Tbevofreak

Hi guys,

I was wondering if any of you are having problems to make runtime (5 min) when using 7T or 8T mod with Gp3300 last generation, not 3700
Do you need to use 5mm web armatures? Does it help to run V2's?

I guess you need matched packs with good numbers like 410s+, and charging at 5amps

I hope you'll post your experiences with this type of racing!

Cheers!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

it all depends on the way you gear your motors. We easily make runtime on carpet with 8 turns. Timing and gearing to go with the runtime your battery packs have.
Are you running on asphalt or carpet?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

You need to have good batteries (usually 420+) and a smooth trigger finger to make time with 7 and 8 turn motors. It's easier outside, but it goes for both asphalt and carpet.

Also like Clint said, timing and gearing are very important as well.

Tbevofreak

Thanks guys!

Yeah I forgot to mention gearing and timing, I usually never go above 12° degree timing with 8T and I gear it at 8.6 FDR for large asphalt track
Does it sound correct to you?

I'd like to gear lower (bigger pinion) like 8.2 but then I guess I should go down to 6° timing, I need more top speed

How low can you gear a 8T? I was suprised to see Daisuke at the worlds using 7.96 FDR! That seems a lot! I wonder why...I never was impressed with LRP motors...maybe he was having trouble to keep up with the other's horsepower

Cheers! please keep posting!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

8.2- 8.6 should be about right. What type of motor are you running? Some motors are a lot more picky about how they're geared/timed than others. Like Brian and Clint said, high runtime packs and a smooth throttle finger are key. If you're yanking the throttle as quick as you can, you could be spinning the tires and causing the motor to pull huge amp spikes and killing run time. Also watch your braking. If you use too much brake, you can burn up the motor quickly and that can kill runtime as well.

pheyhoe

Yeah braking is also a killer, it takes alot of power to slow that thing down!

Tbevofreak

The motor I'm running is a corally black high torque, its absolutely dynamite but very power consuming, more than the average 8t, actually I have a Team Paradigm 7T that's much easier and the batteries but also a lot less powerful but more smooth/easier to drive

Its weird but they don't seem to be so popular in the US, have you heard of them?Corally black motors rock!

Cheers!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Corally motors aren't very common here in the states, at least as far as I've ever seen. I'm not familiar with that motor so I can't really say what how they should really be timed. You may want to check the Corally USA website and see if you can get some info from there.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

The latest Corally motors are really good but like Jon said not a lot of people use them.

At our local track (120x70 asphalt). We gear our 7's at 9.0 FDR and 8's at 8.2 to 8.6 FDR. You had better have good batts (420+ @30A) if you run 7's. With an 8 you need 400+ to make if if you are a fast driver. I am a lap off the pace so I can make time with 390's...lol!

PW just tested some really good 3700's from Fusion and finished a 5min qual with a 7x1 set at 18deg of timing and still had 51 sec of battery at 30A!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I didn't know you were running Corally motors. They have their own design don't they? Not a teardown of another motor.

MattW

Must admit some of the stuff that i have seen from Corally was actually very efficient. They do a brush called "on Road brush" that seems very very efficient. I know their 12th guys in the UK run that and are able to run really big gear ratios. Not sure how it is with 6 cell touring though.

We've only just started running unlimited mods in the UK. We are looking at the moment somewhere between 8.2-8.6 for a 7 turn and a little taller for 8 turn. Having said that i am only just able to make time with that on a 7, but my cells have seen better days!!!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The armature blank is made by sagami, so an arm from yokomo, top, or atlas base should work. I've heard they work similar to Ti's but I'll have to double check on that.

-Korey

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I'd think 8.2 would be a little too much for a 7. I'd go more like 8.7-9.0 for the seven. If you don't have really strong cells, I'd probably stick with an 8 and try and be smooth and fast.

tandman

iTrader: (7)

So how would you guys setup a 7X1 DC V2 mod in an XRAY FK05 on an outdoor track that has 140' straight and a nice flowing infield....the layout does change but the straight stays the same. Some times it has a sweeper off of the straight and sometimes a hairpin turn at the end of the straight, so some braking with the last layout. Check out the track at edmontonrc.com/cai/
If I am running SMC IB3600's I don't think runtime should be an issue. What setup on the motor as far as springs, brushes and timing would you reccomend? Also about a 9.0 FDR?
Thanks....Dwayne Flodell

Jeff Brown

I would start gearing at 9.75 with 12 deg of timing. If you can get the EDGE sprints, use them. Otherwise standard sprints. Run the HARD springs as well. Perhaps go up half a tooth (48p) depending on how it feels.

Those track dimensions sound close to the Worlds track, so I would start around there.

Jeff