dragnse7en

No sense to me on that weird tie-strap plastic thing, trying to make up for the loss of what has been cut out. Pointless it seems to me . . . but if it works good for the car, and works for you, then game on.

Speaking from personal speed records of 80mph plus, the best bet on that ass end is to shim out the suspension hinge pins w/ 0.1, 0.3mm x 3mm shims. My kit came with a few, and after I cut out the same spot for my MMP, it totally solved the problem on my end.

I did not mill out that low as seen in your pic, even on my new CF lower deck. Make sure you've got at least 2.5mm thickness or more and do not cut thru the bottom plate of the chassis . . . . .

Impressive tho to see that others have finally followed my proven work tho

Hey - it works great, right?

RielTime Racing

The weird tie-strap plastic thing is the motor sensor wire. It is zip-tied so that it does not go into the rear wheel under suspension movement. The sensor wire is actually routed into the center hole on the Tamiya K3 (see page 13 in TA05 manual) and plugs conveniently into the motor. The K3 is also shimmed out a little bit further too. I like this mod so that the sensor wire is protected in the motor and does not fall out if the car gets side swiped or put into the rails.

Suspension hinge pins have been shimmed out, it has no relevance on the mounting of the Mamba Max Pro.

The picture is kind of deceiving as to how far it was cut down. It's actually only cut to the very beginning of the base plate. Been running this set-up since May 2010 and works tremendous!

dragnse7en

Okay - thanks that clears things up. I run the sensorless and haven't really seen a sensored motor installed.

I use Shoe Goo instead of double-sided tape. I decided to do that since there's a lot of lightening holes in the lower CF deck, and now dirt won't stick to the exposed surfaces like tape would.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

just figured id post up my beauty..

dragnse7en

Just when I thought I had some blue bling - nice.

Now I'm jealous. Still waiting for #53990 to get out of "temp out of stock" status. TamiyaUSA emailed me of the restock for that part and I want at least three sets. Their web site sold out in 9 days and I could have bought what I wanted but I blew it off and laughed at the speed that they sold em. A hot item!!!

I use some metric AE fasteners on my car, especially when it comes to strength. Instead, I got the Ti screw kit, and that was a plus/ minus experience for me.

Some screw sizes that came in the kit were overboard extra, while other screw sizes were missing VS what the kit's instructions called for.

I like to use the TC4 3mm screw parts, etc.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

what bodies are you running on your ta05?
seems like a lot of them rub the front shock tower quite a bit

dragnse7en

Not directly. You will need a bunch of spacers to get them to fit right. Just buy the reversible suspension kit instead of buying everything seperately and paying more in the long run.

dragnse7en

The Xray T3 is a nice car, and is built much better than a stock TA05 series car and even an AE TC5 series. Any R series from the TA05 line (and the MS) can make an Xray driver nervous.

Good luck with your racing - off-season, if you want to, please download the TA05 IFS-R manual. That is a great resource for choosing option parts, and the IFS-R is the true bridge between original TA05s and the V2s.

dragnse7en

Mine didn't come with a body but HPI 190mm and Parma 190mm bodies work fine for me. I guess I would avoid bodes with low front hoods, like the new Honda NSX body that's coming soon. Avoid bodies shaped similiar to the Ford GT, the Lotus Elise (or sport), Saleen S7, and anything else similiar.

If you truely love those bodies and hate the damper stay rubbing away the nice paint job you've created, you can always MOD the front end of your ride in the IFS configuration.

DOH! I didn't answer the question. I run an HPI 190mm RX-7FD3S for racing and a Parma 190mm 1969 Z-28 Camaro body for fun.

minicooper

iTrader: (5)

Thanks! Appreciate the reply

dragnse7en

My setting sheet, showing what I've got for next Sunday's race (10/17/2010).

dragnse7en

Steering maintenance.

Please add to that thread if you also have a trick

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...s-secrets.html

liquidgenesis

some good looking chassis' on here.

here's one of mine running a mamba max with a cm36-9000kv.



absolutely nothing left stock on it... i literally have another ta05 i can build.

Mean_Evo

Hey guys,

I read through some of the pages here but since there are over 700 pages and I don't have that kind of time + searching on google, I have a few questions that I hope someone here could help me with.

Just wondering if the Tamiya 46mm universal shafts part #53847 will work on the front and back of a ta05 Version 2? Or will the rears require the 44mm shafts part #54077 with the tb-03 wheel axels part #54076? Also, I read somewhere that there is an issue with the rears? By that I mean you need more parts? It wasn't clear if they were refering to a ta05 or the ta05 v2.

Thanks,

liquidgenesis

i don't have a V2 yet, but i do know it has narrower arms than TA05 which uses 46mm shafts or the ta05-r, ifs-r which uses 48mm shafts. but do go out and buy the 44mm just yet. just letting you know what i know.

*edit*
was just on the tamiya website and found this page for ta05v2 upgrades... don't see any 44mm swing shafts but a few 46mm ones.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcp...=desc&offset=1

which would make sense since 44mm are for tb03 which uses a much wider bulkhead and diff outdrives.. I once tried to use a tbevo5 outdrives for my ta05 and noticed they were a good 4mm wider than the ta05 so the bearings mount were further out than the bulkhead allowed.