.
- Drivetrain definitely frees up considerably by breaking in.
It s a combinaison of bearings and also the parts settling in.
- Stock shocks are AWESOME ! up to par with tamiya, if not better. Hold up very well after extended use. no spring rub, alignment is really good.
- anodisation on the car is better than on tam or others in that it scatches way less.. probably a bit thicker.
- diff is hurting for some carbide balls all around, as it s just "ok" in my book after a few runs. It does the job though, new rings and carbide balls would do wonders.

Weaker points so far:
- Ballcups in steering assembly are the weak point ("fuse" part). The tread is a little short and i had the ballcup pop out (on impact!! ). replaced with a tam fluorine one that i threaded through
- The end cups rub a bit also at that spot on the stock setting in the toe blocks. (nothing major)
- Shim the front very tight because my front one way and input gear are visibly worn from my loose shimming (=totally my fault, did not shim per instructions)
(was running a Novak 5.5 so there WAS power though).


Overall, an excellent car, remarkably solid after 9 runs, extremely good quality on the swing shafts, no wear.
No play at all on the suspension anwhere, all while really stiff.. I love it !

I m sold totally love the car.

Last edited by Patriiick; 07-17-2006 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:16 AM   #803
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Ran mine for the first time on tarmac yesterday at our clubs annual outdoor meeting (on the venue's car park).

Again, I was really pleased, the car has loads of fundamental corner speed and great balance. Able to mix it with the brushless cars while running 19T (losing SO much distance down the straights, making it up again around the twisties).

This is running essentially the box setup with #350 oil all round, diff in the front and no anti-roll bars.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:05 AM   #804
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was running with 40 all around, one way front.

I tried without rollbars and liked it a bit less, the car somehow felt a bit more twichy.
Took out quicky front kickup to have straight pins also..
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:52 AM   #805
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Does the drivetrain hold up the the constant abuse of brushless power in competitive conditions???
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Old 07-17-2006, 11:44 AM   #806
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if you shim it right (as per the instructions) (= unlike me ), no problem whatsoever !
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:20 AM   #807
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How can i find the instruction manual for this car?
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:36 AM   #808
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I don't think there is one online yet, what info were you looking for?
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:47 AM   #809
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I pre-order the car but i want to know what i am going to dealing with the manual. I made the same think before i owned the Sanwa M11.
Can any of you scan it? or we need to wait from the kyosho site?


Thanks in advance
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:27 AM   #810
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I think the true story is developing, Kyosho doesn't want to be competitive in the Touring car class. If they did, they would build a car to win, not just to copy all the others. BUILD JOSH'S CAR! Put in the hands of the rest of the "team", and win something. Look at the recent world's and the finishes. I believe the one man development team performed better than the "factory backed" team.
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